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I had a nice conversation with Pat Downs the other day about the motor he’s planning to build for my speedster. He asked if I wanted to add heater boxes (more $$) I said no and fee like that’s probably a good decision since I’m going with heated seats. But now I’m curious on what others have done. I live in California and generally this will be a fare weather/ weekend car. 
does your car have a heater? Pros/cons? 

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Well, from experience, you have three options, but consider, that up where you live it stays pretty nice during the days, even in so-called "Winter".  Driving top-down right into the 40's temps isn't all that bad, so how many days do you really think you'll be driving below 50F?   That said, your options:

  1. Go with no heater boxes - If you don't expect to drive top up/windows in during really cold weather, then why bother with heat?  Save $$$

  2. Go with larger heater boxes to fit your engine - This usually adds $600 - $700 (or considerably more) to the cost of the engine and gets you OK heat.  It will never be like a water-cooled daily driver, but at least you'll have luke-warm heat/defrosters - Maybe even pretty good heat, depending on how the heater boxes are plumbed into your heater ducts or central tunnel.


  3. Spring for a Webasto or Espar gas powered heater for around $1200 - $1800 installed.  Tractor Trailer places that install sleeper cab heaters know all about them and can install it professionally for you.  The heat output can drive you outa the car unless you run it on "Low".  I think Danny P is running a Webasto and Jack Crosby, Mark Heljm (sp?) and I are running Espar derivatives.  I don't know of any others, but there're probably a few more out there.
Last edited by Gordon Nichols

My car has an Espar heater / defrost system and it gives enough heat that I could drive my car year round up here. Very quick and effective defrost on both sides which is a real nice treat to have. My roadster has this unit tucked way up under the dash and blocks anything above it such as the windshield wiper motor and system. If that wiper system ever needs fixing, we'll be crying 96 Tears. 

I have the most tricked out "stock" heating system, with a center sealed top and modified widows. Very little air leakage in or out. Also direct to vent piping bypassing the frame. I have a temp sensitive oil cooler valve installed as well. Once the temp goes below 40F the engine does not get warm enough to produce adequate heat. With a coat on it is tolerable. There is also insufficient airflow to defrost the front window screen. To put it simply, if it is cold you need a gas heater. I had a BA6 in a bus and it roasted me out in 5 minutes. 

I've got my BN2 throttled way back so it takes something like 10 minutes to get the cockpit warm below an outside temp of 40F but it's more than adequate to overcome the thousands of little air leaks everywhere.  If I really let'er rip it would drive me out.

I have tried for years to seal the central tunnel to little effect.  I have no idea where the air is getting in, there - I can't find a leak, but it leaks.

 

 

Blake, this depends entirely on how you will be using the car, so only you can decide, but here's why I decided on heater boxes and why I'm glad I did.

I live just over the hill from you in balmy Sacramento. Surprisingly, we use the heat as much in the summer as in the winter. Note, I said 'we' - my wife's a lot more sensitive to cold than I am. Many Speedster days are 'go' or 'no go' depending on whether she thinks she's going to be warm enough.

In the summer, when it will too toasty for top-down driving after about 11 am, we get an early start to beat the heat. Sometimes 0'dark thirty early. And that early, it's still pretty chilly, so the heat on and maybe a blanket for the first hour make the whole day doable. I'd think this would apply even more in the Bay area, with its frequent morning 'marine layer'. Or if you're planning any trips to the Montery peninsula.

In the dead of our bone-chilling, 40-degree winters, with the top up and side curtains in, the heat is good enough for shirtsleeve driving. But neither of us like driving the car with the top up, so we usually end up not taking the Speedster on the days when you'd think heat would be most useful.

Again, that's just us. Everyone has a different take on it. But in our climate, heat can greatly extend the driving season.

On a 2110, you'll almost certainly be using a 1.5" exhaust system. Decent quality heater boxes in that size are easy to find and will add about $700-800 to the bottom line - an amount you will probably forget about the first time heat saves the day for you.

One last thing that's often overlooked. When driving by yourself with the full tonneau zipped shut over the passenger side, the heat is much more effective at keeping the driver warm.

 

 

Blake, I  don't have seat heaters. They may perform the same magic as conventional heat, but I can't say. Most who have them like them.

Curiously, I have a slightly-smaller-than-2110 motor on Pat's recommendation, although I know he's built a ton of 2110's for Speedsters.

When I was considering a 2110 and told him I lived in the central valley, he said a little less power (and generated heat) would make for better long-haul durability. He suggested the same size cylinders as a 2110 (90.5mm), but a slightly shorter stroke (78.8 vs 82). Although I ended up going with a different engine builder (long story, but no knock on Pat), the 2017 I ended up with has proven strong enough for staying with freeway traffic and climbing Sierra grades.

But I've since learned of many people around here with 2110's who have had no problems. No matter the size, the key is a carefully-built motor, and getting a top-notch oil cooler properly installed.

 

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