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Looooong over due update...

Coupe body should be done with prep next week and ready for paint in a few weeks. After that, all the glass needs to be installed and then it is mounted to my chassis.

Speaking of chassis, the trans I got decided to spring a leak and drop trans fluid all over my garage floor. Some plug thingy? Not exactly sure since I am no transmission expert. I spent an hour this afternoon draining and pulling the trans out. Since I got the trans through Greg, he is being kind enough to drive to my house and pick it up. I would drive it up to him, but it is hard to get away from the house when you are managing a soon-to-be three year old! Greg for the win!

If all goes well, I will have a nice coupe painted and mounted to my rolling chassis before month end. After that, wiring and interior.. gauges.. more sound deadening... and an engine... done!

Lane Anderson posted:

Didn't happen without pictures!!!

Here's the trans after I removed it. It is with Greg now and he will get it all fixed next week. I stopped by Vintage earlier today and it is PACKED full of cars. He is really really busy. I also had a great conversation with Roland from Fat Performance - he's a very knowledgeable engine builder. I would have stayed there all day, but I had my daughter with me (she was fascinated with all the cool cars - that's my girl!).

Greg also had this 1954 beauty in his shop... WOW!

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Just got the transmission back this afternoon. I had Greg fill her up full of transmission fluid and she doesn’t leak. Time to finish the rolling chassis so that she’s ready for the body.

Body hood and deck lid are installed. Just need the doors and she’ll be ready for primer and the final prep work before paint. I’m still thing the end of month for it all to come together...

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The myth, the man, the legend @Will Hesch came through for me again! He knew I was on the hunt for a real Porsche rack like the one on my Speedster (which he also got for me). He found a nice one, had it cleaned, and powder coated gloss black to match the rims. It’s going to add a nice touch to the theme I’m going with for the outlaw build...

Looks like @MusbJim won’t be the only one with a gloss black Reuter Rack

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Love the Reutter racks!  It will look great in your coupe!

I literally just found a single grill Reutter rack two doors down in a garage sale,  neighbor asked for 75$.  I felt guilty taking it for that, and spent all Sunday helping him with his yard work... they are in their 80s and getting the house ready to sell. He said it had been hanging from the garage rafters since the mid 70s. Came with the house when they bought it. He never owned a Porsche, he has a nice collection of Jags.

Now I have two Reutter racks...I imagine after I get this single grill one cleaned/powder coated I will put my dual grill one up for sale,

Lfepardo posted:

Love the Reutter racks!  It will look great in your coupe!

I literally just found a single grill Reutter rack two doors down in a garage sale,  neighbor asked for 75$.  I felt guilty taking it for that, and spent all Sunday helping him with his yard work... they are in their 80s and getting the house ready to sell. He said it had been hanging from the garage rafters since the mid 70s. Came with the house when they bought it. He never owned a Porsche, he has a nice collection of Jags.

Now I have two Reutter racks...I imagine after I get this single grill one cleaned/powder coated I will put my dual grill one up for sale,

That is a good find! I wish I paid $75 for mine... 

Long overdue update...

Body is going to paint next week on Tuesday. I finally got a hard brake pedal - it shouldn't have taken as long as it did, but they work and there are no leaks.

Once the body is painted, headliner will go in before all the glass. Then I will bring the chassis up for everything to be married... I and REALLY HOPING I can get the coupe back in my garage by the end of June so that I can start everything else...

*LongFella posted:
Lfepardo posted:

Love the Reutter racks!  It will look great in your coupe!

I literally just found a single grill Reutter rack two doors down in a garage sale,  neighbor asked for 75$.  I felt guilty taking it for that, and spent all Sunday helping him with his yard work... they are in their 80s and getting the house ready to sell. He said it had been hanging from the garage rafters since the mid 70s. Came with the house when they bought it. He never owned a Porsche, he has a nice collection of Jags.

Now I have two Reutter racks...I imagine after I get this single grill one cleaned/powder coated I will put my dual grill one up for sale,

That is a good find! I wish I paid $75 for mine... 

...but just think Brian, how much yard-work you would've owed me had I only charged you $75...

Last edited by Will Hesch

After checking out the Reutter installations on single grill VS speedies in attendance at SLO last month, ...I decided I do have at least one of the two things I'll need to put a rack on mine: "equipment/tools" and the "skill" to accomplish the project. The one I know I've got is the equipment/tools - Ha!

