Does anybody have an excel list (or any list) of ALL the various fuses, relays, connectors, light bulbs, etc. that one would need to complete all the electrical work??
I have the wiring harness, fuse box, and two wiper switches that attach to the dashboard... but nothing else. Are there specific connectors for the headlights, etc?
Most folks start with a donor beetle - I didn't 
Thanks in advance for the help!!!
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Wow....never been asked that one before.......
Don't know which FLAPS you have around there, but I can probably give you a list of NAPA convertible part numbers (Echlin, Standard and Dorfman, etc...) later on this evening. (Gotta get home first - I'm out on my bike!!)
The headlights are standard 3-prong but you want a shallow (short) housing, not the "regular" one, because if you run H4 headlight bulbs they seem to stick back an extra 1/8"-1/4" and the back of the connector hits the inside of the headlight bucket.
More later.....
Oh! what kind of fuse does your fuse panel accept? Cartridge (cylindrical), 1/4" tab or 1/8" tab? Does the fuse panel have relay sockets? Used for what?
Who made your wiring harness?
A little more info would help.
Blinken flippen - Headlight switch (park, headlight and rheostat for dash lights
Drizzle flippen - Wiper switch with slow and slightly faster slow
Scheiße flippen - Emergency flashers?
Anyone remember those funny dash switch labels for VWs back in early 70's?
Bear in mind that I started with a VW sedan wiring harness and then modified the snot out of it to suit what I wanted. You should also add at least three extra 12 ga wires from the dash to the engine compartment, just in case (it's OK to thank me later).
OK, my first suggestion would be to send an email list of everything you need (below) to Carey Hines at Special Edition and get him to quote you on the package. That way, you know it's already being used in Speedsters AND it will all arrive at the same time.
My second suggestion is to get the following from NAPA. These are all Standard Motor Products part numbers (cross-referenceable by NAPA).
Brake switch - Depends on your master cylinder, but a 1970 from Bug City (113945515HG) will usually fit most anything. You don't need the three terminal switch as the third terminal drove the dash "Brake Failure" light, which we don't have. I strongly recommend NOT using an hydraulic, Master Cylinder switch as they all come from China these days and only last a year or two. Instead, get a SLS-40 mechanical switch at NAPA (used on Chevy products from 1937-1962), mount it to the floor so that the brake pedal actuates it. Done forever.
Wipers: You said you have this already, but I like the 91064056 from speedwaymotors.com It's everything plus a bag of chips.
Headlight switch: Standard DS-142
Headlight relay (fused): RY-2
Floor mounted Dimmer Switch: DS-70 or DS-72
Emergency Flasher - There are so many different variations of this circuit that I can only guess. Tell us how you intend to wire your e-flashers (Alan has a cool circuit) and we'll recommend something. A universal, push-pull foglight switch is perfect, but I can't be sure. Mine is a VW E-Flasher switch (1969) with a bazillion terminals on it - don't go there, as it's total German over-design.
If you don't use a floor dimmer switch and want a latching headlight relay toggled by your directional lever, then get a VW 311941583AX (bugcity.com), and use it to drive a power relay (RY-28) to power the headlights - That way, the VW relay will last forever.
Ignition switch: US-129
Door switch (for courtesy lights): DS-206 or DS-251
Universal, 30-amp relay: RY-28 Used for anything under 40 amps that needs a relay - oil cooler fan, starter solenoid (to save the key switch), you name it.
I guess that's it for now..... You doing that email to Carey yet?
Gordon Nichols posted:Wow....never been asked that one before.......
Don't know which FLAPS you have around there, but I can probably give you a list of NAPA convertible part numbers (Echlin, Standard and Dorfman, etc...) later on this evening. (Gotta get home first - I'm out on my bike!!)
The headlights are standard 3-prong but you want a shallow (short) housing, not the "regular" one, because if you run H4 headlight bulbs they seem to stick back an extra 1/8"-1/4" and the back of the connector hits the inside of the headlight bucket.
More later.....
Oh! what kind of fuse does your fuse panel accept? Cartridge (cylindrical), 1/4" tab or 1/8" tab? Does the fuse panel have relay sockets? Used for what?
Who made your wiring harness?
A little more info would help.
- Fuse panel is from Kirk, so it is the 1/4" tabs (I believe)
- Wiring harness is from Kirk and his Team
- I have the headlight housing that came with Kirk's kit, but no headlight or three prog thingy (just the wires that come from the fuse panel). I was looking at the LED headlights and noticed the connection... and I was like "my harness doesn't have that?!?!"
- Not sure about the relay sockets at the fuse panel (it's a basic Kirk harness and fuse box)
- I have access to Kirk and Greg's shop, So Cal Imports, J Bugs... they are all pretty close and an easy drive
Gordon Nichols posted:Bear in mind that I started with a VW sedan wiring harness and then modified the snot out of it to suit what I wanted. You should also add at least three extra 12 ga wires from the dash to the engine compartment, just in case (it's OK to thank me later).
OK, my first suggestion would be to send an email list of everything you need (below) to Carey Hines at Special Edition and get him to quote you on the package. That way, you know it's already being used in Speedsters AND it will all arrive at the same time.
My second suggestion is to get the following from NAPA. These are all Standard Motor Products part numbers (cross-referenceable by NAPA).
