I'd check first with Carey Hines (@chines1).
Looks like a NAPA Help Rack aftermarket switch …..Advance and Auto Zone also sell them but check the amp ratings .
Thanks Alan you nailed it. It's a Dorman 30amp switch, available from Napa, O'Reillys and Pep Boys.
BTW since the headlight feed is fused at the fuse box I remove the glass fuse on the switch and put a jumper there because if the fuse blows on the switch the new owner will go for the fuse box not knowing there is a fuse on the switch
Fix those ugly connectors while you're down there ?
Shrink wrap helps to keep connections from wiggling loose.
Pretty sure I saw that switch at Tractor Supply today for 8 bucks.
I'm with David, it doesn't look good around that switch.
The quality of crimp connectors varies widely. I prefer the ones that are totally encased in plastic, preferably made by Wurth. And use a good quality crimper, not a dollar-store model. The crimps will last forever, and no, you don't need to buy a ratchet crimper.
I finally remembered www.steinair.com for very nice connectors etc.
But ratchet crimpers are real nice if you have one. I still solder and heat shrink. Just my preference.
David, I do both, depending on application.
I just wired my trailer and every connection has solder and marine heatshrink, the kind that has clear goo at the ends when you heat it. I also ran the protected wires through the frame where I could.
I also ran a ground to every light(and to the brakes) as I don't trust trailer frame grounds. All lights are LED, so theoretically they should all work forever, barring a cut wire or something.
Grounds on trailers are ALWAYS the problem with lighting issues!
I just got one from JEGS for $6