How do you strap down your car on a trailer or flatbed truck ?

I used two axle straps on the front beam paired with ratchet straps secured to fixed tie down points at the front of my trailer. At the rear I used heavy duty leather straps fed through one of the holes in the rim paired with ratchet straps back to a fixed point on my trailer at the rear. I made sure the rear straps were in a straight line to keep the swing axle from tucking in. The leather kept the nylon straps from contacting the rim. Later on I had two brackets custom made that attached to the lower shock mount and a second "eye" that the ratchet strap hook was secured to.

Wheel strap nets work very well as well as these:

https://www.macscustomtiedowns...nets-customwheelnets

Thanks for your input ,

when you have them out again can you post a picture of the leather straps ?

and how wide are they ?

Cheers

@imperial posted:

Thanks for your input ,

when you have them out again can you post a picture of the leather straps ?

and how wide are they ?

Cheers

I used an old belt that was 2" wide. I cut off the buckle and then cut the belt in half. I suppose if you wanted you could use two old leather belts. Thread them through the rim and secure them with the buckle by punching a hole in the leather where you want to secure them. That way they never fall off. The nylon straps are about 2" wide as well and rest on the leather belt so they never contact the rim.

The last couple of builds I have been replacing the lower shock nut with these, they are HD. You will need to check your bolt thread size they do come in different sizes.

  https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod...00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I pull whatever car on with the electric winch in the front of the trailer.

I have a 6 foot 1" strap with clevis ends, these go around each lower trailing arm in front. The winch hook attaches in the middle creating a bridle.

I use heavy chains in the back with snap hooks. I have nylon straps with nylon sleeves in 21" and 31" lengths(Tractor supply $20 ea, 10K pound rating). I wrap the nylon straps around the frame of the Spyder, the axles on the Formula Vee. Winch it in, hook chains, tighten winch.

Nylon straps:

https://www.tractorsupply.com/...-000-lb?cm_vc=-10005

Then I move to the front, and there I have ratchet straps with a hook, a nylon sleeve, and an adjustable loop to secure. Ratchet them down. NEVER depend on your winch to keep the car in place.

These straps are called "axle straps":

https://www.macscustomtiedowns...KEAQYASABEgLAa_D_BwE (just for illustration)

Always drive a few to ten miles and recheck tightness. Sometimes the car moves and settles, sometimes it doesn't move. It really depends on how straight you get it.

My Cayman is a different story. The trailer has ZERO room to open the driver door. The front towhook is offset to the right of the car, so I winch the car on backwards. The tow hook screws in behind the license plate(2 little screws).

That car gets straps through all 4 wheels, it is so low it is impossible to get under.

I reach in the open window and set the emergency brake once the car is tightened down, and I recommend leaving the car in neutral(not good for the transmission to rock back and forth if the straps get loose).

It is common sense and common practice to have EACH single strap rated to MORE than the weight of your car.

A friend had a 24' trailer with two racecars in it and had a MAJOR accident last summer. Totaled the truck and ripped the ball hitch part of the trailer both in half and completely off the trailer. My friends were OK, walked away. The trailer contents were completely OK because the cars were well secured with GOOD tie-downs.

They got another truck, repaired the trailer and continued to the races that evening.

EDIT: If your trailer has E-track in the floor, wheel nets are a GREAT option. I don't have that, just the factory 4 tie-down points.

This is a timely thread because I may very well be using the trailer to get the coupe back from the TdS.  I have yet to purchase tie-downs.

The tow truck that brought me home last month winched me up with a hook on a stinger around the end of my beam and had some really sweet straps that went over the tires and ratcheted at both ends. Didn’t touch my car (other than the tires) I followed it all 27 miles to my storage unit and it didn’t move an inch.

They looked like this but the buckles were on both ends where they couldn’t hit the body.

My open trailer has a wood deck.  I have 2x4's screwed onto the deck just behind the front wheels and just in front of the rear wheels.  Its nice since I drive over them and know exactly when to stop.  Then I tie each wheel down with these.  That way the suspension is not compressed and the car uses its own suspension to absorb the bumps.  Out of gear.  E brake on.

Just like the ones above.

https://www.amazon.com/Trekass...61808252&sr=8-30

BTW, Alan told me to do it this way and he used to do this for a living.

@dlearl476 posted:

The tow truck that brought me home last month winched me up with a hook on a stinger around the end of my beam and had some really sweet straps that went over the tires and ratcheted at both ends. Didn’t touch my car (other than the tires) I followed it all 27 miles to my storage unit and it didn’t move an inch.

They looked like this but the buckles were on both ends where they couldn’t hit the body.

