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Yup, that sounds right, Mark.  There is a "drop spindle" group on here, but I honestly think they're more trouble than they're worth so the stock-height ball joint spindles are fine.  Get your front end aligned with 5-7 degrees of caster and it'll be track without bump steer.

On the 34's for carbs, I went back over this thread and didn't see what your engine is.  The 34's will be fine for a 1,600-1,776.  Anything larger and I would head for 40's or 44's.

Anybody who has Dellortos love them.  Anyone with Webers seem to tolerate them.  The EMPI are, I think, copies of the old Solex carbs.  I don't think any replicas are running real Solexes, to my knowledge.   I think Al Merklin has played with more carb combinations than most of us....Al?

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

As Gordon said, there are advantages to standard and dropped spindles. Dropped spindles lower the front 2 1/2" (which is probably close to what you'll be after; still put the adjusters on the beam, though, so you can fine tune it), you still have stock suspension travel, use stock length front shocks, haven't added any more bump steer (the angles of the tie rods haven't changed), and will only have to shim the bottom beam the minimum amount to achieve the added caster (very important if you do a lot of highway driving!). They do add a little width to the front track (1/2-5/8" a side for most sets; you'll have to ask who you buy them from the exact amount), and there are some 15" wheels (aluminum- I know some people have had troubles with getting Rivieras to fit) that don't clear the caliper without a little work, but it can be done. The bottom trailing arms can be machined so the ball joint sits just a little deeper (a pain in the *ss to find someone to do it, I know). Most rims you'll be looking at (6" width max) will probably have enough backspacing that outer fender clearance won't be a problem (unless you drop the thing wickedly low!).

Lowering the front end with stock spindles and beam adjusters- you don't have to worry about any added width, wheel or caliper clearance issues. You'll have to shim the bottom beam further forward for enough caster so the car is safe at higher speeds, though, and you'll have to monkey around with the tie rods (I think guys mount the outboard ends upside down- the spindles will have to be re-machined for this) to minimize the extra bump steer. I don't think you can get the tie rod angles all the way back to where they should be, but it will be an improvement. If you lower the car much more than 2 or 2 1/2" you'll be looking for shorter shocks. They're out there, but (as I understand it) some are not valved for such a light front end, as they're re-purposed from something else, so combined with the reduced suspension travel, the car can end up riding  quite rough.

I think I covered everything. Hope this helps. Al


I will build a solid wooden wheel around the metal ring out of layered Jatoba and maple, with a matching custom horn ring. I plan on turning Jatoba and maple to make matching knobs as well.

Art- Yup, the muffler is from Vintage (Taiwan) and the custom pipes cost me an extra $100. The valance will be cut, not the pipes!

I bought 175 Yokohama tires and Vintage 190 rims. 5 1/2" rims did not work, but the replacement 4 1/2" rims (with the same tires) fit perfectly. And yes, both sides were equally too-tight. Apparently swing axle would have worked with the 5 1/2" rims, but I have an IRS rear suspension. Thanks to Greg at Vintage for the hassle-free exchange. I will attach photos....

I am now installing the driver's seat and waiting for a steering column from Greg, and I will take the first spin before I get any further down this construction highway. By the way, this construction highway is traveling at a crawl....

Anybody have trouble with the rear hatch upside-down bedpan tray hitting the motor dog house? Another fun new problem to solve....






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A couple of thoughts on the engine cover/engine interference:

Usually it is the hinges on the engine cover hitting the fan shroud.  If THAT is what's happening, flip them side-to-side to push the arm out farther to the sides and they'll probably fit.

If it's the underside of the fiberglass cover then, Yes, you can notch the bed pan to fit.

But another thing to consider is going to the newer, better-cooling 1971 and later engine fan shroud.  It is flattened on the top so it doesn't stick up quite as much so it won't hit.  It also has a bump out on the back to accept the larger, later oil cooling tower.  You should also get the slightly larger fan to go with it. usually has good used ones plus the fan and tower.

I had issue with the engine lid hinges hitting the corners of the cooling shroud.  Easy fix was to swap the hinges from side to side and move the pivot hinges out a bit.  No interference now.  I could have used an after market shroud with the rounded shape (I see yours is rounded)  but I preferred squared (flat top) OEM later dog house shroud ('71). 

DrClock said in some of the Speedsters he redid that the pans were not welded back level but at a slight upward angle.  That's not so easy to rectify as it takes cutting PO's welds and aligning properly. I'd also look at the frame horns - as they could be bent up. 

Last edited by WOLFGANG

It is easier to set the rubber on the flat of the flat of the aluminum.  I use ALEX brand caulk (from ACE Home center) running a bead along the bottom and a circle of caulk on the edge of the two windshield post holes. I also when done I run a 1/8" bead along the cowl at the aluminum base molding , the easy way to do that is with 1/4" masking tape spaced 1/8" apart run your finger along that gap and pull the tape away promptly. Also dab a bit of caulk on the underside of each rivet that secures the bottom aluminum piece to the cowl. Alex Caulk dries flat black to match the rubber.  It is mostly latex with a bit of silicone and cleans up with just water.

Last edited by Alan Merklin

And now that you've read Alan's remedy, you too can be amazed that the combination of the bottom aluminum piece on cowl, the windshield and the big rubber gasket, all by themselves, is next to useless in keeping water where it belongs, on the outside of the car.

Do all that Alan says and it'll be tight and not leak.  Don't do it ALL and your windshield will be as water-tight as a sieve.  

Oh!  And find my write-up on installing a windshield in the resources/knowledge section.  Lots of tips from Alan and me and others to help with a successful install.  Just don't crank everything up too tight!

Sure sounds quiet!  But was waiting for a red Cabriolet to show up though.  Nit Noid - Yours is truly a Speedster and not a cabriolet.  A cabriolet would have a windshield frame like a coupe - painted same color as the car and would have wind up windows and a tall top. The Speedster, Convertible D and Roadster have different height aluminum (chrome) windshield frames.

Image result for porsche 356 cabriolet

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