20190514_10144420190514_101429_HDR20190514_101354_HDR20190514_10133620190511_20042920190511_200413This trailer was originally built in the late 70s for a Formula Vee.

I bought it a year ago and completely went through it.

New 205/75R15 radial trailer tires and steel wheels, including spare and mount.

New Dexter 3500 lb. 4" drop axle with self-adjusting electric brakes. The brakes are a really great safety feature for lighter tow vehicles.

New Dexter leaf springs and hangers. Axle is more rearward than most trailers for weight bias of our cars. Tongue weight of 180 pounds with my Spyder on it. Trailer weighs 700 pounds empty, so up to a 2800 pound load.

New tie-down points attached through frame members.

All new wire harness and 7-pin plug. All new LED lighting and reflectors. All soldered and marine heat-shrinks. No grounds to trailer frame, grounds are carried through to each light fixture.

Custom lockable rack for 6-foot aluminum ramps. Ramps store under car. Front jack rotates 90 degrees to get out of the way. Trailer rides very low, and tracks beautifully.

Removable hand-crank winch for easy loading.

$2000

2016 Vintage Spyder Jake Raby 2165 type1

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Original Post

If Lane were to buy it,  perhaps someone could meet Danny and pick it up,  I in turn meet that person half way somewhere , then I borrow the trailer for 5 - 6 weeks time span as I have a couple of things going up to PA from WV for paint then I could meet Lane half way in upper NC somewhere, somehow - some time~

Darn it @ALB, you'll have to drill some holes in the left side for me, OK? And it's about 250 on the tongue weight loaded, I remembered wrong before.

If Lane is serious, I'm sure we can work something out. Michelle and I bought a Dodge crew cab and will be purchasing a new enclosed trailer. That's the only reason I'm selling it. In addition to Spyder ferrying duties, it will serve as a Spyder garage for when I'm working on other people's cars. 

You see, I've retired from Verizon as of last week. An official announcement is coming of my new part-time business. I'm going to fix and upgrade aircooled cars, specifically replicas. I'll need the garage to be wide open.

Lane, we're probably picking a trailer up from the factory in Pearson Georgia, and could ferry the empty one down most of the way.

Rick, I'm looking at 8.5' x 16' V-front. Payload of up to 5000, so I can haul whatever in addition to my Spyder.

Dave, the ramps are from Harbor Freight, 6' long, and can handle 1200 pounds, which works out OK since only 1 axle is on them at a time. They are nice and light aluminum, and come hinged together, but I drilled out the rivets holding the hinges on and separated them. I added a couple bolts sticking through each top end to hang into loops on the end of the trailer. They stay in place and are easy to stow under the car. You might want to add some more metal to stiffen them if you need more capacity.

Lane, meet you halfway at Phil's house in Charlottesville?

Congrats on your retirement, Danny! And all the best in your new venture. I hope Christmas went well, say hi to Michelle for me and Happy New year! We haven't chatted in a while- give me a shout one evening when you've got a little time. Al

Have you looked at www.vnosetrailers.com? They look like they are close to you. I spoke with them on my way home from Albany last month, they seem to be accommodating to changes and upgrades.  They use 2 different manufacturers in Georgia, one is definitely built better than the other.  I haul from Long Island out to Indiana every summer for a bike show, and my last trailer I had built with a 5 1/2’ interior height.  Low Haulers like this cut through the air better, as they are close to the same height as pickup trucks.

Whatever you do, do not use Kristi Trailer in Canastota, NY!  While they built a really nice trailer, they have basically shut down operations, but are still taking deposits.  I, along with several others, are in the middle of legal action against them to have our deposit returned.

 

Using an enclosed trailer as an overflow garage is good business. If you do it, wire some heat into it (small electric heater or something similar). Storing in a trailer over one winter did more damage to the rubber trim seals on my car than 15 winters in a heated garage.

I wish you well in your new endeavor @DannyP.

Stan Galat posted:

Using an enclosed trailer as an overflow garage is good business. If you do it, wire some heat into it (small electric heater or something similar). Storing in a trailer over one winter did more damage to the rubber trim seals on my car than 15 winters in a heated garage.

I wish you well in your new endeavor @DannyP.

Rubber just goes nasty after many years but being outside or near outside certainly kills it.  On my other IM the rubber gaskets on the mirrors went and the car wasn't even 5 years old.  It was a pain. 

A cousin of mine used 3inch styrofoam to make a box to house his Harley. He added an incandescent bulb with a thermostat set at a reasonable temp and a plexiglass peek a boo window 12 x 12 size.

