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Next project will be a new cooling shroud for the Type4 engine. A DTM would be nice, but would be ridiculously expensive due to shipping and taxes before it is here. And I like to make things...

To evaluate my design, I will place ring-type thermocouples underneath the spark plugs. I made this housing for the gauges. It will not be part of the dash, but it is a plug-it-in-when-you-need-it thing.
721EF203-62EA-41EF-9879-371BCB49372E

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Started on the new cooling shroud (Type 4 engine). Made a 3D model and printed it in many sections. It took a looooong time. Next step will be bonding all parts together, cover the whole thing in a thin layer of woven cloth, and then filler, sand, filler, sand, filler, sand (repeat until fingers are worn), cover in 2K paint, ensure it is really glossy, take multi-piece moulds, and then finally laminate the real thing….

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I can't really tell - their home page says 404 not found but all the inventory pages are up with prices.  They moved from GA to NV a few years ago.  Even in GA they were hard to get a hold of.  Seems like they had parts in both places.  I think some one said they had a facebook page with owners contact info.  Prices seem reasonable today - I thought high a few years ago.  Could be like the closed gas station with 99 cent/gal gas still advertised!

rustytubs.com

356@rustytubs.com

Stan, to quote one of the "Die Hard" movies: "You're a Timex watch in a digital age".

Me too. To me, CAD means what Ed and others do: cardboard-aided design. I measure stuff, scratch it, center-punch it, use pencils and Sharpies. The whole concept of ones and zeros in a file is not for me. I understand it, I just don't know how to do it.

And Marcel, I'll echo Stan's comment: OUTSTANDING!

Last edited by DannyP
@Marcel posted:

@WOLFGANG
I intend to make a flange around the perimeter, make one half of the mould up to that flange, remove flange, and then make the other half.

This is exactly how it's done at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in their reproductive mold making shop. I took two semesters with them when I was in school. It was a graduate course and I cheated to get in it as an underclassman. One of the best classes I ever had in anything.

Go Marcel!!!

This is exactly how it's done at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in their reproductive mold making shop. I took two semesters with them when I was in school. It was a graduate course and I cheated to get in it as an underclassman. One of the best classes I ever had in anything.

Go Marcel!!!

@aircooled posted:

Marcel.........Could you use liquid rubber to make the mold ?  Perhaps support it with a fiberglass backing ? The rubber, when hardened, would be flexible enough to remove from the inside of the casting...........Bruce

Umm, exactly what are you guys making? Sex toys?

This two part rubber  used in my moulds above are used in the movie industry to make all kinds of props. It comes in different densities and is easy to use.  I use ball bearings to form my mould alignment pins because they are perfect for ease of mould separation.  It's way better than Flex-Seal.  Less expensive too, due to the volume required for most projects.

I have painted this rubber onto a pattern in several layers then painted fiber glass resin over that.  I apply layers of fiber glass  for rigidness/support of the rubber layer. When rigid enough and supported with ribs at strategic areas, I remove it from the pattern by splitting the mould between the flanges I made on the fiber glass layer.............Bruce

@aircooled posted:

This two part rubber  used in my moulds above are used in the movie industry to make all kinds of props. It comes in different densities and is easy to use.  I use ball bearings to form my mould alignment pins because they are perfect for ease of mould separation.  It's way better than Flex-Seal.  Less expensive too, due to the volume required for most projects.

I have painted this rubber onto a pattern in several layers then painted fiber glass resin over that.  I apply layers of fiber glass  for rigidness/support of the rubber layer. When rigid enough and supported with ribs at strategic areas, I remove it from the pattern by splitting the mould between the flanges I made on the fiber glass layer.............Bruce

Nice skills!

Stick with what you know Marcel.  By the way, I only sand the mould surface down to 1000 grit then go with the Maguires Mould release (3 coats). This leaves the surface of your finished product with a "matte finish". The matte finish can then be sanded with more 1000 grit to remove all the mould release and allows a good surface for spraying on what color gel coat you choose. For coloring the resin I use any 100% acrylic artists paint found at an art supply store.  It doesn't take a lot of it to get dramatic results either.

@Marcel I'll have to agree with everyone, pretty cool car.

I do have one question though. What are you running for tires?

I only ask because a few of us have been running, or going to be running, Vredestein Sportrac 5 tires. As this is a company from your part of the world, I was just curious what sizes are available to you? From what I understand, this company is not sure if they're going to keep on making, or importing to us, sizes that we'd be able to use.

Just wondering.

Carlos

BTW, I'm going to get mine mounted tomorrow.

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