Anyway, if anyone can direct me to a rack "se vende," I'd sure appreciate your passing the info on to me.  Unlike LFEPARDO, though, I'll not be doin' yardwork - way too old and infirm for that - but paying cash: U.S. cash plus 2 forms of ID.

 

 

TRP posted:

Is Greg just too busy to get to it? Problems with the prep? Equipment? Too hot?

 

Greg is crazy busy! He was out of town for a week (which he needed). Plus, a few key employees were out on vacation too.

He is doing me a huge solid, I help him out too, with this build so I don't have any concerns or issues if he needs another couple of weeks. Plus, he knows once I am done with this coupe it will get a LOT of marketing (shows, forums, etc.) - so he wants it to be perfect

Quick update on this build thread...

I’ve asked Greg to hold for a few weeks since The Dowd Clan is in the Czech Republic. We’ve been here two weeks and have another week to go (visiting family). There’s no point in Greg rushing to get things done and I’m not around to get the rolling chassis up to him.

Also, I’ve been buying and house and spending most nights at 3AM local time dealing with the back-and-forth involved. We finally got agreeemnt and we got the house. Escrow closes Aug 27th. We return the 22nd, so I’m sure you can see a bit of stress and drinking... LOL!

Speaking of pivo.... cheers!! (about five stories underground at the Pilsner Urquell Brewery in Pilzen, CZ - that’s straight from the wooden barrels baby! Unfiltered and unpasteurized from the beer gods themselves!)

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Gordon Nichols posted:

Yeah, like I’m gonna travel all the way to Eastern Europe to drink a Bud..........

Hick-town homeboy that I am, Prague has always seemed like Eastern Europe to me as well. It's not really-- it's maybe 20 miles east of Berlin, and south. It's also 100 mi or so west of Vienna, which has always seemed like a Western European capitol.

Weird aside: I started poking around on the AirBnB site the other night... and decided that one way or another, I'd really like to go to Prague, Vienna, and Budapest in the summer. This time of year seems perfect.

Enjoy yourself, Longfella.

Stan.  I've been to all three (Prague, Berlin and both Buda and Pest (both sides of the river) as well as Istanbul (again, both sides).  

Go.   Please go.

Take one of the many river cruises, or just go there, find a guest house and hang out.  Don't forget to stop by Salzburg, too - you won't regret it, any time of the year (but Christmas is extra-special).  If you can get to Istanbul, THAT would be wicked-awesome, too! (But I'd personally go to Salzburg first).  There is so much history over there from so many early cultures that you feel like a sponge, just soaking it all up and when you return home you're dismayed at how much has leaked out of your head.

Have breakfast at a small cafe and meet locals.  They will be thrilled to speak with you and learn about you and share their cities with you.  Ask them for cool things to do.  Become a part of their culture (I know....You've already done this).  

I was once in Prague for a business conference/meetings and ended up "being delayed" at the end of the conference and "had" to spend a weekend there.  I was escorted about the city by a potential customer and thoroughly enjoyed the visit as we found out-of-the-way places and even some relatives.  

I would go back in a heartbeat.

Every single bit of advice, encouragement, and enthusiasm that everyone has offered regarding these cities is, in my humble opinion, spot on! I have had the great privilege of piloting magnificent flying machines across the Atlantic to Europe for almost three decades now for a living (hence the ‘30West’ moniker: 30 west longitude is the approximate midpoint for typical routing across the Atlantic). I have been very blessed to have become very familiar with many of the cities you speak of.

I can’t tell you how many great conversations and enduring friendships started with a simple, thirsty guy (me) wandering into some random pub just looking for a pint while exploring the local landscape, and probably off the beaten path! I have always found folks of all kinds of varied backgrounds to be generous, gracious, and eager to engage. Conversations are lively, fascinating, and highly entertaining. The scenery ain’t bad, either!!

And like Stan’s wife Jeanie, my wife has threatened to just wholesale up and move to the Amalfi Coast - and has even invited me to go with her!!

- Brent 

Ok, bringing it back to a build thread

After three weeks in Czech, bought a house while abroad (came home Wednesday, final walk-through Thursday, signed loans docs and got keys Friday), moved the following weekend, jumped on a plane to Utah for two days this past week... Greg an I finally caught up... Coupe is getting painted this weekend!

