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Do any of you have a problem with the clutch cable housing interfering with the headers on your Beck/Chamonix??

My cable housing was bent down so that the headers would just pass over the top of the housing and then the cable bent back up to meet the bellcrank afair that runs to the clutch release lever.

I did not like the bends in the clutch cable so I cut the clutch housing free from the frame and drilled a hole in the frame crossmember just below the transaxle mount in line with the bellcrank then ran the cable housing thru the hole, now my clutch cable is almost straight and not binding in the housing and it now is above the headers.
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Do any of you have a problem with the clutch cable housing interfering with the headers on your Beck/Chamonix??

My cable housing was bent down so that the headers would just pass over the top of the housing and then the cable bent back up to meet the bellcrank afair that runs to the clutch release lever.

I did not like the bends in the clutch cable so I cut the clutch housing free from the frame and drilled a hole in the frame crossmember just below the transaxle mount in line with the bellcrank then ran the cable housing thru the hole, now my clutch cable is almost straight and not binding in the housing and it now is above the headers.
Pretty simple. Check Spyderclub.com as Larry may still have some parts with good prices available.

I had to drill through the front steel, add a MC and pedal, braided line and the slave saver and slave cylinder in the back. Actual time should have been about 2-3 hours but the MC was bad and then I had a pedal problem. Really great addition though, would never go back.
If possible, mount it/them where the greatest amount of slop is, keeping in mind the difference between "slop" and the forward/back and rotational motions that select gears. The rod should move back and forth and rotate with a minimum of variance in the planes the rod segments are on.

BTW, 14mm was the size of the shift rod in my car, but I don't know if that's standard or not. You should check yours before proceeding. I think a 14mm diameter yields a rod circumference of roughly 44mm (A hair less than 1.75").
It thought that a lot of the "slop" was coming from the rubber blocks on the end of the shift rod where it connects to the shaft coming out of the back end of the transaxle, I made up some nylon blocks and replaced the rubber ones but that only helped a little.

The last mid-engine car I had was a Pantera and the linkage used 4 Helm joints for both rotation and endways movement but had only 1 nylon eye on the shift rod like the spyder (it had very precice shifing) I may need to make up something like it had.
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