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Mat, I think the usual method involves bracing the rear section using diagonal sections of tubing. I haven't done that, but I know lots of folks have.

If you're wanting to use sheet metal, does that indicate you're not going to want to weld? Perfectly understandable, but probably harder to research here.
All I ever do is jack the rear body so that the vertical door gaps are as close to correct as possible, then drill 5/16" holes through the 2x2 steel and the fiberglass inner wheel well panels, applying some adhesive between the 2x2 and the panels, (4) evenly spaced 5/16" bolts on each side w/ fender washers and nyloc nuts. As a plus you can weld in piece of angle or tube steel on an angle from the top of the vertical 2x2 to the horizontal 2x2.
I (OK Shubbie aka Dale helped me) extended the 2x2" post up behind door with piece of 2x2 angle iron (about 12" long) and then used a piece of flat 1 1/2 steel to angle down and catch the back. Removed old rivets (several holes had elongated) first and when done applied liquid adhesive and new stainless steel thru bolts. Took maybe 2 hours. There is a tread or two here with pictures that helped greatly.
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