That would be something like this:

https://www.myteeproducts.com/...z-green-webbing.html

What's nice about this system is you can use the tie down points on the outside edge of your trailer so it fits any type of vehicle. Over the top of the tire straps and E-track has to be in a line for it to work best. I tried to find these earlier but posted my response before I found them.

Those are pretty cool Alan, not to mention the ease of hook up.

Thanks for all your ideas ,

I normally use a short strap. Around the axle beam and a ratchet strap attached to the trailer frame , do that both sides of the front beam ,

Plus I have a good sized chain with hooks as an extra safety item

The rear is a bigger problem as there Is not much room to get the short straps under the car so I can attach the rear ratchet strap,

But thinking about it I might try and attach the strap when the car is on the ramp but not  all the way up on the flatbed trailer ,

If I get the rear wheels on the edge of the trailer I will have a lot of room……

I also bring a couple come-a-longs just in case the 12v Superwinch dies.

Has anyone used big hooks to replace the short straps ?

Cheers

Even though it looks more secure to cross the straps don't do it because in the rare event one strap comes loose it will pull on the car sideways as the trailer moves along , that it turn causes the front straps to also come loose.  I've really ever had an issue even at long towing trips 75 mph, I also take along a cordless drill to screw down 2 x 4 blocks ( wood deck) to chock the wheels in place.

@Lane Anderson posted:

This is a timely thread because I may very well be using the trailer to get the coupe back from the TdS.  I have yet to purchase tie-downs.

The time to get this sorted was when you had the Coupe, the trailer, and the tow vehicle all in the same zip code.

Guessing about how to get it all to work in Brevard is a bit like closing the barn door after the horses got out. Your mileage may vary.

I feel like I'm always swimming upstream, but here it goes:

I don't obsess. I tie stuff to trailers all the time (like 3x weekly). I never lose sleep over it, and I've never planned out how I'm going to tie the Speedster to a trailer either. I've never lost a load.

@Lane Anderson - just get ratchet tiedowns, and figure out how to do it once the car is on the trailer. Check the load after about a half-hour of driving. If it has moved, tie it down differently at the truck-stop or wherever you are.

If you need more or different straps, just go into Home Depot or WalMart or Autozone and buy different ones.

I feel like we're making this as complicated as a moonshot and unduly freaking out people who just want to tow a car once or twice a year. Sure, there are all kinds of trick methods to do this, but I just slip 1" straps through the slots in the wheels (protect the wheels with a rolled up microfiber if they're aluminum) and anchor it firmly to the trailer.

Done.

@Stan Galat posted:

I feel like I'm always swimming upstream, but here it goes:

I don't obsess. I tie stuff to trailers all the time (like 3x weekly). I never lose sleep over it, and I've never planned out how I'm going to tie the Speedster to a trailer either. I've never lost a load.

@Lane Anderson - just get ratchet tiedowns, and figure out how to do it once the car is on the trailer. Check the load after about a half-hour of driving. If it has moved, tie it down differently at the truck-stop or wherever you are.

If you need more or different straps, just go into Home Depot or WalMart or Autozone and buy different ones.

I feel like we're making this as complicated as a moonshot. Sure, there are all kinds of trick methods to do this, but I just slip 1" straps through the slots in the wheels (protect the wheels with a rolled up microfiber if they're aluminum) and anchor it firmly to the trailer.

Done.

I didn't use to lose sleep over it until I secured an almost $2 million car in my trailer. Secured it like every other load but I drove slower than I usually do. LOL

@Robert M posted:

I didn't use to lose sleep over it until I secured an almost $2 million car in my trailer. Secured it like every other load but I drove slower than I usually do. LOL

I'll bet.

@Stan Galat posted:

I feel like we're making this as complicated as a moonshot and unduly freaking out people who just want to tow a car once or twice a year. Sure, there are all kinds of trick methods to do this, but I just slip 1" straps through the slots in the wheels (protect the wheels with a rolled up microfiber if they're aluminum) and anchor it firmly to the trailer.

Done.

There aren't any hold-downs on the outside corners of the trailer Lane has(my former low, single axle rehab) for any fancy wheel straps. The four hold-down loops are inboard of the tires.

I'm not trying to make it complicated, I just happen to know this trailer, but not the underpinnings of Lane's car.

One more thing is tongue weight , since these cars are rear engine you need to pull them up on the trailer a little farther to put some weight on the tongue….

Well at least on my single axle Carson branded flatbed utility trailer……..

@imperial posted:

One more thing is tongue weight , since these cars are rear engine you need to pull them up on the trailer a little farther to put some weight on the tongue….

