@Marcel posted:
Thanks Marcel, where did you purchase that piece?
My body supplier was able to supply it.
Next project will be a new cooling shroud for the Type4 engine. A DTM would be nice, but would be ridiculously expensive due to shipping and taxes before it is here. And I like to make things...
To evaluate my design, I will place ring-type thermocouples underneath the spark plugs. I made this housing for the gauges. It will not be part of the dash, but it is a plug-it-in-when-you-need-it thing.
Have you started the engine with those thermocouples hooked up? I had an interference issue that I just couldn't solve. The displays were only working at idle, so I scrapped the whole thing.
My advice is to get some old-fashioned mechanical airplane type CHT gauges.
Or...............One CHT, four thermocouples and one rotary switch. I have all of it for sale if anyone is interested. All Dakota Digital equipment..............Bruce
Thanks for the headsup, I haven't installed it on the engine yet, because I need to remove a lot of stuff, and I want to drive now. But once installed, I will check its function before bolting everything back up! I'll report the results!
Started on the new cooling shroud (Type 4 engine). Made a 3D model and printed it in many sections. It took a looooong time. Next step will be bonding all parts together, cover the whole thing in a thin layer of woven cloth, and then filler, sand, filler, sand, filler, sand (repeat until fingers are worn), cover in 2K paint, ensure it is really glossy, take multi-piece moulds, and then finally laminate the real thing….
Post a screen view of your computer model, please. Quiet a project!
Most AMAZING !!!!! Please Post your progress Marcel !...................Bruce
RustyTubs used to sell this corrective back seat fiberglass piece for $895.
I can't really tell - their home page says 404 not found but all the inventory pages are up with prices. They moved from GA to NV a few years ago. Even in GA they were hard to get a hold of. Seems like they had parts in both places. I think some one said they had a facebook page with owners contact info. Prices seem reasonable today - I thought high a few years ago. Could be like the closed gas station with 99 cent/gal gas still advertised!
356@rustytubs.com
I have something better than the screenshot: I glued everything together. You can see the areas where I had difficulties in modelling it in CAD, but decide to fix it in real life, instead of digitally….. sometimes that works better (for me). Now I need to reinforce it, make it smooth, and pull a mould.
Do you slice it in half and make a front and back mold? That was a complicated puzzle to piece together
Sometimes I like to fancy myself a fabricator. Then a thread like this comes along, and I realize that I'm a shaved ape with tools and a nice garage.
This Marcel guy is a freaking genius. Stupid-cool stuff here.
OUTSTANDING!
Stan, to quote one of the "Die Hard" movies: "You're a Timex watch in a digital age".
Me too. To me, CAD means what Ed and others do: cardboard-aided design. I measure stuff, scratch it, center-punch it, use pencils and Sharpies. The whole concept of ones and zeros in a file is not for me. I understand it, I just don't know how to do it.
And Marcel, I'll echo Stan's comment: OUTSTANDING!
@WOLFGANG
I intend to make a flange around the perimeter, make one half of the mould up to that flange, remove flange, and then make the other half. Probably easier said then done, but we'll see. Never let a dead thing win.
Thanks for the kind words guys. Nice to see appreciation for these efforts.
@Marcel posted:@WOLFGANG
I intend to make a flange around the perimeter, make one half of the mould up to that flange, remove flange, and then make the other half.
This is exactly how it's done at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in their reproductive mold making shop. I took two semesters with them when I was in school. It was a graduate course and I cheated to get in it as an underclassman. One of the best classes I ever had in anything.
Go Marcel!!!
Marcel.........Could you use liquid rubber to make the mold ? Perhaps support it with a fiberglass backing ? The rubber, when hardened, would be flexible enough to remove from the inside of the casting...........Bruce
@aircooled posted:Marcel.........Could you use liquid rubber to make the mold ?”
Flex Seal….. if you can make a boat float out of it then surely you could do this!!😁
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