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If you look at the cable attachment at the latch, you will see the cable pulls on a lever giving a mechanical advantage to exert force on the latch itself (e.g. a 2:1 lever means I pull one inch with 5 pounds force, and I get 1/2 inch movement, but 10 pounds of force at the other end). I simply fabricated a SECOND lever system adding a second mechanical advantage to the first one. Now I pull the cable twice as far as you do, but I can unlatch with half the force required. The second system is tucked nicely up front, right next to the original, and it attaches nicely under the trunk panel.

Greasing the pull cable wouldn't get you much. Greasing the latch mechanism itself would get you better results. Been there, done that.
I dont like the use of rivits on the latch mounting .

I want to spot wield nuts on the back of my latch and use philp pan head screws..

WHY?? you ask..

(1) you can take it off to clean a lube it.

(2) When its off , re installing a new cable is easy.


If you have ever work on a Karman Ghia, YOU KNOW THIS !!!
Years ago, I bought a choke cable kit at the local auto parts store. Like mentioned above, pull fishing line thru when removing the old cable. The more flexible stranded cable easily bends around the turns in the tube and works very smoothly. Been in mine six years or so with no problems.
While you're fixing this, it's a good idea to get a piece of coat hanger and fashion an emergency release pull. Attach a foot or so piece to the latch release and form a loop on the other. If the cable ever fails, you can reach up under the body, tug on the wire and release the latch.

~WB
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