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Wow... that olive green with tan interior and whitewalls is sure pretty!!!

... I like that Greg is now also using the ISPWest 9 bolt steering wheel hub adapter and 9 bolt wheel.. ( pictured in several cars above. ( or the older steering shaft ) in his builds.    They keep getting better and better... IMHO.  Wished I was in the market for a new car... his builds now include many of the upgrades I did over the years after I took delivery of my car from VS back in 2013... boy how time flies!!!

what a wonderful madness we all enjoy!!!

Last edited by Lfepardo
@Jon T posted:

I was told the one with whitewalls was graphite.  It was amazing, and took on a different color depending on sun angle, all while it sat still and I walk around.  

Photo 5 is aqua marine non-metallic, photo 6 aqua marine metallic (with the top up).   Every one of them looked fantastic.

Yeah, it looks like it's reflecting the sun off the tan building. I love colors like that. My (old) Alfa is like that; variously black, brown, purple and maroon.  (Factory color: Aubergine)

I was also there today. Had a Vintage Speed shifter installed. Will take  a while getting used to the different shifter position, shorter shifting throws,and higher force needed. Positive, but notchy.

Base price for turnkey Speedster (1915cc/110HP engine) is now $39,900. Makes for nice support in value of recently built VS Speedsters. Mine was delivered in November, 2019.

Not sure if gentleman I spoke to today is posting, He was a prospective buyer. Greg confirmed lead time of 10-12 months. He also noted 2332cc/!45HP engine option was a "light build" for reliability.

My trip on the 105 and 605 frewways was pleasant. No problems keeping up with traffic. Stayed in right hand lane with plenty of lane clearance most of the time. About 3,000 RPM at 70MPH. Plenty of torque in 4th gear.

Jim Ruiz-Westchester, CA-2332cc

Hey Jim, yes I think you and I chatted as we were both waiting for Greg.  I assume you pulled up in your speedy as I was standing there.  And yes I am a perspective buyer.

Because you are tall you might help me with a question (or anyone else who has dealt with the same issues).  The two speedsters I have driven, both equipped with speedster seats (slotted back), were pretty tight for me.  Getting in and out was not easy,  but that is manageable (and as I told you I smiled as I watched you unfold and basically stand up before placing a foot on the ground - everyone has their own technique!).  I am more concerned by leg room once in driving position.  Both of my knees had little room, my feet and knees had to splay outward, which made me a bit uncomfortable - physically and mentally.   Some of this would self resolve I’m sure as I fine tuned seating position and just get used to it, but I’d like to be a bit more confident with foot to pedal maneuvering, if only for emergency needs.  

So I’m wondering what your experience has been, good or bad, and what advice you have to help optimize fit.  

Im also wondering if anyone has had their seat pan lowered an inch by Greg, and if that significantly helps with room between leg and steering wheel.  

Without being able to tryout different options, it is mostly discussion.  But I wonder if I would be reasonable comfortable with standard steering while size (not the larger banjo style), removal of cocoa mats (to help put ball of foot on clutch pedal), and lower seat bed an inch (to maximize knee room).  

Thanks,

Jon

Wow, I’m glad I put my order in when I did for a VMC (on 09/28/20). The base price went up 4K and wait time increased by several months. No surprise though - the cat is out of the bag, Greg is building great cars. I’m sure he is swamped now, and with price increases in parts/supplies due to Covid, the base price had to increase at some point. VMC is definitely a busy company and I hope they keep up the great work.

@TNT there are several owners of VMC cars on here. I’m sure they will chime in at some point, or you could do a search to find more info in the meantime. Based on my research and what I have seen posted here, everyone has been pleased with their VMC cars.

@Jon T posted:

Hey Jim, yes I think you and I chatted as we were both waiting for Greg.  I assume you pulled up in your speedy as I was standing there.  And yes I am a perspective buyer.

Because you are tall you might help me with a question (or anyone else who has dealt with the same issues).  The two speedsters I have driven, both equipped with speedster seats (slotted back), were pretty tight for me.  Getting in and out was not easy,  but that is manageable (and as I told you I smiled as I watched you unfold and basically stand up before placing a foot on the ground - everyone has their own technique!).  I am more concerned by leg room once in driving position.  Both of my knees had little room, my feet and knees had to splay outward, which made me a bit uncomfortable - physically and mentally.   Some of this would self resolve I’m sure as I fine tuned seating position and just get used to it, but I’d like to be a bit more confident with foot to pedal maneuvering, if only for emergency needs.  

So I’m wondering what your experience has been, good or bad, and what advice you have to help optimize fit.  

Im also wondering if anyone has had their seat pan lowered an inch by Greg, and if that significantly helps with room between leg and steering wheel.  

Without being able to tryout different options, it is mostly discussion.  But I wonder if I would be reasonable comfortable with standard steering while size (not the larger banjo style), removal of cocoa mats (to help put ball of foot on clutch pedal), and lower seat bed an inch (to maximize knee room).  

