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Hello everyone,

l’m looking at trying to get a better hood gap and engine lid levelness. Being my car is a CMC generation is this achievable?

I just want to move the hood back a few mils and lower the engine lid so it’s kinda level with the body.

The engine lid sits about 2–3.5mm higher than the body. The hood gap is about 5.66mm near the windshield area. 

 

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Last edited by JB356SR
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I dunno about drilling the hinges for lightness.  You’re gonna save, what?  The weight of a couple of #2 pencils?  

The engine cover is held up by the hinges at the front, and by the latch pin in the cover at the rear (plus any buttons or weatherstrip that might have been installed between the cover and body). 

Front of the cover can be lowered by turning the hinge firewall side bolt holes into slots, as Wolfgang alluded. Then, when loosely re-assembled, put a cardboard spacer between the cover and body flange to set the height you want, then tighten the bolts at the firewall (just use a pair of vise grips on the engine side of the firewall on the bolt head to hold the bolt while you tighten the nut on the back side).

Back of the cover:  is held up by the pin going into the latch Jaws.   Easiest fix is to slot the latch mounting holes in the bracket holding the latch, then move the latch down via trial-and-error til you get the cover where you want it.

Hood:  If the rear height of the hood looks level, open the hood and see how the hood is attached to the hinges and then, as Wolfgang mentioned, slot the holes in the hinge arms that the hood directly attaches to.  Re-assemble hood to hinge and get the bolts slightly tighter than finger-tight, then see how it looks when closed and adjust it (gentle taps or nudges) back to where you want it, but beware, you’ll probably have to slot where the front latch pin attaches to the hood if you’re moving everything back more than 1/8” so both ends of the hood will line up.  

Last edited by Gordon Nichols
Robert M posted:
ALB posted:

@Gordon Nichols wrote- "I dunno about drilling the hinges for lightness.  You’re gonna save, what?  The weight of a couple of #2 pencils?  "

It's all about percentages, baby!

But after enough drilling you might have several cases worth of #2 pencils. Every little bit repeated repeatedly adds up to a lot of bits of little bits. 

You've hit the nail on the head, Robert!

When you start looking at a car with the express purpose of trimming weight, a few obvious things- aluminum instead of steel wheels, thinner glass/replacing with lexan or plexiglass, stripping undercoating, substituting aluminum and/or titanium for steel/cast iron parts, jump out and will result in the loss of large amounts (pounds); after that you have to start looking at ounces, and even grams (28.3 g= 1 oz) on every piece you can touch. How much weight can you save by drilling holes in the ignition key? door handles? door striker plates? the brake and clutch pedals? Gordon's right- not very much individually, but start re-working every part you can get your hands on, add it all up and it's more than you think.

My late (shorter and lighter) handbrake originally weighed 357 grams, the ratchet plate (a bitch to drill, as it's surface hardened like a lot of transaxle parts; be prepared to fork out for carbide drill bits!) weighed 81 g and the pivot pin (which holds everything in place and anchors the assembly to the bracket on the tunnel) weighed 42-  so 480 grams in total. Weights after reworking- 238, 55 and 21= 314- that's a weight reduction of 166 grams (5.86 oz), or 34 %. Every little bit counts!

Not everything you touch will yield such great percentages, but 20% is usually achievable without too much work. And if you can subject 200 pounds of parts to the drill and/or grinder, you'll reduce car weight by upwards of 40 lbs. I think I'm averaging more than 25% weight reduction on all the pieces I've touched, the total at the moment being a little under 30 lbs (I haven't added it up lately so I'm guessing) and there are certainly more pieces to look at.

When Porsche built the '67 911R there was an engineer in charge of each group of parts on the car. One of the main objectives was to build the car as light as possible. The main shell was made of thinner steel, hoods, doors and bumpers were all thin fiberglass, the windshield was made from 1mm thinner glass, the rest of the windows were plexiglass, window winder mechanisms were scrapped in favor of leather straps, the Fuchs wheels were forged from smaller/lighter slugs than the production line wheels, some parts that were steel on the 911S were made of aluminum, and they redesigned, filed, ground and drilled holes in everything else (including the key)! The cars weighed in at 1670 lbs- 500 less than the production line S. Coupled with the aluminum cased, 210 hp type 901/22 engine (30? hp more than the S, which was already substantially more powerful than the base engine), another giant killer was born.

 

At the next Carlisle gathering, Al will lead an early 6 AM and sunset exercises (rain or shine).  Goal of the 4 days will be for each to lose 30#.  2016+ Mazda Miata is one of the lightest cars now available at 2300# - Lotus probably has a lighter model (if you can squeeze in it).  Ha, no spare tire, no jack, and not even a lug wrench. Front fenders, hood, doors, and boot all aluminum (as well as aluminum A-arms and under-chassis cross bracing.)

Image result for yoda exercisingImage result for yoda exercising

The hood hinges can be made to look great though with polishing and a few lightening holes!

Image result for drilled replica speedster hood hinge

 

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Last edited by WOLFGANG

When I initially set the hood and deck lids I use a piece of carboard box, that thickness tends to set the " height " correct for when the weather stripping is installed on the hood, as for the deck lid that does not get the weather stripping. Agree that the hinge bolt hole closest to the hinge bracket gets elongated to allow movement to correctly set the hood - deck lid height.

Robert M posted:
DannyP posted:

My Spyder weighs 1500 pounds wet. If I lost 30 pounds, that would trump every hole you've drilled, my friend. Now that's FUNNY!

For 95% of the people out there, especially us middle aged ones, drilling holes will cause faster weight loss than us actually trying to lose weight.

What my Poopiehead friend fails to remember is that when a car loses weight, as opposed to the owner, you don't have to worry about it coming back on the car...

And you are right, @Alan Merklin- those hinges do look great but that's a lot of work for something to be seen only when the hood is up. And the holes should be bigger.

Last edited by ALB

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