My goal is to have the coupe body mounted and back in my garage by the end of this month. I should have the garage finally organized and ready to continue building the outlaw coupe for the wifey...

On a side note... a HUGE THANK YOU to @MusbJim for helping me out. He took some time over Labor Day weekend to help trailer my coupes rolling chassis to the new house. It was also a nice little road test to make sure nothing fell off or broke... LOL!

 

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Update... update... update...

A HUGE shot out to @MusbJim - he is the man. Period. He is the coolest of cool cats. On a moments notice, he was able to swing by the house this morning and help hitch the completed rolling chassis to Greg at Vintage Motorcars for the well waited joining of the body and chassis. Finally!!! Greg and I have a solid plan for the carpet, headliner, interior, etc... It will be nice to have Whitewalker home and spend time in my garage working on it...

It has been a few months since I have stopped by and talked to Greg. He is SUPER busy, but the quality of work at his shop is amazing. He has made some amazing improvements - the little details that mean the most (at least to my OCD).

Side note: It was nice to see the rolling chassis handle some speed on the freeway and not have any issues/problems. Guess I am getting good at this "building" thing. I'm certainly not a Greg or Dr. Clock, but I learned from both and several more on this forum

Got a big box of parts yesterday from Greg. Always great seeing his shop and Team plugging away.

Pics of the gauges... these are Greg's new ones... even the small gauges are his design/custom for him... they are gorgeous!!

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Once I finish sound deadening the interior, all electrical will be run, lights, battery, frunk and engine painted like my Speedster... year end goals...

After that, it will head to have the carpet custom cut and installed. Then I get all the interior pieces... finally stage is engine choice and fuel pump...

I am really hoping my wifey is driving this Coupe up to SLO in 2019

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IaM-Ray posted:

Are they VDO guages?  I wonder how the lighting is at night.

Not sure. I'd have to ask Greg - they are his design/build - not sure where he sources them from.

The smaller gauges have LED lights. The larger ones don't have the little lights in them, but I will likely go LED like the smaller ones.

I have the Beck gauges in my Speedster. I like them, but the regular lights are too dim at night... so I will replace those with LED too.

I have the Beck/IM guages as well and yes they are a bit dim... Marty has LED's green and very bright. 

I believe there are incadescent bulbs you can get now, that are brighter and will allow your rheostat to work and dim the instruments.  

The LED's are usually undimmable for the most part with the standard rheostat, unless you have more electricity skills. 

Yes I was mostly concerned about the Tach and Speedo.

I often look at this setup, pict below,  it just keeps all the guages in one spot.  I am a bit nervous about doing this myself on my set up but it would be nice to have some auxiliary guages at times with a bit more precision than the standard temp guage. 

Oil temp would be nice, as well as water temp in my case.

I just added Cruise Control and it is awesome on the 4 lane highways.

I often think of building a coupe but I need to experience on first then I can deal with getting it north of the border.  Another challenge.  Keep going your cars look awesome.

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 @*LongFella  I don't know if you're interested in this, but I have attached the dimensions for an original 1955 Pre-A speedster dash that lives about a mile from me.  Maybe they will give you some ideas of layout and spacing so you can go from there.  They are the same photos that Bob Carley used on his IM-6, as well as Gary Bloom and Manny and a few others outside of the 'states.   Happy Building!   gn

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Last edited by Gordon Nichols
AllnuttS posted:

Brian,

I see you notched the back above the shift coupler. Wasn't there a 2x2 steel horizontal tube running across there in the coupe?

Stephen

There is a 2x2, but it is not that far into the interior. I notch that spot, add a hinge, and stop so that I can access the coupler later on (if needed). I do that same where the opening is on the opposite side of the pedal assembly...

Once the foam insulation is cured, I will clean it up and cover it all with the sound deadening material. Like my Speedster, it seals the sh#$ out of the interior so that nothing from outside can get in. I also use an adhesive caulking (think liquid nails on crack) on the exterior seams where the body was attached to the pan. I then use the truck bed liner stuff and paint roll over it. The entire underside (including the body) will have the truck bed liner. It takes forever, but it looks great and seals everything nicely. It is the same stuff I used to cover the entire pan before the body was installed...

*LongFella posted:
AllnuttS posted:

Brian,

I see you notched the back above the shift coupler. Wasn't there a 2x2 steel horizontal tube running across there in the coupe?