His bike has chrome which looks like new after 10 years.  

 

DannyP posted:

Thanks Rick. I'll be sure not to call Kristi. Did not know about V-nose. There are plenty of manufacturers to choose from all over creation! Bewildering actually.

Stan thank you. Good info.

There are certainly a lot of trailer builders.  Many of them use z channel, hat channel, c channel.  I wouldn't want anything but box tubing.  Also, all the cheap trailers use .024 skin.  That stuff has more waves than an ocean.  Get at least .030, better .040.  Also, pay attention to the spacing of the cross members, not just on the floor, but the walls and roof also.  Another thing to consider is a bar latch installed on the side door, over the RV style door.  Much more secure, imho.

LI-Rick posted:
DannyP posted:

Thanks Rick. I'll be sure not to call Kristi. Did not know about V-nose. There are plenty of manufacturers to choose from all over creation! Bewildering actually.

Stan thank you. Good info.

There are certainly a lot of trailer builders.  Many of them use z channel, hat channel, c channel.  I wouldn't want anything but box tubing.  Also, all the cheap trailers use .024 skin.  That stuff has more waves than an ocean.  Get at least .030, better .040.  Also, pay attention to the spacing of the cross members, not just on the floor, but the walls and roof also.  Another thing to consider is a bar latch installed on the side door, over the RV style door.  Much more secure, imho.

And get a trailer with a full perimeter frame. Adds cost but the trailer is just that much stronger. You can tell if a trailer has a full perimeter frame if the step on the side of the trailer pulls out from under the trailer versus when you open the door and there is a lower section of floor you step into then up into the trailer.

Danny, I'm certainly considering the offer, but I have nowhere to store the trailer.  The climate here is such that I don't want to go back to keeping a car outside to store a trailer inside, but keeping it outside will age it very quickly due to the humidity and heavy rain.  Give me a day or so to work on some ideas.

We're also in the process of looking at replacing Pam's car, which would be the tow vehicle.  That would enter into when I could get it.  And, of course, I know very little about towing.

EDIT: It really does seem like a good deal.  Pam and I are working on storage ideas.  What's your time  frame?

IaM-Ray posted:

If the budget has no limit the Aerovault is just so awesome of a trailer to haul a car, it's a work of brilliant engineering and practicality never mind safety. 

The budget is always a factor. I believe an Aerovault is almost as much as my Spyder frame and body.

You first, Ray.........

Time frame is sometime before Carlisle, Lane. Also, sale of this trailer is not really a factor on when I purchase a new one. The trailer sits outside as well at my house. I don't have your humidity though. I crank the tongue jack all the way up and everything runs off and doesn't sit and rust. You can tuck it in an unused corner of your property.

Lane, it's not hard to trailer, you just need to plan your moves and braking, take it easy and spend a lot more time in the right lane. Backing up is the hardest part until you master it. My Audi weighs 4700 and can tow about 3000-3500. I'm at 2200 loaded and it really isn't a big deal. The brakes on the trailer can't be talked about enough. They help a great deal to scrub off the speed. Tie the car down really tight and go. Your car should be 1800 or less, so about 2500 all up.

Aerovaults, I think are like $27K plus options so the budget is way in the nose bleed sections of the ice rink.  They are real awesome from what I hear,  but you really need to be living in it weekly to justify the purchase of such a rig.  

We can still dream Danny, isn't that what this list is all about  

DannyP posted:

Rick, I'm looking at 8.5' x 16' V-front. Payload of up to 5000, so I can haul whatever in addition to my Spyder.

Dave, the ramps are from Harbor Freight, 6' long, and can handle 1200 pounds, which works out OK since only 1 axle is on them at a time. They are nice and light aluminum, and come hinged together, but I drilled out the rivets holding the hinges on and separated them. I added a couple bolts sticking through each top end to hang into loops on the end of the trailer. They stay in place and are easy to stow under the car. You might want to add some more metal to stiffen them if you need more capacity.

Lane, meet you halfway at Phil's house in Charlottesville?

Hey Danny congrats on the retirement. Big accomplishment. Just let me know if you want to meet in Cville. We’ll put some steaks on the grill. Or maybe check out some roads in West Virginia. 

Phil, sorry to volunteer you, but it truly is halfway between us LOL. I'm sure we'd be happy with whatever, no need to fuss for either Lane or myself. Really, it'd be great just to see y'all and where you live and check out some roads. Whether or not we're dropping off a trailer, it will be fun!

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