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So, I am much for this style of front anti-sway bar over the heavy duty model currently available.  Seems like this over the top design is a much better design and more effective with the pivot point being anchored to the beam, etc.  I spoke with WHITELINE a while ago and they said they would make more of these if they could have a big enough order.  I think it was around 15-20 required for a run of their discontinued type 1 model.  Anyone interested?  OR.....I have seen a couple recent pics of some of you making one out of a straight bar with end horns.  Any success? and would anyone sell one or two to me?

Figured I would throw it out there.  And thanks in advance.




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  • whiteline
Original Post

Open the PDF to see what is required for the build. By the time I was finished I had spent about $200 not including my time.

After completing my project, Dannyp did a similar but less complex installation on his Spyder. I believe that he welded the arms to the bar. Mine are splined.


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Last edited by Jim Gilbert - Madison, Mississippi

IMHO the 3/4" bar is too much unless for Autocross, and the factory VW 12-13mm bar is not enough.

Years ago, before EMPI=China, EMPI made a 5/8" bar designed for the street.

A properly bushed 5/8" bar is the sweet spot. The bushings and bar size make it way stiffer than the VW free-floating design. I used black urethane bushings with grease fittings from Jeg's or Summit. I welded flat plates to the front beam, including nuts on the back side, then painted it all black.

Jim's spline design is really nice, but too costly for me. If I had a local shop that could cut splines, that's what I would have done. I used an early 911 through-body swaybar and cut off the ends. I had a local welder Tig the arms on, they are made of laser-cut 3/8" flat steel. Tig transfers less heat, I didn't want to remove the temper of the bar.

I bought the arms from a fabricator in Canada, don't remember the company name.

I used 10mm rod ends, one male and one female each side, and attached them to the lower shock studs. Works very well. I'm using the outermost of 3 holes in the arms.

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