Thanks,

Jon

As Forest Gump might have said, "I'm not a tall man.....".

There are a couple available methods for making the Speedster fit better for the taller folks. As @Stan Galat will tell you, you must first decide where you are taller; in the torso or in the legs? Taller in the torso means you can have the seat pans lowered and longer legs means you can have the seat tilted back to make it more comfortable. Since you said your knees and feet are splayed out I'm guessing your long legged. For whatever reason tilting the seat back gains you some space for your legs/knees.

I have the comfort seats and to me they take up more real estate than the slot back Speedster seats. At the furthest back position they don't touch the rear package shelf so there's also a chance you could position the rails back just a bit.

Greg is definitely the guy to talk to seeing as he's the builder and you won't be the first to have this issue. He's a tall fella and he drives them all so it can be done.

Congrats on jumping into the deep end. There's a lot of us out here. Lol

I also have the comfort seats and coco mats. I had a footrest, but removed it due to possible interference operation the clutch pedal.

There is a "big boy" clutch pedal extension kit the moves the clutch pedal 3/4 of an inch to the left. See Google for details.

I have a Nardi steering wheel. There is a smaller one available, but it would require more effort making turns when stopped, and possible making the steering more sensitive while driving.

My 356 coupe is more comfortable to drive than the Speedster. The latter is definitely not "a built for comfort" item. My legs/knees also splay out while driving. When cruising, the leg room is adequate for me. When doing lots of stop and go driving, you have to pay attention to your foot positions, and give yourself adequate time for clutching and braking.

Give the comfort seats a try. Definitely discuss your questions about seating modifications with Greg. He will tell you what can or cannot be done.

If possible, best to do some  more test driving before making any final decisions.

Hope this helps.

Agreed, Robert!  I think the lighting in that photo makes the interior look darker than it actually is.  It's a beautiful combo in person and is much easier to maintain than, ahem, some other colors.  Many of us who choose that color combo are going for the the "first of any Porsche model off the line" or "German National / F1 colors" look.

...both of which are myths, by the way.   :-)

@jprpdr posted:

My method of exiting is just the reverse of entering. Whie standing, put right foot into the cockpit, step in and slide down into seat. Getting out is pushing up with arms to a standing position, and then stepping out with left foot. Good exercise!

Oh yeah, the old "Step-In and Slide" method. I kinda remember that MOE (Method Of Entry) during the "early" years of owning my SHPEEDY. However, that was over 12 years ago, and I was still in my "pre-retirement" years with a relatively nimble body. Unfortunately, things change and, as the bumper sticker warns, "Sh*t Happens."

Now, after a hip replacement, a shoulder replacement, and a pending knee replacement...the "Step-In and Slide" has evolved into the "Step-In, Grab The Wheel, Hang On and Drop!"As for the egress, it's sure as hell not the reverse. It's more like trying to figure how to get myself out of a bear trap while sitting in quicksand. Any extraction that works becomes the MOD (Method of the Day).    

In other words, it's "Golden Years," my ass! They become more like the "Rust Years." I strongly suggest you enjoy that MOE as long as you can!

With my limited experience (four MOE attempts in total), I found it was best to lead  by stepping in with my right leg to get my knee under/around the steering wheel.  I tried the sit and swing MOE but I could not get my right leg to the right side of the steering wheel without some labored contortions.

I guess I better start doing some daily stretches and core exercises to make sure I’m ready in case I actually take the plunge and buy a speedy!  Whatever motivates you, right?

At 36... my main MOE is the step and slide... and thrown in a couple “jump in and shimmy down”... that takes some getting used to standing at 6’3” but I’m going to enjoy it any way I can.

8 months build time at 40k? Don’t get me wrong, Greg’s art pieces are worth every cent!... I’m just glad I ordered my speedster earlier last year when build time was 3 months at thousands less. But the market seems to be building on our replicas and Greg does have a business to run... and boy is it RUNNIN!

Last edited by BETTYLU356Speedster

The MOE is CSCC (Conditionally Specific to the Current Configuration), i.e., whether or not the top is up.  The MOE-TD (Top Down) was quite simply:

  1. Open door
  2. Step in
  3. Place hand on steering wheel to steady oneself (optional)
  4. Sit down

MOEx (Mode of Exit) requires the swapping of steps #2 and #4 as well as changing "in" to "out" and "sit down" to "stand up".  Step #1 must remain as the first unless you are ok with falling out over the door, thus providing ample entertainment for passers by.

