Just bought a "barn-find" CMC kit

Also, I'm getting ready to buy an adjustable ball joint beam and use non-lowered spindles for AC disk brakes, leading to wide 5 rims with 185/15 tires. This sound right?

Yup, that sounds right, Mark.  There is a "drop spindle" group on here, but I honestly think they're more trouble than they're worth so the stock-height ball joint spindles are fine.  Get your front end aligned with 5-7 degrees of caster and it'll be track without bump steer.

On the 34's for carbs, I went back over this thread and didn't see what your engine is.  The 34's will be fine for a 1,600-1,776.  Anything larger and I would head for 40's or 44's.

Anybody who has Dellortos love them.  Anyone with Webers seem to tolerate them.  The EMPI are, I think, copies of the old Solex carbs.  I don't think any replicas are running real Solexes, to my knowledge.   I think Al Merklin has played with more carb combinations than most of us....Al?

Do a compression check, valve adjustment, new oil, points/plugs/condenser/plug wires before adding new carbs to ensure your base is correct. 

Check out the chrome wide 5 wheels DrClock has (had?) for sale.  Or the cast aluminum Seduction Motors ones that pop up in ads to right.

As Gordon said, there are advantages to standard and dropped spindles. Dropped spindles lower the front 2 1/2" (which is probably close to what you'll be after; still put the adjusters on the beam, though, so you can fine tune it), you still have stock suspension travel, use stock length front shocks, haven't added any more bump steer (the angles of the tie rods haven't changed), and will only have to shim the bottom beam the minimum amount to achieve the added caster (very important if you do a lot of highway driving!). They do add a little width to the front track (1/2-5/8" a side for most sets; you'll have to ask who you buy them from the exact amount), and there are some 15" wheels (aluminum- I know some people have had troubles with getting Rivieras to fit) that don't clear the caliper without a little work, but it can be done. The bottom trailing arms can be machined so the ball joint sits just a little deeper (a pain in the *ss to find someone to do it, I know). Most rims you'll be looking at (6" width max) will probably have enough backspacing that outer fender clearance won't be a problem (unless you drop the thing wickedly low!).

Lowering the front end with stock spindles and beam adjusters- you don't have to worry about any added width, wheel or caliper clearance issues. You'll have to shim the bottom beam further forward for enough caster so the car is safe at higher speeds, though, and you'll have to monkey around with the tie rods (I think guys mount the outboard ends upside down- the spindles will have to be re-machined for this) to minimize the extra bump steer. I don't think you can get the tie rod angles all the way back to where they should be, but it will be an improvement. If you lower the car much more than 2 or 2 1/2" you'll be looking for shorter shocks. They're out there, but (as I understand it) some are not valved for such a light front end, as they're re-purposed from something else, so combined with the reduced suspension travel, the car can end up riding  quite rough.

I think I covered everything. Hope this helps. Al

Got the body off of the donor '74 Bug, and removed everything for sand blasting. The front beam will be replaced due to rust-through in several spots. The rest is OK. There is a dream car in these pictures somewhere...

I have built a number of speedster glad to answer questions etc. , my email   drclockATpa.net    Alan

Thanks Alan

I have already used your advice when buying stuff...

Mark

As to dream cars, yes, they all have very humble beginnings, this one esp'y.  I am reminded of the old joke about the little girl frantically digging through a room full of horseshyt. When asked why, she reported frankly that with all this horseshyt, there has to be a pony in here somewhere.

Good luck, we look fwd to seeing this Phoenix rise, as surely it will.

El Frazoo posted:

... I am reminded of the old joke about the little girl frantically digging through a room full of horseshyt. When asked why, she reported frankly that with all this horseshyt, there has to be a pony in here somewhere.

Ok, I laughed out loud at that!

Just got the rest of my parts....

"There has to be a pony in here somewhere"

Mark

Chassis shortened by Anthony of Oxford Road in Edgewater FL. Pans welded on, Raptor coated top and bottom.

Looks clean and solid!

Very nice, it's come a long way already.

much to my amazement, the engine that came with my crappy donor car actually fired up!

They're tough little buggers.......

ALB mentioned about flipping the tie rods and machining. All you need to do is drill out the tie rod holes on the spindles and install these. Pretty simple.

https://www.appletreeauto.com/TIE-ROD-RELOCATION-KIT/

Jeff

I read a bunch of your posts regarding the dreaded CMC butt sag, then welded in a brace and replaced the aluminum rivets with tapped in screws and 6 support brackets. I hope it all works...

Mating photos!

i need to cut out a slot for the tailpipes and my 5.5” wheels with 175 tires don’t fit in the back. Switching to 4.5 inch wheels.

Custom  3D emblems.

I printed one set with needles that marked duct tape. Then drilled holes and separated the letters. Did the same in the back.

Have you thought of cutting the tail pipes off and having an tight s-shaped piece bent to lower the tips below the rear valence?  Might be too close?