Stephen

There is a 2x2, but it is not that far into the interior. I notch that spot, add a hinge, and stop so that I can access the coupler later on (if needed). I do that same where the opening is on the opposite side of the pedal assembly...

Do you have (or can you take) a good pic of that, Brian? I have that issue with my car and before the trans goes back in I'd like to do something there. I have an adjustable coupler on the end of the shift rod and getting that all undone to pull the trans out was a bear. I have an idea for a solution but it involves welding so I'd like to see what you did. Thanks in advance. Al

I made the same cut-out over the shift coupler in my car.  But, rather than hinging the original piece I took a thin piece of aluminum sheet metal and cut it the appropriate size to overlap the cut-out by about 1/2 inch on all sides.  Then I bent the flat aluminum sheet metal to fit over the cut-out.  I used the front edge of the area adjacent to the cut-out to bend the piece with the correct radius.  I secured the sheet metal over the opening using the  same tape that you’re using for your sound deadening.  It makes a tight and waterproof seal.  

I chose not to hinge because this access will only be used occasionally (hopefully) and once the tape is cut around the edges, the piece can be completely removed for maximum access to the coupler.  

Just a suggestion.  

Mine looks just like what James describes, and rather than hinging it and all that goes with THAT decision I just screwed it right to the fiberglass and flopped the carpet back over it.  Done.

Someone also mentioned having a service access panel on the other side of the tunnel across from the pedal cluster.  I did that, too, and it makes servicing the clutch cable super-easy.......Whenever I remember that the panel is there.  Old habits die slowly.

ALB posted:
*LongFella posted:
AllnuttS posted:

Brian,

I see you notched the back above the shift coupler. Wasn't there a 2x2 steel horizontal tube running across there in the coupe?

Stephen

There is a 2x2, but it is not that far into the interior. I notch that spot, add a hinge, and stop so that I can access the coupler later on (if needed). I do that same where the opening is on the opposite side of the pedal assembly...

Do you have (or can you take) a good pic of that, Brian? I have that issue with my car and before the trans goes back in I'd like to do something there. I have an adjustable coupler on the end of the shift rod and getting that all undone to pull the trans out was a bear. I have an idea for a solution but it involves welding so I'd like to see what you did. Thanks in advance. Al

Here are some pics. There’s a good amount of distance between my cut out and where the 2x2 is. The foam is nice because it expands and gets all the way back there. It’s easy to shape too...

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IaM-Ray posted:

Brian, is the body standing many inches away from the frame.  I have never seen this close up, having never had a pan speedster.   Is any cushioning needed or do you just fill it hoping it will never move at all?  

Cushioning? Not sure what you mean??

If sealing... I can only speak for the two of mine I've built/building, but there is (in some areas) a gap that requires some sealant. Not all pans are the same. The body and sub-frame within are usually the same... they just don't line up 100% to the pan... because the pans are all different in some shape or form...

I personally make it a point to seal the sh^& out of every spot the body meets the pan... and then use dyno-mat type stuff to seal and sound deaden it more... and then add some polyester material to sound deaden it even more... and some expanding foam... and more sound deadening material...

All of that adds weight too

Ray:  The original VW had a body/pan sealing gasket that, in cross section, looked like a small dog bone, maybe 1-1/2" wide.  It was very effective, but as Brian mentioned, there are a lot of differences between the donor pan mating surface and the speedster body frame causing gaps here and there needing something extra - The VW body and pan fit together really closely, the speedster frames, not so much.

Before we had the benefit of this forum, I assembled one car without that gasket, using only LOTS of silicon caulk instead, followed a few years later with lots of foam (Great Stuff) to finally seal things up.  After the forum, the next car got a base of silicon, then that dogbone gasket followed by another thick layer of silicon and then mating the body and THEN followed with more foam (Great Stuff).  Unfortunately, Dr. Clock finished that car so I don't know how effective all that work was (and all those tubes and tubes of silicon caulk).

 

Last edited by Gordon Nichols
Gordon Nichols posted:

Ray:  The original VW had a body/pan sealing gasket that, in cross section, looked like a small dog bone, maybe 1-1/2" wide.  It was very effective, but as Brian mentioned, there are a lot of differences between the donor pan mating surface and the speedster body frame causing gaps here and there needing something extra - The VW body and pan fit together really closely, the speedster frames, not so much.

