Gas tank...

I normally take gas tanks to a radiator shop to have them restored. But with the speedster I found a new tank at about half the price I pay the radiator shop. I did have to have the filler shortened.

Red-Koat ($30). Thin it with acetone. Clean the tank with acetone. Follow the instructions on the can. Really great material. East to use. No acid wash of the tank required.

If you want to clean the surface rust (I did) use muratic acid, undiluted, and rinse with water and baking soda. Flush with water. Muratic acid is mild, used for cleaning newly installed brick. You can get it at most hardware stores. 1 gallon will do. Takes about 30 minutes.

This is similar to your tank.  You will have to cut down the filler neck.

https://www2.cip1.com/ProductD...D111%2D201%2D075%2DC

PS.  Isn't that a dangerous location for a cigarette lighter?  

James

https://dunebuggywarehouse.com...967-113201075ab.html

This is the one I got.

All you need is a speck of junk and it will play havoc with your cars performance or can very well  leave you on the side of the road .  Don't try to clean an old tank it's a waste of time and money and sooner or later crud particles will circulate .  Do replace the tank with a new one plus all lines  and related hoses and filters.

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James posted:

This is similar to your tank.  You will have to cut down the filler neck.

https://www2.cip1.com/ProductD...D111%2D201%2D075%2DC

 

PS.  Isn't that a dangerous location for a cigarette lighter?  

James

I was wondering if cutting down the filler neck reasoning is cosmetic or functional. It appears I would have enough room to clear the hood when fully closed. 

Yes, weird spot for a cigarette lighter. The previous owner used it for a DC power air pump to add air to the front and rear air shocks.  

Thank you fellas! I'm going with a new tank. I called a local radiator shop and was quoted $175 for cleaning and coating. I'll check the links provided. 

What is the reason for cutting down the filler neck if there is enough clearance for the hood to fully close? Is it for cosmetic correctness? 

Take the good Dr, Alan's advice.  Cut the future problems out. 

vdubuslife posted:

Thank you fellas! I'm going with a new tank. I called a local radiator shop and was quoted $175 for cleaning and coating. I'll check the links provided. 

What is the reason for cutting down the filler neck if there is enough clearance for the hood to fully close? Is it for cosmetic correctness? 

If the hood will close with the filler neck full length I can't really see any reason to cut it down; the higher it and the vent tube are the less fuel slosh there will be to deal with.

Tank vent, you only need a very small vent hole just enough to allow air into the tank for even pressure. I use a small ID  vacuum hose and plug the hose to allow just a paper clip size opening, this eliminates fuel slosh out the hose but air into the tank.

Jody007 posted:

https://dunebuggywarehouse.com...967-113201075ab.html

This is the one I got.

@Jody007 Out of curiosity did you have to cut down the filler neck? 

I had to cut down the neck on mine.  It is an original 67 Bug tank in a CMC.

vdubuslife posted:

Jody007 posted:

https://dunebuggywarehouse.com...967-113201075ab.html

This is the one I got.

@Jody007 Out of curiosity did you have to cut down the filler neck? 

@vdubuslife

I did have to cut the filler pipe. Like the good Dr. said, I replaced all the hoses, sending unit and fuel pump.

Jody007 posted:

vdubuslife posted:

Jody007 posted:

https://dunebuggywarehouse.com...967-113201075ab.html

This is the one I got.

@Jody007 Out of curiosity did you have to cut down the filler neck? 

@vdubuslife

I did have to cut the filler pipe. Like the good Dr. said, I replaced all the hoses, sending unit and fuel pump.

In all likelihood I'll probably be shortening the replacement tanks filler neck too. It's wishful thinking it would drop right in. From the photos it seems like it would clear but others with my setup had to cut theirs down, mine is probably the same. I have the tools so it's not big of a deal. 

You can shorten the tank neck your self by holding the tank inverted so that you don't get any metal filing in the tank. Remove the neck leaving about 3/4" out of the tank. Get a piece of exhaust pipe adapter and trim from both ends as it will be too long.  Clean everything well using JB Weld to secure it in place. I have been doing this for some time now.

