Skip to main content

Please do not use the Classified section for discussion.   Replies not relevant to the specific item for sale, will be deleted.
The Classified section is open to any individual (non-commercial firms) posting of items for sale or wanted. Members posting commercial advertisements must be enrolled in a Supporting Merchant program.  

So, I am much for this style of front anti-sway bar over the heavy duty model currently available.  Seems like this over the top design is a much better design and more effective with the pivot point being anchored to the beam, etc.  I spoke with WHITELINE a while ago and they said they would make more of these if they could have a big enough order.  I think it was around 15-20 required for a run of their discontinued type 1 model.  Anyone interested?  OR.....I have seen a couple recent pics of some of you making one out of a straight bar with end horns.  Any success? and would anyone sell one or two to me?

Figured I would throw it out there.  And thanks in advance.

 

Mikewhiteline

Attachments

Images (1)
  • whiteline
Original Post

Open the PDF to see what is required for the build. By the time I was finished I had spent about $200 not including my time.

After completing my project, Dannyp did a similar but less complex installation on his Spyder. I believe that he welded the arms to the bar. Mine are splined.

Attachments

Files (1)
Last edited by Jim Gilbert - Madison, Mississippi

IMHO the 3/4" bar is too much unless for Autocross, and the factory VW 12-13mm bar is not enough.

Years ago, before EMPI=China, EMPI made a 5/8" bar designed for the street.

A properly bushed 5/8" bar is the sweet spot. The bushings and bar size make it way stiffer than the VW free-floating design. I used black urethane bushings with grease fittings from Jeg's or Summit. I welded flat plates to the front beam, including nuts on the back side, then painted it all black.

Jim's spline design is really nice, but too costly for me. If I had a local shop that could cut splines, that's what I would have done. I used an early 911 through-body swaybar and cut off the ends. I had a local welder Tig the arms on, they are made of laser-cut 3/8" flat steel. Tig transfers less heat, I didn't want to remove the temper of the bar.

I bought the arms from a fabricator in Canada, don't remember the company name.

I used 10mm rod ends, one male and one female each side, and attached them to the lower shock studs. Works very well. I'm using the outermost of 3 holes in the arms.

Add Reply

Post Content
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×