Well at least on my single axle Carson branded flatbed utility trailer……..

The axle is mounted FAR rearward, the trailer was a Formula Vee trailer that I modified for a 550 Spyder. Lane's Beck is ALSO mid-engine. It'll be fine and have plenty of tongue-weight. It has a 3500 pound axle and springs, Lane's car weighs in the area of 2000 pounds, plus or minus a couple hundred. It'll be fine.

Occasionally your state's DOT decides do go after private non-commercial  towed trailers inspecting same for overall condition and including lights, Should you have something as minor as a side marker light bulb you'll more than likely get a summons, that's how they work. The DOT will look at your load securement methods. If you have 1" straps securing a vehicle you're going to get "put out of service" and not be permitted to move the trailer from that spot, unless where it is presents a danger to you or other motorists and be permitted to move to the first safer location and where it sits until you have secured the vehicle with the proper 2" straps......Even frayed edges on a load strap will get you an equipment summons ...That's fact.

Ohhh and 2 safely chains , I was told the idea was to put the chains under the tongue, so that if it came off the ball it would not bury the tongue into the  “tarmac”

Is that the reason ? Or fairy tale ?

I have already worked out how to do it, I just haven't bought the straps yet.  The ONLY place to put the straps over in front is either the front or back tube of the lower control arms - or over the whole thing.  No other options.

In the back I could either do over the lower control arms or over the rear cross brace in the frame.  I'm thinking the latter, but at least I have an option there.

@chines1 - How does Mike strap it down in his trailer?

Frankly I'd rather drive it, but it has to get here soon enough.

@imperial posted:

Ohhh and 2 safely chains , I was told the idea was to put the chains under the tongue, so that if it came off the ball it would not bury the tongue into the  “tarmac”

Is that the reason ? Or fairy tale ?

The reason is so that if you come off the ball, your trailer doesn't become a runaway unguided missile.

@imperial posted:

Ohhh and 2 safely chains , I was told the idea was to put the chains under the tongue, so that if it came off the ball it would not bury the tongue into the  “tarmac”

Is that the reason ? Or fairy tale ?

Yes criss - cross the chains so in the event the coupler separates from the ball the trailer will be captured (somewhat) by the safety chains. it's still quite interesting and memorable event not to be forgotten.

Crossed safety chains WILL in fact prevent the trailer from digging in and flipping over in a BIG mess. However, if the trailer comes off the ball, be prepared for a VERY bumpy, jerky, and scary minute until you get slowed down.

You will most likely soil yourself.

@Stan Galat I've seen you strap down your car. They aren't 1" wide straps, are they? If they were I know I would have said something. Those things are rated for what, like 800 pounds?

Phil had his Spyder strapped down with them and at least three of us at Carlisle said, ummmm, you don't want to do that.

I drove Pearl onto her trailer, always nose first - That worked for my car/trailer combo.  I had a wheel chock bolted to the deck for the front wheels which would get me to the right balance point for proper tongue weight.  Drive it forward till it stops and yank up the e-brake, then take it out of gear.  That gave me about 6"- 8" gap between the driving lights and my utility box on the front.

All of my trailering of Pearl was with 3" straps, everywhere.  Short straps with steel loop ends went over the transaxle frame horns and hooked to the rear ratchet straps which  were run straight back to welded "D" loops in the decks.  My short straps were four footers.  

At the front, I used 2 short straps wrapped over the lower torsion tube and crossed side-to-side to keep it centered.

Cranked everything down till it started compressing, drove it 5 - 10 miles and re-checked the strap tension (they were often slightly loose).

If I were to do it again, I would have added more welded on "D" rings so I could use wheel nets as shown above, just for convenience, but my set-up worked really well and once it was ratcheted down nothing moved.  I didn't want the car free to move on it's suspension and that's why I did what I did and I liked it.

To @Alan Merklin's point about DOT and straps, We had stopped at a rest area in Pennsylvania years ago and when we came back from walking the dogs a guy in a uniform was looking the car over.  As I walked up (with two rabid Jack Russells on leashes) he identified himself as a PA DOT officer and told me that one of my straps was frayed a little but it was frayed after the ratchet by over six feet.  It had apparently been dragged on the ground in the past and got scuffed up.  He asked if I had another strap, and I had several extras so he told me to just use one of those instead.  He told me that, technically, I shouldn't be using it, but because it was frayed at the tail end and also neatly folded and tied off, it was a minor issue.  Since I swapped it out right then, everyone was happy and I put the frayed strap  at the bottom of the utility box.  The DOT police really aren't out to get you - They're out there to keep you safe.