Alan Merklin posted:

You can shorten the tank neck your self by holding the tank inverted so that you don't get any metal filing in the tank. Remove the neck leaving about 3/4" out of the tank. Get a piece of exhaust pipe adapter and trim from both ends as it will be too long.  Clean everything well using JB Weld to secure it in place. I have been doing this for some time now.

 

Thank you Alan, I’m not visualizing the use of an “exhaust pipe adapter”. Any chance you have a photo or an example link? 

I used the large 12.5 gallon tank from CIP with their gas cap.  It did not need to have the filler cap shortened.  It clears the inner liner of the frunk lid on my CMC.  It does, however,  take up room where the spare tire used to fit.

vdubuslife posted:

Alan Merklin posted:

You can shorten the tank neck your self by holding the tank inverted so that you don't get any metal filing in the tank. Remove the neck leaving about 3/4" out of the tank. Get a piece of exhaust pipe adapter and trim from both ends as it will be too long.  Clean everything well using JB Weld to secure it in place. I have been doing this for some time now.

 

Thank you Alan, I’m not visualizing the use of an “exhaust pipe adapter”. Any chance you have a photo or an example link? 

I will post a photo this afternoon

WOLFGANG posted:

I used the large 12.5 gallon tank from CIP with their gas cap.  It did not need to have the filler cap shortened.  It clears the inner liner of the frunk lid on my CMC.  It does, however,  take up room where the spare tire used to fit.

I've got the same tank in my IM. Fits fine with no cutting. Even though it was a new tank, I did the cleaning and coating steps before I installed it. I've heard great things about Red-Koat, but ended up using the POR gas tank coating since it was on the shelf at my auto paint store. 

@vdubuslife Do you always have a lighter beside the gaz tank ?

IaM-Ray posted:

@vdubuslife Do you always have a lighter beside the gaz tank ?

That's not a lighter, it's the self destruct button. 

@WOLFGANG @Michael Pickett - I did see the higher capacity 12.5 gallon fuel tanks. The extra fuel would be nice but I'm still leaning towards the stock size tank. Definitely a plus not having to mess with the filler neck. 

I'm going to try and pick up a tank tomorrow during my lunch break. 

Thank you for the feedback fellas!

I picked up the replacement tank today at a local vDub retail store. I don't know what I was thinking. I placed the new fuel tank in and the filler neck is way too tall for the lid to close.

Before I cut down the filler neck I plan on marking where the gas cap sits tight and the orientation (if I use a logo cap, it would drive me nuts seeing it mis-aligned). 

Any other tips fellas? 

Alan Merklin posted:

vdubuslife posted:

Alan Merklin posted:

You can shorten the tank neck your self by holding the tank inverted so that you don't get any metal filing in the tank. Remove the neck leaving about 3/4" out of the tank. Get a piece of exhaust pipe adapter and trim from both ends as it will be too long.  Clean everything well using JB Weld to secure it in place. I have been doing this for some time now.

 

Thank you Alan, I’m not visualizing the use of an “exhaust pipe adapter”. Any chance you have a photo or an example link? 

I will post a photo this afternoon

Alan, I googled the exhaust pipe adapter and now understand what you are talking about. I’ve used adapters in the past, what a great suggestion for this application. 

I’ll measure the filler neck ID tonight when I get home. 

Thank you! 

Sorry I forgot about taking a photo I placed the reducer - adapter with the narrow end into the tank then the upper end goes over the neck this provides support. I just JB'd them in place .

Alan Merklin posted:

Sorry I forgot about taking a photo I placed the reducer - adapter with the narrow end into the tank then the upper end goes over the neck this provides support. I just JB'd them in place .

 

@Alan Merklin - No worries, I wish I knew what the ID was of the filler neck. I'd stop by on the way home from work and grab the exhaust adapter. I'm picking up a master brake cylinder already. I figured I'd replace it since it so easy to get to now and looked like it had been leaking regularly.

Have a great weekend!

I cut down the filler neck twice. The first time I made the cut I didn’t account for the rubber piece under the tank. 

I plan on MIG tacks to hold the neck filler in and JB weld the rest for sealing. A buddy of mine that has a TIG welder has offered his welding skills (I don’t know how to TIG weld). I’ll report back what I was able to do. 

