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I've had one since day one (over 20 years, now) and yes, it's probably worth it.

I used my '69 VW sedan donor electricals and switches and realized when I started that they had maybe already reached their useful life, so I took them apart, cleaned the contacts and put them back together, but all of my switches drive relays that, in turn, drive whatever device the switch works.

In the case of the starter, I located a water-proof relay close to the starter solenoid - I mounted it up in the void between the firewall and the rear seatback, attached to a inner support.  That relay gets it's input power right from the battery + cable and has a wire to the solenoid 12 volt key tab of about 12" of 12 gauge wire.  The wire coming from the cockpit key switch goes to the relay, not to the solenoid.  All this gives me maximum voltage to drive the starter solenoid with no voltage drop from the 10' of wire between key and solenoid.  Works like a charm.

I should add that I have a small Odyssey P680 battery (500 cranking amps) because of space limitations where I could mount it up in the Frunk - more like the battery you might see on a big motorcycle.  I run oversize (00) fine-wire battery cables made for welders to make sure there's plenty of juice back at the starter when I need it.

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

I'm with barncobob on this one.

IMI 101 gear-driven starter solved my problems too. Starts every single time.

https://www.appletreeauto.com/...iEAQYAiABEgLeQPD_BwE

The solenoid on the starter is all you need with a automotive ignition switch. The solenoid takes a lower level of current(less than 20-30 amps) and switches on full battery amperage to the starter.

Having said that, I have a cheap NAPA pushbutton starter switch, so use a Bosch-type 30 amp relay to send the juice to the starter solenoid. The cheap switch has been flawless using the relay, which is under the dash near the switch.

Last edited by DannyP
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