I would have cut the frayed area of the strap off, then melted the end while he was standing there. No more frayed area.

I think the PA DOT guy would have walked away quietly.

@DannyP posted:

@Stan Galat I've seen you strap down your car. They aren't 1" wide straps, are they? If they were I know I would have said something. Those things are rated for what, like 800 pounds?

Lift-All web slings, 2 ft long, flat eye and eye, 1" wide. OSHA rated (and tagged) at 2400 lb vertical lift, 4800 lb basket hitch capacity. They sell them in 3 ft lengths as well.

10 bucks per, with free freight if you hit $75 (if you can't hit 75 bucks at Zoro, you just aren't trying). Thread them through the holes in the wheels, protect the wheels with a microfiber cloth, secure them in the front with a clevis and in the back with ratchet straps and Bob's your Mom's brother.

Pearl, on her Oyster- Half-Shell, almost ready for the trip north (notice the blue tape).  

I added the front chock blocks later on.  The trick before them (after trial and error) was to line the center of the rear wheel hub with the rear edge of the trailer fender for proper balance.  Too far back and it would wallow side-to-side underway.  Too far forward and there was too much tongue weight (at least for the F150 - The F250 trailering rig really didn't care).

The electric winch is hidden behind the utility box.   Chris made the trailer fenders just high enough so I could open the car doors when loaded.   Best trailer EVER!

I only winched a car on three or four times, but I quickly learned that I needed this roller gizmo for the rear of the trailer to keep the cable from riding on the frame when loading low cars.  It went on and off in seconds and could be removed, when the car's front bumper neared the rear of the trailer, to finish loading.

I miss my old trailer!!

Ain't it the truth!

@Stan Galat posted:

Lift-All web slings, 2 ft long, flat eye and eye, 1" wide. OSHA rated (and tagged) at 2400 lb vertical lift, 4800 lb basket hitch capacity. They sell them in 3 ft lengths as well.

10 bucks per, with free freight if you hit $75 (if you can't hit 75 bucks at Zoro, you just aren't trying). Thread them through the holes in the wheels, protect the wheels with a microfiber cloth, secure them in the front with a clevis and in the back with ratchet straps and Bob's your Mom's brother.

Those are very cool. They are substantial, unlike the feeble "tie-downs" I've seen people use.

@DannyP posted:

Those are very cool. They are substantial, unlike the feeble "tie-downs" I've seen people use.

Thanks. Industrial-rated straps are why I still have all 10 fingers, even if I did have a hand-surgeon on speed-dial for a few years there.

There are also these that could be very useful for somebody with a short trailer.

I've not tried them, but they look exceptionally handy. I may just get a pair to have - I  can think of a dozen potential uses for close-quarter ratchet-straps.

These are very close to what I have:

https://www.amazon.com/DKG-097...ve%2C108&sr=1-12

Along with these, close quarters would no longer be a problem:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013...TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

@Stan Galat posted:

There are also these that could be very useful for somebody with a short trailer.

I've not tried them, but they look exceptionally handy. I may just get a pair to have - I  can think of a dozen potential uses for close-quarter ratchet-straps.

I modified a set of my ratchets to secure the back end of my Speedster to the trailer. With the standard ratchet you had about one foot of tail between the ratchet and the hook. I undid the bolt that was holding the strap and shortened it up to the hook. It worked really well.

@imperial

A little late to this thread. Here is the trailer set-up I used when towing my previous VS long distances (interstate).

1. Got tow straps (8ft length) with a D-ring on one end.

2. Threaded the opposite end of D-ring strap through one of the wheel holes. To prevent strap chafing against the wheel, I used 7" length pieces of 2" wide leather belt between strap and wheel.

3. Loop the end pulled through the wheel through the D-ring then onto the ratchet portion of the tie-down strap. Ratchet strap tight to secure to trailer tie-downs.

4. Repeat this process for each wheel.

Towed our Speedster many times on long distances without issue.

Click on pic to enlarge...

I hope you find this info helpful!

@Robert M posted:

That would be something like this:

https://www.myteeproducts.com/...z-green-webbing.html

What's nice about this system is you can use the tie down points on the outside edge of your trailer so it fits any type of vehicle. Over the top of the tire straps and E-track has to be in a line for it to work best. I tried to find these earlier but posted my response before I found them.

That may have been exactly what they were. I didn’t see the ends to know if they were E-Track clips or chains/hooks, as they were already fastened. The driver just unlocked the ratchets and pulled out some slack.

The driver actually told me not to put it in gear or set the ebrake so we didn’t have to climb up on the bed to lower it. Like I said, I was amazed how stable it was.