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Gomer, if you didn't get them from Blackline racing or someone like me, you should take them apart. New carbs NEED to be taken apart and CLEANED to hospital specs. There is often a lot of machining junk left in them. All orifices, reservoirs, and passages need to be blasted with carb cleaner and air dried. I usually use a blow gun with a rubber tip, set to about 20-25 pounds.

After cleaning, set the float height and drop(I use 11mm and 25mm), and give yourself a half-turn of the idle speed stops off of fully closed throttle plates. Also, open all 4 idle volume(mixture) screws 1.5 turns from closed.

Then once they're clean and set up, you can install them and run 'em.

Don't forget to set the fuel pressure at no more than 3 psi for Webers.

Cheers.

Last edited by DannyP
@DannyP posted:

Gomer, if you didn't get them from Blackline racing or someone like me, you should take them apart.

 

Bad news, if you haven't heard: Dave no longer works at Blackline and Justin moved up to Blackfoot Idaho.  It was nice to have such a great source locally. While it lasted. 

FWIW, my Spyder was up at Blackline having some adjustments made when I ran into that Puma convert and its owner. 

Yeah - Dave's whereabouts would be important to know......   The guy's a rock star!

He really is.

But to be clear, Dave was a product of the ACE (Art Thraen)/ Blackline Racing (Justin McCalliser) way of doing things. I'm sure that Blackline will continue to be an excellent resource for not just carb work, but VW engine machining, etc. We all panicked when Art left the business, but Justin took over without skipping a beat.

Nothing ever stays the same (much to my chagrin). 

I only asked because Dave became a friend over the years, and I was hoping he landed on his feet. It would be a waste to have somebody so talented working somewhere outside his field of expertise. 

Last edited by Stan Galat

Thanks guys, I got the set from CB performance. I have opened them up adjusted the floats and cleaned as needed. To be honest they were very clean and after all the reading and stories I was expecting to find crud inside. But no they looked like they had just gotten cleaned.  

I’ll be pulling the old off and making the swap this weekend.  

Out of curiosity on my VS will I still be able to pull the engine with the carbs installed like I could with the Singles? Or will I need to remove them. For engine R&R?  

also I read to set the floats at 14mil but in this thread you mentioned 11. That seams like a significant increase in bowl volume. 

SO try it that way and see how it runs through the transition from idles to mains. Three millimeters is about an 1/8", which really isn't a lot. More important is that the floats are set identically in both carburetors.

If your car goes lean in the transition, raise the float height. 10% ethanol requires more fuel to get the same result. I think that 14mm height might be before gas was poisoned with ethanol, but I could be wrong.

Last edited by DannyP

You probably won't notice much of a difference unless you're at full throttle and reading a wideband A/F gauge. Somewhere in the 1800-3000 rpm range, you might feel a little less oomph if it goes lean.

At part throttle you won't feel a difference.

Jet the idles and mains first, and make sure they're correct. Only then do you play with air correctors, emulsion tubes, and float height.

And make sure you're at 3 psi for IDFs, not over 3.5 MAX, that still holds true.

Cheers.

Last edited by DannyP

"Out of curiosity on my VS will I still be able to pull the engine with the carbs installed like I could with the Singles? Or will I need to remove them. For engine R&R?"@GomerP

With the air cleaners and pulley belt removed, you should be able to R&R the engine without taking the carbs off. . With car on jack stands and front wheels blocked, I always remove one of the rear wheels to slide the engine out the side through the wheel opening.

Good luck with your project! Looking forward to following your progress. 

@Stan Galat posted:

Nothing ever stays the same. Any idea where Dave landed?

Yeah - Dave's whereabouts would be important to know......   The guy's a rock star!

Yes, I know. And it’s not good news. I stopped by to get some new throttle plates and screws when I installed my new Venturis and I ruined one getting the old Venturi out. Justin was in the process of moving and he said one of the local school districts offered him a job in their bus maintenance facilities that was too good to pass up. 

I had my brother look up his info on Facebook on the off chance that I could coerce him into picking up some side work, but he never returned my phone call. I guess it’s left to the lucky ones that knew him well. 

Art rebuilt my Dellortos when I first bought them back in 2001-2002. Dave has serviced them ever since. I really miss having his experience to lean on. Oh well, I’ve got Danny now, thank goodness.

Got the carbs installed today. 
Had to relocate the fuel pressure regulator up on the engine wall. It was in the driver side wall and that space is now occupied by new shinny air cleaners. Now I am having a low pressure issue. max I can get out of my pump is about 1.5-2 psi. .. I did not have this issue before moving the regulator. Anyway it took a bit of fuss to sync the carbs and get the fast idle dialed in. Nothing unusual but space is a bit tight getting to the mixture screws. I had just enough time to take it out for a quick test run to see how she felt.
fFist impression with out touching the jets. Runs strong pulls hard and I don’t run out of power as soon at I hit 4200rpm. Like before.  The engine wants to keep spinning. I didn’t try to find redline. I do have a heavy lag when I stop the peddle so I’ll look into the fuel pressure first and then start on the jets tomorrow working with the wideband.   

in process photo don’t mind the bubble wrap and painters tape.  

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