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Greetings all,

I have the brazilian made repro Speedster instrument panel.  The lights are so dim they are unreadable at night. I'd like to replace them.


  1. These are incandescent instrument panel bulbs, right?
  2. Do they have BA9 bases?
  3. Can I replace these bulbs with LEDs with BA9 bases?
  4. Is this a simple plug and play or will I have a resulting electrical modification to make?

Thanks in advance,


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I replaced mine gauge bulbs with LEDs from superbrightLEDs. .  Big improvement.  

it was nice to order the led  bulb color to match each of the gauges warning light color- red, green, blue... all lights now clearly visible in bright direct sunlight.

I personally kept the background lights incandescent... the bulb heat helped keep my gauges from fogging up during winter driving/ cold morning driving.

I would suggest you physically  check the size of your bulbs before you order. 0n my 356 original and Chinese repo gauges, some were B7 other B9



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Last edited by Lfepardo

Our gauges have a tendency to fog up at times, like at sunset on a humid day.  Leaving the background bulbs as incandescent provide just enough heat to (sometimes) defog the lens.   LED bulbs would not do that.  If your background is not quite bright you should look for BA7 bulbs of 7 or 9 watt to kick them up a notch.  LED background bulbs will be brighter, if that is really what you’re after, and maybe they might not fog up, anyway.

There are two or three background lamps per gauge, and every other indicator light you see has it’s own bulb.  The indicators can be replaced with LED bulbs, just get the LED bulbs for each in the color that you see from that location:  red for red, green for green, etc.

You should not need relays or any other assists for any of these bulbs to work as LEDs.  


@Marshall posted:

...tried the light switch to see if it was also a dimmer.  Unfortunately no...

Probably a blessing in disguise.

On the Chinese knockoff headlight switches found in many of our cars, the panel dimmer is the Achilles heel.

That circuit has to handle a surprising amount of power - the more you dim the lights, the more power gets dissipated by the switch. The original switches had pretty beefy rheostats to handle the load, but that was in a land far away and long ago.

My own switch literally went up in smoke the first time I tried to dim the panel lights, and VS would only send me a switch identical to that one. I ended up moving that circuit off the switch and wiring up some load resistors to dim the lights - and it took quite a few of those to spread the heat out enough to keep them from getting too hot.

Swapping in LED bulbs is a better choice.


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