Just bought a "barn-find" CMC kit

5.5 wheels won't fit because of the slightly wider IRS suspension.

On my CMC with IRS I used 5.5 wheels I  got from the Beck folks. This was a long time ago. At the time I think they used these wheels on Spyders. The outside of the wheel is in the same place as a 4.5 wheel. I don't know if they still have them.

Thanks all

DIY steering wheel project

Nice.  Are you going to do a wood wrap or a segmented wheel?

Is that muffler from Vintage Speed, TW ? If so did he do the pipes?

I have no fear cutting the valance, in fact I like the look.

Were both wheels too tight on the rear wheel wells?

The car is coming along very nicely.

Lane-

I will build a solid wooden wheel around the metal ring out of layered Jatoba and maple, with a matching custom horn ring. I plan on turning Jatoba and maple to make matching knobs as well.

Art- Yup, the muffler is from Vintage (Taiwan) and the custom pipes cost me an extra $100. The valance will be cut, not the pipes!

I bought 175 Yokohama tires and Vintage 190 rims. 5 1/2" rims did not work, but the replacement 4 1/2" rims (with the same tires) fit perfectly. And yes, both sides were equally too-tight. Apparently swing axle would have worked with the 5 1/2" rims, but I have an IRS rear suspension. Thanks to Greg at Vintage for the hassle-free exchange. I will attach photos....

I am now installing the driver's seat and waiting for a steering column from Greg, and I will take the first spin before I get any further down this construction highway. By the way, this construction highway is traveling at a crawl....

Anybody have trouble with the rear hatch upside-down bedpan tray hitting the motor dog house? Another fun new problem to solve....

A couple of thoughts on the engine cover/engine interference:

Usually it is the hinges on the engine cover hitting the fan shroud.  If THAT is what's happening, flip them side-to-side to push the arm out farther to the sides and they'll probably fit.

If it's the underside of the fiberglass cover then, Yes, you can notch the bed pan to fit.

But another thing to consider is going to the newer, better-cooling 1971 and later engine fan shroud.  It is flattened on the top so it doesn't stick up quite as much so it won't hit.  It also has a bump out on the back to accept the larger, later oil cooling tower.  You should also get the slightly larger fan to go with it.

Bugcity.com usually has good used ones plus the fan and tower.

I had issue with the engine lid hinges hitting the corners of the cooling shroud.  Easy fix was to swap the hinges from side to side and move the pivot hinges out a bit.  No interference now.  I could have used an after market shroud with the rounded shape (I see yours is rounded)  but I preferred squared (flat top) OEM later dog house shroud ('71). 

DrClock said in some of the Speedsters he redid that the pans were not welded back level but at a slight upward angle.  That's not so easy to rectify as it takes cutting PO's welds and aligning properly. I'd also look at the frame horns - as they could be bent up. 

My exhaust system has been fixed. I got parts from Taiwan and tilted the muffler down 8 degrees and out 1.5 inches.

Quick question....

i have started working on the windshield, and the lower extruded rubber does not seem to work with the lower metal strip. What am I missing here? Any ideas?

thanks

It is easier to set the rubber on the flat of the flat of the aluminum.  I use ALEX brand caulk (from ACE Home center) running a bead along the bottom and a circle of caulk on the edge of the two windshield post holes. I also when done I run a 1/8" bead along the cowl at the aluminum base molding , the easy way to do that is with 1/4" masking tape spaced 1/8" apart run your finger along that gap and pull the tape away promptly. Also dab a bit of caulk on the underside of each rivet that secures the bottom aluminum piece to the cowl. Alex Caulk dries flat black to match the rubber.  It is mostly latex with a bit of silicone and cleans up with just water.

And now that you've read Alan's remedy, you too can be amazed that the combination of the bottom aluminum piece on cowl, the windshield and the big rubber gasket, all by themselves, is next to useless in keeping water where it belongs, on the outside of the car.

Do all that Alan says and it'll be tight and not leak.  Don't do it ALL and your windshield will be as water-tight as a sieve.  

Oh!  And find my write-up on installing a windshield in the resources/knowledge section.  Lots of tips from Alan and me and others to help with a successful install.  Just don't crank everything up too tight!

I can’t believe that they expect guys to use those parts that obviously don’t fit each other. I will find suitable substitutes. 

Alan's method works with the parts you have.  That is what I did with my CMC.

First drive....

so much fun!

WOO HOO!!!   @Drumagination

Sure sounds quiet!  But was waiting for a red Cabriolet to show up though.  Nit Noid - Yours is truly a Speedster and not a cabriolet.  A cabriolet would have a windshield frame like a coupe - painted same color as the car and would have wind up windows and a tall top. The Speedster, Convertible D and Roadster have different height aluminum (chrome) windshield frames.

Yes, I know it’s a Speedster. I have docked the pay of my cameraman accordingly😎

I just can’t resist 3D printing.....