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Follow up on changing the front end - no R&P

PCHPCH Supporting Member
Put on my long sleeved t-shirt, flannel shirt, down filled vest and poly hooded jacket, my stocking cap and ski gloves Thursday morning and drove the Great Pumpkin to Peek Performance. Sean agreed that I was really into overkill. So:

a. A new TRW steering box, b. four (4) new ball joints, c. Sean called and said the lower control arm was trashed in a previous life - it wiggles when pulled on, d. check the discs and pads on the front and remove a leaf from the top beam.

Then: See if he can sort out the rear suspension so it will have some but doesn't change the ride height.

And then: A complete "check it out" while up in the air - you all know: fuel lines, throttle cable, clutch cable, etc.

Finally: a. Figure out what exhaust header will fit under the rear apron, still allow valve adjustments and accomodate a new muffler set-up similar to what we now have. b. Try a tow bar out on the front to see if I can get away with one. Not to tow to Carlisle but only if the engine breaks or I misplace my ski gloves, stocking hat etc. Yah, I inow I should move out to live with my son and daughter-in-law in Santa Cruz, CA.

Paul

1992 CMC(Speedster)

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PCHPCH Supporting Member
Put on my long sleeved t-shirt, flannel shirt, down filled vest and poly hooded jacket, my stocking cap and ski gloves Thursday morning and drove the Great Pumpkin to Peek Performance. Sean agreed that I was really into overkill. So:

a. A new TRW steering box, b. four (4) new ball joints, c. Sean called and said the lower control arm was trashed in a previous life - it wiggles when pulled on, d. check the discs and pads on the front and remove a leaf from the top beam.

Then: See if he can sort out the rear suspension so it will have some but doesn't change the ride height.

And then: A complete "check it out" while up in the air - you all know: fuel lines, throttle cable, clutch cable, etc.

Finally: a. Figure out what exhaust header will fit under the rear apron, still allow valve adjustments and accomodate a new muffler set-up similar to what we now have. b. Try a tow bar out on the front to see if I can get away with one. Not to tow to Carlisle but only if the engine breaks or I misplace my ski gloves, stocking hat etc. Yah, I inow I should move out to live with my son and daughter-in-law in Santa Cruz, CA.

Paul
PCHPCH Supporting Member
Gee Dave I don't know. I was under the impression that was the right thing to do. When I suggested it based on something I read, Peek Performance agreed with that. The beam is NOT adjustable so this is a modification that some one suggested on a previous discussion.
Maybe I should have looked into it further what with all the leaves accumulating in my yard. It is supposed to soften the ride in front.

Paul
Gordon NicholsGordon NicholsMassachusetts 1993 CMC Supporting Member
The positions of the hockey pucks in the center of the beams (which hold the torsion leaves in place) are not at the same attitude. In a stock (no adjuster) beam, the top tube is actually exerting a little more downward force on the trailing arms than the bottom tube, so removing a leaf on the top beam will soften the ride more than removing a bottom tube leaf.

However! All of this is predicated on NOT having adjusters on either of the beam tubes. If you have adjusters, then it depends on whether you have one or two, which is the dominant beam (which one provides more downforce) and then you remove leaves from the dominant one.

At least that's what we used to do when autocrossing dune buggies.

BTW: You're living in the wrong part of the 'States. If I had my Speedster here, I could have been riding in 74 degree weather today.

I'm jus' sayin.....

gn
P pauleric
Paul,

just finished buttuning up my front end last night. It was built turnkey at Thunder Ranch. The top tube had all 6 of the smaller bars removed. I just removes two from the lower tube. In order to get my car to sit correctly i have to turn the adjusters up (raise the front end) a good bit. It gave me a very stiff ride. Im hoping its better, because i am not pulling the front end apart again until something else is needed. Feel free to get in touch if you have any questions.
P pauleric
Paul,

Stopped by Peak Performance. Sean said your ride is still there, ball joints stiffened up when pressed in. This happened to the Meyle I installed in September. Purchased MOOG, night and day right off the block. They were more expensive... but would have been much cheaper in the end had i purchased them initially.

Thanks for calling me out Dave! :)

Also, just took my car on a 400 mile test drive to Williamsburg VA and back. The front end was perfect. The ride has never been so good. 4 large torsion leaves in the top, 4 large and 4 small in the lower tube. I also had a bent control arm. Was probably hanging the suspension up.
FM Former Member
Paul, my helmet is an authentic, European-theater Air Corps helmet with RAF goggles on it, and Teresa's is a Navy-issue, Pacific-theater helmet with repro goggles.
A repro helmet might cost anywhere between $60 and $100, but the real deal is a bit north of that. I do know a collector, if you want me to put you in touch with a guy who can get you one.
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