*LongFella posted:Stan Galat posted:I made a stupid comment before I looked at this closely. That's pretty sweet, Longfella.
Good thing I didn't reply to the comment and keep it forever in the SOC forum. I got your back
Thanks, 'ol buddy. I'm getting so.. so...
old.
Brian GM pure white with GM Torch Red interior is beautiful in person
Fantastic! Keep up the FA20 info, seems very interesting. Drooling....
First round of sanding and sealing has started. I told my wifey how much easier the second build is going to be. I've got just a small single build of experience, but I'm sure I can do this second one a LOT more efficiently 
And I should add "a lot more cost effectively" too...
My second build zipped along a lot faster than the first, and didn't have the problems of the first, mostly because of this forum helping me along.
More Cost effective? Naaaah. Fewer mistakes, though, so maybe that helped to contain costs.
Gordon Nichols posted:My second build zipped along a lot faster than the first, and didn't have the problems of the first, mostly because of this forum helping me along.
More Cost effective? Naaaah. Fewer mistakes, though, so maybe that helped to contain costs.
He should be able to use all the same tools he bought during the first build, so I'd say t MIGHT be more cost effective. LOL
Robert M posted:Gordon Nichols posted:My second build zipped along a lot faster than the first, and didn't have the problems of the first, mostly because of this forum helping me along.
More Cost effective? Naaaah. Fewer mistakes, though, so maybe that helped to contain costs.
He should be able to use all the same tools he bought during the first build, so I'd say t MIGHT be more cost effective. LOL
That will be the big savings spot - tools. I have all that I need now to do another build AND a few extra parts I can use on this build.
Don't kid yourself, Brian; you'll do more yourself and buy more tools. It never ends. I've been playing with VW stuff for over 40 years, have a full stand up tool box, recently put a smaller one on top and I'm starting to think a small metal lathe would be neat and and I could do so much with a milling table (do you know how easy it is to drill holes in round things with a rotary fixture? I have no idea what one costs, but it's really cool!). The question is where to put them; I could move the wife's car out of the garage, but I do like being married. What to do...
Just make sure the tool box is big enough.
That might be, but I must be doing something right if I get the entire garage as my man cave 
I had to give up the rest of the house though... :/
Bottom side sanded and sealed. Flipped him over and put a THICK layer of rhino liner on the top. Once cured, I'll flip him over and do the bottom. If I recall, just this process took me a month to do. I got it done in a weekend with time to drink beer and sit in our spa now
And I even took Eleanor for a little cruise today too
Deep pans?
Stan Galat posted:Deep pans?
Not sure. I believe Greg mentioned the donor was a 72' and he added new "thicker" Brazilian pans. He also ensured everything was straight and aligned. The pans look like what I have on my Speedster...
Getting back to the dash, I can provide you with a detailed, dimensioned illustration of a gen-u-ine '55 Pre-A dash. Same one that Bob Carley, Manny in Uganda and Gary in South Africa used (and someone in Scotland, to, but I can't remember his name).
Send me a PM if you want it.
Brian, if the Rhino stuff better than POR-15?
Spray or roll on?
IaM-Ray posted:Brian, if the Rhino stuff better than POR-15?
Yes.
Thanks, Stan! I did not do a comparison between POR-15 or rhino yet. This liner stuff is pretty heavy duty. I'm sure it's adding some weight too...
If surface was prep'd/treated properly (degreased/metal prep) POR-15 would be more effective at stopping and preventing rust. It's a rust encapsulator. POR-15 takes an added top coat to protect it from UV rays. Bedliner is effective at preventing nicks from stone damage and since it is thick - it cuts down on road noise but it is heavy.
I used rubberized undercoating on a then new 1972 Porsche 914. It ended up trapping water and probably causing more rust than it prevented (I lived in NJ and No. VA). The rubberized coating separated from the metal and caused air pockets. In hind site, I did no prep other than ensure it was clean of mud/dirt. Hopefully bedliner doesn't do the same - guess prep (de-greasing) is key.
Bedliner or rubberized under coating would be good in wheel wells where stones get thrown up as it would prevent spider cracks of fiberglass and also deaden sound (but I doubt the sound deadening would be noticeable).
The bed liner sure looks nice though!