Brake switch - Depends on your master cylinder, but a 1970 from Bug City (113945515HG) will usually fit most anything. You don't need the three terminal switch as the third terminal drove the dash "Brake Failure" light, which we don't have. I strongly recommend NOT using an hydraulic, Master Cylinder switch as they all come from China these days and only last a year or two. Instead, get a SLS-40 mechanical switch at NAPA (used on Chevy products from 1937-1962), mount it to the floor so that the brake pedal actuates it. Done forever.
Wipers: You said you have this already, but I like the 91064056 from speedwaymotors.com It's everything plus a bag of chips.
Headlight switch: Standard DS-142
Headlight relay (fused): RY-2
Floor mounted Dimmer Switch: DS-70 or DS-72
Emergency Flasher - There are so many different variations of this circuit that I can only guess. Tell us how you intend to wire your e-flashers (Alan has a cool circuit) and we'll recommend something. A universal, push-pull foglight switch is perfect, but I can't be sure. Mine is a VW E-Flasher switch (1969) with a bazillion terminals on it - don't go there, as it's total German over-design.
If you don't use a floor dimmer switch and want a latching headlight relay toggled by your directional lever, then get a VW 311941583AX (bugcity.com), and use it to drive a power relay (RY-28) to power the headlights - That way, the VW relay will last forever.
Ignition switch: US-129
Door switch (for courtesy lights): DS-206 or DS-251
Universal, 30-amp relay: RY-28 Used for anything under 40 amps that needs a relay - oil cooler fan, starter solenoid (to save the key switch), you name it.
I guess that's it for now..... You doing that email to Carey yet?
Most people either had a donor VW beetle to give to Kirk or they just bought one built. I didn't realize how many little things you need from the donor VW! LOL!
I have two headlight switches Kirk gave me with ivory knobs. I think he said they were a three position switch? I can take a photo and post it if you need...
I don't plan on a door switch.
Need an ignition switch and I think there was a post about a nice Bosch one??
Floor dimmer switch?!? Good lord I have no idea what that is... LOL!
Wipers are from an earlier 70's beetle (got it from Kirk).
Brakes are all done and have two switches on the master cylinder. I did all that before the body was mounted (haven't you seen my build thread - there's pictures too) 
I will start the email tonight...
As previously mentioned I know the VS harness in and out from using it all the time. The VS harness needs added: 2 - relays, 1- flasher, grounds at the lights and gauges. Column signal switch wired in. Just send me a pm with your Q's as you go along.
Alan Merklin posted:As previously mentioned I know the VS harness in and out from using it all the time. .Just send me a pm with your Q's as you go along.
You know I will!
I guess I was looking to see if anybody had a "shopping list" as it relates to the electrical stuff. Simple and basic. Nothing fancy or elaborate. I want to keep the build simple. I can check what I already have and head to So Cal Imports or Greg or Kirk and say "can you get me the rest?"
What ever you do, don't mount the fuse block where Kirk currently mounts it unless your twenty years old, flexible and can work in close visual areas and upside down and in twisted positions and are skinny.
My next car will have Cole Hersey thermal circuit breakers that reset themselves.......Bruce
aircooled posted:What ever you do, don't mount the fuse block where Kirk currently mounts it unless your twenty years old, flexible and can work in close visual areas and upside down and in twisted positions and are skinny.
My next car will have Cole Hersey thermal circuit breakers that reset themselves.......Bruce
Definitely NOT in my twenties and skinny. I'm working on my "dad bod" now that we have a 17 month old...
I haven't mounted the front harness yet, so I will make sure I find a easily accessible location for my growing belly
The VS fuse block location can be changed, the only wires that will come up short are the passenger rear taillight.
Most of my car was built and wired when I was in my "flexible" Forties. Surprisingly, I thought about the future and placed my fuse/relay block under the hood in the "frunk". You can get at everything while standing beside the car.
It wasn't often that I did "smaht stuff" on that build, but that was one of 'em.
I got the fuse/relay block from a junkyard Sterling convertible (16 fused circuits and 6 relays) and all of the internal contacts from NAPA. Oh....And a professional-grade, ratcheting crimp tool. That was smaht, too.
Is there a preferred location, in the front trunk on the firewall?, if one was to relocate the fuse panel. Someday time allowing I'd like to re-do my wiring. It is a mess, it's the original vw harness as there are many unused lines, taped off, with masking tape. Most all of the inked descriptions are illegible. Some simply say "do not use" Crazy.
opps, missed your post Gordon.
You could leave in under dash with maybe 8-12 extra inches of wire. Lower it down to build/work on it and raise/attach it up under dash when completed. I'd be afraid of it under frunk (especially if using the ceramic open VW OEM fuses) especially if there are gas fume evident there. One spark or fizzle fuse burn out and KABOOM.
x2^
Well, I don't know what to tell you. The back side of VW Beetle fuse panels (with lots of holes in them) were sticking all of their wire connections right up into the Frunk forever - years before they moved the gas tank filler to the outside (because the EPA told them to). Only the front side of the panel was in the interior of the car.
Regardless, I've been on the road since 2000 with nary a problem and it's a joy to work on. Way better than contorting myself under the dash. But it's your car. Be comfortable with it.
