Inspection of Used CMC Turn-Key - What Should I Look For

Top paint looks nice - didn't seem to extend in on to lower roll pan though.  Missing some lower engine cooling tins.  Nice wheels.  No rear disc brakes or anti-sway bars.  Just ensure it runs good without over heating, stops, and tracks true.  Depending on price - anything can be fixed/replace/upgraded.  We call that the MADNESS.

Must be someone here near you in Pittsburg, PA that would tag along.

I've seen that car advertised for a while at $25,900.  That is the very top end of the prices for a CMC. I could only see it getting that price if it was built by a well known builder like Doc Clock or maybe had a blue-printed $10k+ monster engine with low miles.

The bonnet pics and rear deck lid pics look like there is a larger gap at the bottom of both, than there should be.  The passenger door also looks to have a large gap at the back, than the front.  This could be the butt sag problem.  But the only way to know is to see it in person.

As far as I know CMC really didn't build any turn-key cars, unless you count the example cars they displayed in a few airport terminals in the 1980s.

The carpet looks well used in the photos although it's supposed to only have 1,200 miles since built.  If it was built as turnkey by CMC, that means it has only seen 1200 miles in 30 years.  That doesn't make much sense and may be a bigger problem than if it was driven 15,000 and maintained.

I do remember this car because of the strange center console and door panels. Those were definitely not CMC options.

One of the ads also read "Similar kits start at $30,000 and that doesn't include the donor Beetle", which is outright untrue.  

Without knowing which ad you are looking at and who is the current owner it's tough to say why the ads seem to have conflicting information. 

-=theron

Did you see this one in NC for $18k?

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/cl...etail.php?id=2036134

Sent you a private message. 

Theron posted:

Without knowing which ad you are looking at and who is the current owner it's tough to say why the ads seem to have conflicting information. 

-=theron

Theron,

Here is the ad:

https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/ctd/6118642301.html

I noticed the fitment issues in the photos as well, but some of them seem to be exaggerated by shadow. I thought an in-person look would be helpful.

Eric

Who puts leather tie down straps on the rear engine lid - they go on the front hood so it doesn't fly open?  Strange top bow fix with turnbuckles.

Of course, it's always better to do a personal inspection (if you can) before buying. Think of it as an old VW (without the rust) as you're going over it- check the steering wheel for free play, grab a front wheel at 3 and 9 and shake, when driving at 65 and 70mph, does it drive straight or want to dart all over the highway? Note how the trans shifts (and if it leaks) and how the engine feels, and then (when the engine is off and a tad cooler) grab the crankshaft pulley- does it move back and forth just a hair or travel a larger amount (more than 5 or 6 thousandths of an inch, which isn't a lot) and go clunk? Turn the engine off, wait 2 or 3 seconds and start it again- does it still have oil pressure (good bearings) or is it gone and has to build it again?  I'm sure people will think of more...Al

IMHO way too much money for a wide-body.  Keep looking.

Here's one in SC that looks nice. 2300 cc T4 engine. $21k.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/cl...etail.php?id=2015538

Interesting. This car is stll available. Recently talked to seller. 

That car is no longer listed for sale.

Prices should have fallen $3-5k from June til January!  Now is time to buy - with a few winter months to address issues or customization.

$17k (NC) https://www.thesamba.com/vw/cl...etail.php?id=2079099

$17.5 (NC) https://www.thesamba.com/vw/cl...etail.php?id=2024491

$21k (VT) https://www.thesamba.com/vw/cl...etail.php?id=2111294

$30k (CA) Theron's new VS  https://www.thesamba.com/vw/cl...etail.php?id=2098793

I'm one of the newbie and had taken the plunge. Doing some adjustments and have reach out to the main folks here for wheel guidance. It's "flared" not the super wide body. 

Has the seller gotten more realistic with the asking price?

When I last talked with him he was not letting it go for less than 22k. He must have sold it for that if it's no longer for sale. 

I always thought those extra vents in engine lid looked "kit car".  I can't tell if they are actual vent holes or plastic TAIWAN Buick plastic chrome fake vents.  Body color louvers look better! The NC one I posted "needs lifter work" could be a good one to look at.  Hydraulic lifters on a T1 are not popular (not performance oriented).  Tear engine down - replace cam and lifter and inspect other parts - $400 if you don't go crazy.  I'd inspect in person with a near by Speedster owner - if you are in CA might not be viable alternative (but then Speedster are typically more $ in CA all year).

If anyone is interested in that Speedster in Vermont listed on the Samba that Wolfgang showed above, I can provide an on-site inspection in Bennington and send you a report with photos.  It's kind-of near some relatives I haven't seen in a while in Wardsboro - be a good excuse to drop in.  Besides, Hemmings Motor News comes from Bennington and we could stop there, too!  Just PM me is you're interested.

calmotion posted:

I'm one of the newbie and had taken the plunge. Doing some adjustments and have reach out to the main folks here for wheel guidance. It's "flared" not the super wide body. 

 

I must have missed it- what did you buy? Did you post pics of it?

I bought a SAS and if any one came give me heads up and gotcha plus great picture of wheels that fit would be awesome. Picture attach. 

Nice to find another home. Was a fiat owner for many years

Sooo.... tell us about it... _{(the more details the better)}

It's SAS with subi, AC, heater, ABS and mid-engine configuration. Love it so far. My last car was a head turner but this seem to a step up. 

Steve at SAS has been helpful with some of the initial question Inhad with the car. 

Calmotion,

SAS has used different Subaru platforms over the years.  At a minimum, you will likely need to pop off a hubcap, exposing the lug nuts and take some measurements, such as the number and distance between lugs.  Axles and drums are likely from a Subaru donor car.  You can Google how to measure your lug nut size/placement, such as 5 x 114.5, when searching for aftermarket wheels.  Also Google how to measure for wheel offset, backspacing, etc.    Aftermarket wheel sites will ask for specific measurements on where the center part of the wheel sits in relation to the barrel, the outer ring.  That measurement determines how close to the axle the tire sits, thus moving the tire further in or out in relation to the body.

If you are really stuck, you could try emailing Specialty Auto Sports, but he has proven to be a moving target.  If you have additional questions, you may find it helpful to start your own thread.

@calmotion

search sas, grab some popcorn or a twelve pack...

😇👍. Thanks for response. I have read similar feedback about Steve. He had been responsive from start. 

So the motor is 2.5 and he had converted the to 5x205 on all corners  it was 114 in the front and 100 in the back  

the debate was go for Fuch and converter 114 /100 to 130  Do 16x7 and 8 similar to Polynesian pop converter adds an 1 " per Polynesian   Or get rim with deep dish looks that offers them with 2 different pattern of 114/100 x 5

He'll respond until you give him some money! Lucky you bought used (I'm assuming)

Congrats and enjoy!

Yes I bought use.  Thanks again Bill for your assistance.