The approved MOE-TU (you can figure that one out) being as follows:

  1. Open door
  2. Put right foot and leg in the vehicle
  3. Duck whilst grabbing steering wheel for stability
  4. Pull upper body into vehicle
  5. Place derriere in approved receptacle, commonly referred to as "seat"
  6. Bend left leg as much as possible and wedge in through the door opening
  7. Close door
  8. If side curtains are in place, seal properly around edges
  9. Consider how much easier this used to be

MOEx-TU is as follows:

  1. Open door
  2. Bend left leg as much as possible and wedge out through the door opening
  3. Rotate body in derriere receptacle
  4. Repeat step #2 with right leg
  5. Been over to lower head below edge of door opening in top
  6. Using all of one's strength push upper body out of vehicle
  7. Repeat steps 7-9 from MOE-TU procedure

I expect the MOE and MOEx for the Coupe to be the same as the Speedster MOE-TU and MOEx-TU respectively, with the exception that the degree of duckage (see step #3 of MOE-TU) will be reduced somewhat due to the larger opening and steps 7-9 will be omitted.

Last edited by Lane Anderson

My MOE when the top is up:

1) Put the top down.

2) step & slide

3) put top back up (Mine is power assisted

Getting out, however is never in reverse.   Getting out, I have to lean over into the passenger seat far nough to be able to get mu legs out.  Then I sit up with both feet on the ground, and then stand up... also with the top down.

@Jethro posted:

My MOE when the top is up:

1) Put the top down.

2) step & slide

3) put top back up (Mine is power assisted

Getting out, however is never in reverse.   Getting out, I have to lean over into the passenger seat far nough to be able to get mu legs out.  Then I sit up with both feet on the ground, and then stand up... also with the top down.

"POWER assisted"  That's cheating,... so "No Soup For You!"

Good tip, and yeah I’ve already thought about driving shoes.  Or at least shoes that don’t have an exaggerated heel (think mini, mini snow shoe) like the pair I was wearing when I test drove.

I’m warming up to the idea of a lowered seat pan and a 15” wheel and speedster seats to give me max leg room beneath the steering wheel.  Because the seat is lowered, the smaller wheel should hopefully not obscure the gages even if I sit tall.  And to give me better footing, I’ll lose the floor mat and make sure my shoes are appropriate.  (I would specify a vinyl heel pad incorporated into the carpet.)

But, the lowered seat pan pretty much means new build and the long wait that comes with it.  I’d probably wait just as long to find a used car with the features and colors I want and was close enough so I could try it.  I don’t think I’d ever pull the trigger on something I could not at least sit in.

A fellow SOCer has offered to let me sit in his car with a lowered seat pan, so once that works out, assuming I like it....fingers crossed.

Last edited by Jon T

My MOE is to stand with my back toward the car and sit in the seat. Then. rotate clockwise 90 degrees to bring my legs in.

That variant has other perks - spent many a year in sloppy east coast weather driving and you had to do something like that so you could kick the muck off your shoes (bang feet together) before getting in to keep the car and pedals clean. Otherwise driving in salt/mush and having slippery pedals!

@Jon T- It's looking stunning- loving it without the side trim and the holes in both the engine lid and frunk hinges are a nice touch as well!  What did you specify for wheels?  And I'm curious to see what Greg puts in the 2332's he puts in his cars- is possible to post a build sheet?  Does he give a size for the kadron carbs? And it would be interesting to know the specs of the (I believe) VM2 cam he uses- duration, cam lift and duration @ .050"?  Does he have published horsepower figures?  Engine redline?             Thanks!  Al

PS- my apologies for all the questions- I'm always interested in new type 1 engine combinations, and curious as to how much power and how high his 2332's rev.

@ALB, this is all that Greg posts on his site:



“This is a step up from our standard 1915cc aircooled engine. With an additional 30hp our 2332cc engine delivers the power with a total of 145hp. Equipped with dual 40mm Solex Kadron carburetors. This engine requires minimal maintenance and is built with 100% brand new parts including the engine case.”



Now remember, that’s SoCal horsepower, here on the East Coast that’s probably closer to 130hp.

Last edited by LI-Rick
@Jon T posted:

I stopped by VMC on Friday to peek at my build.  It is certainly getting close, maybe two or three weeks to go.

F9B49CF8-2923-4740-BC87-FF26137A256CCCDDA3F3-3E36-4221-9FAA-45DC66514A72

2332cc standing by.

50D15802-D3DD-478E-A33B-BB27959B2A6B

Here are a few shots of some other cars that looked to be nearing completion.

D32036AE-8846-46E3-A192-765A65EFA2F173CD1106-E8A6-4AD6-B582-3539FE03587B

4A7C8496-8CD7-4A83-B927-C91B6B778DB048342732-F14C-4092-AE65-C0B7CED6E293

1E03C862-2118-49E1-AC9F-B90E5341E2F896DDB808-D7CD-4BE4-A0B9-22F6DCA82C27

EB11B0FF-E8B2-46E2-BF83-B5ADBA4B1F35A99EE03A-4422-488E-B677-4DD4324BBF05530FE47E-3C89-4CDD-B70A-506DC2163065The The shop was very busy and the remodeling is still in full swing.

Such a welcome sight after all the nightmares we've read about lately that can happen with some other builders.

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