Meanwhile, since my tank is being worked on I’m replacing the master cylinder. Any thoughts on bench bleeding the MC? My machinist said it’s necessary with the MC’s being sold now. I bought a Brazilian VARGA TRW model. The last MC I benched bled was on a 70 Mustang that I had a power booster. I have no idea with VW’s. I’m thinking if I build @Gordon Nichols pressure bleeder it may not be necessary to bench bleed the MC. 

Happy Sunday fellas!

Now the only thing missing is a gas cap  cap

Even with the super-nifty “Five Cent Racing” pressure bleeder, I still bench bleed every MC I do (and the Varga/TRW is pretty much the same as your old Mustang MC).  It’s messy, but some MCs really seem to need it and I never know which.

But then, I’m admittedly old school, too.

And if you can use a TIG welder, just weld the whole filler circumference and stamp it “Done,”

IaM-Ray posted:

Now the only thing missing is a gas cap  cap

I dig the custom fuel cap! I have a flat one that I bought with the new tank. The original was a large Wolfburg cap that is twice the height of the replacement. 

Gordon Nichols posted:

Even with the super-nifty “Five Cent Racing” pressure bleeder, I still bench bleed every MC I do (and the Varga/TRW is pretty much the same as your old Mustang MC).  It’s messy, but some MCs really seem to need it and I never know which.

But then, I’m admittedly old school, too.

And if you can use a TIG welder, just weld the whole filler circumference and stamp it “Done,”

@Gordon Nichols  I'm trying to align schedules with my buddy with the TIG welder. If we cannot get together soon it's going to be MIG tack and JB  

Any cons to the onboard mounted dual circuit reservoir aside from not being able to access it from the top? I like the clean look of not having the cables on top. The MC is a Brazilian model # 113611015DBR so the dual reservoir is compatible. 

It just is a cool cap but the original 59 ish tanks have a great big large cap which are also cool but the tanks are more costly.  I don't know why nobody uses them honestly. 

Just messing around the Manetarium...

Good evening fellas. I was able to get the tank TIG welded. I still need to drill a vent hole. I installed a Brazilian VARGA TRW dual circuit master cylinder while the tank was removed. This model allowed me to use the dual reservoir directly mounted on top. 

I'm not going to use the original reservoir as a fill tank. I'm going to remove the old brake hoses and reservoir to clean up the trunk a bit. I wasn't too impressed how it looked under the tank, it's going to need clean up parts update.

Master cylinder bench bleeding always goes better with a Folgers can as a receptacle.  

I’m jus’ sayin’.......  I mean, you’re not going to re-use that fluid, right?

Love the Crosley payphone in the background, too.  Do you know the trick to make it hold coins in the upper register when making a call?

I also have one of those pay phones. I need to hook it back up in the garage like it was in the old house.

Gordon Nichols posted:

Master cylinder bench bleeding always goes better with a Folgers can as a receptacle.  

I’m jus’ sayin’.......  I mean, you’re not going to re-use that fluid, right?

Love the Crosley payphone in the background, too.  Do you know the trick to make it hold coins in the upper register when making a call?

@Gordon Nichols Nay, I won't be reusing the fluid.

What's the trick? I picked the phone up at a garage sell and mounted it on the wall. It's not hooked up  

Crosley Phones had several system functions used by the phone system and/or operators, like having the option to return coins inserted above to the coin return, or deposit them in the cash box at the bottom.  If a diode was placed across the two phone lines in the proper direction, it would block the operator's (or system's) signal to release the coins until the diode was removed, then the phone would simply send them to the coin return.  IIRC, a Crosley could hold up to ten of each coin in the upper register.

Talk about arcane things to remember.........

Gordon Nichols posted:

Crosley Phones had several system functions used by the phone system and/or operators, like having the option to return coins inserted above to the coin return, or deposit them in the cash box at the bottom.  If a diode was placed across the two phone lines in the proper direction, it would block the operator's (or system's) signal to release the coins until the diode was removed, then the phone would simply send them to the coin return.  IIRC, a Crosley could hold up to ten of each coin in the upper register.

Talk about arcane things to remember.........

@Gordon Nichols Interesting, I've never heard of that method. I thought you were going to mention the Captain Crunch whistle. I do remember that