Skip to main content

270B2771-64C6-42D9-BAA5-DFCF2251DED8The best machines for home leather work are singer machines from the 60”. Or 70’s

they have full metal gears not plastic and can sew leather with ease not big leathers jackets with a lot of layers 

I have bought one and sew canvas and leather all the time there are sewing machine mechanics out there too

built like tanks

forums exist in these machines 

 

 

Attachments

Images (1)
  • 270B2771-64C6-42D9-BAA5-DFCF2251DED8
Last edited by IaM-Ray

Bad drama the day before my inspection....

I (remotely) went through the Florida DMV and they would only register my CMC as a 2020 "assembled from parts" vehicle. Fine. I got insurance from Hagerty along with a temporary license plate that allowed me to drive the fifty miles to the required DMV inspection for parts-cars. The afternoon before my appointment was the first time I was legal to test drive on real roads and open up my car. After about 10 minutes, the exhaust was smoking like Thunderbird Lead! My heart sank with thoughts of bad piston rings, cylinder damage and valve guide replacement. The inspection appointment was cancelled in despair.

The car restoration guys near my warehouse looked at the smoke and said it was a carb problem, and they were right. Apparently the fuel in my Weber 34 ICT carburetors boiled and I ended up running rich with a bunch of gas in my oil. I opened the carbs up and there was a crusty residue that looked like a bad bathtub ring. I cleaned them out and checked the float levels very carefully, but he car still smoked. I checked the valves and timing, but it was the oil change that stopped the smoke. 

I will now install insulation gaskets under the carbs if there is room, and check for overheating on my next test run. The oil temp gauge shows I'm fine, but it may not be accurate. Time will tell....

IMG_1787IMG_1791

Attachments

Images (2)
  • IMG_1787
  • IMG_1791

DannyP

high fuel pressure is exactly what the pro mechanics suspected as well. I have a Carter electric pump and a Holley fuel pressure regulator. Weber specs say 2.1-2.5 psi. Mine was at 2.5 and I backed it down to 2.2. I unbolted and looked for drips coming out of the carbs with the pump running and the needle valves appeared to be doing their job.

I will post again when the thermal insulation gaskets go in.

Thanks for your input...

Mark

DannyP

high fuel pressure is exactly what the pro mechanics suspected as well. I have a Carter electric pump and a Holley fuel pressure regulator. Weber specs say 2.1-2.5 psi. Mine was at 2.5 and I backed it down to 2.2. I unbolted and looked for drips coming out of the carbs with the pump running and the needle valves appeared to be doing their job.

I will post again when the thermal insulation gaskets go in.

Thanks for your input...

Mark

But did you put an actual gauge on it? Or are you relying on the maybe right, maybe wrong numbers on the regulator? In other words, do you know the ACTUAL pressure?

I think my smoke problem is fixed! It sure looks like gas percolation in my Weber 34 ICT carbs put fuel in the oil. Oil changed, insulating gaskets under the carbs and some fuel system cleaner...and zero smoke. Not even an occasional puff.

The stubby intake manifolds do get really hot and I will look to see if overheating is an issue. But it runs great...for now.

I still have an issue with the carbs not returning to the idle stops.

F4CBE0A5-D9DD-416E-836D-CD511F9DBF17F4DB1413-B593-47FF-91B3-DE92320525785F8A10E9-756E-44AC-850E-23BA5A3D78FF

Attachments

Images (3)
  • F4CBE0A5-D9DD-416E-836D-CD511F9DBF17
  • F4DB1413-B593-47FF-91B3-DE9232052578
  • 5F8A10E9-756E-44AC-850E-23BA5A3D78FF
@DannyP posted:

Do you have ALL the tin that ducts the hot oil cooler exhaust to BELOW the tin? If not, I just found your problem for you. Many cars have that hot air blowing into the engine compartment ABOVE the tin instead of below. Cheap and easy permanent fix.

Parts numbers 8 & 9 are what Danny is referring to.  If you're missing these bits, you're not only throwing hot oil cooler exhaust into your engine compartment, it's blasting right on your pass side carb. There's also a part called a "Hover Bit" that's not shown.  OEM VW tin needs it. A lot of aftermarket parts have it incorporated into the two pieces  

image

Attachments

Images (1)
  • image

Add Reply

Post Content
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×