Before we had the benefit of this forum, I assembled one car without that gasket, using only LOTS of silicon caulk instead, followed a few years later with lots of foam (Great Stuff) to finally seal things up.  After the forum, the next car got a base of silicon, then that dogbone gasket followed by another thick layer of silicon and then mating the body and THEN followed with more foam (Great Stuff).  Unfortunately, Dr. Clock finished that car so I don't know how effective all that work was (and all those tubes and tubes of silicon caulk).

 

The gasket helps, but there will almost always be a little gap.

 

Here is the stuff I use on all the seams inside and out...

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Robert M posted:

@*LongFella I used the same stuff after I took out my carpet to put in the subwoofer. I heated mine with a heat gun and used a roller to really make the stuff stick. I'm sure I don't have to tel you how to do this since this is your second car.

The heat gun is essential, especially when doing the roof or up under the dash.

But damn the heat gun tip gets hot - got a little love bit’s from it today...

*LongFella posted:
Robert M posted:

@*LongFella I used the same stuff after I took out my carpet to put in the subwoofer. I heated mine with a heat gun and used a roller to really make the stuff stick. I'm sure I don't have to tel you how to do this since this is your second car.

The heat gun is essential, especially when doing the roof or up under the dash.

But damn the heat gun tip gets hot - got a little love bit’s from it today...

I'm not gonna ask how bad it was...

*LongFella posted:
IaM-Ray posted:

BTW, there is a Bug restorator in NJ that uses roofing tar paper to sound insulate all his cars and he says it does a great job, does not smell and is very inexpensive.

 

I think it is this

That’s similar to what I’m using. I think mine is called Peal and Seal. Cheap at Lowe’s and works perfectly. Thickness is good too and it doesn’t smell at all...

Will this roof stuff work equally as well in say, the door cavities?

thanks,

Art

Art posted:
*LongFella posted:
IaM-Ray posted:

BTW, there is a Bug restorator in NJ that uses roofing tar paper to sound insulate all his cars and he says it does a great job, does not smell and is very inexpensive.

 

I think it is this

That’s similar to what I’m using. I think mine is called Peal and Seal. Cheap at Lowe’s and works perfectly. Thickness is good too and it doesn’t smell at all...

Will this roof stuff work equally as well in say, the door cavities?

thanks,

Art

Yes. The key to install is using a heat gun. You need to heat the base enough so that it becomes slightly soft. Use a paint roller to press it in. Done.

I did the roof of my coupe a few days ago and you can’t get it off...

 

Art posted:
*LongFella posted:
IaM-Ray posted:

BTW, there is a Bug restorator in NJ that uses roofing tar paper to sound insulate all his cars and he says it does a great job, does not smell and is very inexpensive.

 

I think it is this

That’s similar to what I’m using. I think mine is called Peal and Seal. Cheap at Lowe’s and works perfectly. Thickness is good too and it doesn’t smell at all...

Will this roof stuff work equally as well in say, the door cavities?

thanks,

Art

I have it in my doors and it works well. As stated above, use a heat gun to soften it up. Sticks like the dickens after that.

Updates from over the holidays...

99.9% of sound deadening is done. Only spot left is inside the doors and will take 10 mins to do. Next step: complete underside coating of truck bed liner (same stuff I used for the pan). The underside has already been sealed.

After the above is complete: run the wiring harness, gauges, lights, battery, gas tank, emblems, etc... shouldn't take too long since I've done it all before...

Then off to the upholster. Rather then get the carpet kit like I did the Speedster, I am having the kit cut/fit specifically to the car... should turn out a lot nicer...

Once that is done... off to Greg for the glass to be put in... 

I am really hoping this all done before SLO so my wifey has something to drive too

Brian

Awesome job on the real car.  You may now join Anand and I in the ranks of the Super clean and meticulous club.. Welcome aboard. 

Ps. Santa was good to you!!!   I know that LEGO Porsche retails for $51,000...

Every time I look at the price of those LEGO’s I am amazed about how much they cost!...

I know for a fact Pat Downs son has about 2.2 million dollars worth of them.. 

 The sad reality?   They still hurt like hell when you step on them !!!

Much love

tebs

Teby S posted:

Brian

Awesome job on the real car.  You may now join Anand and I in the ranks of the Super clean and meticulous club.. Welcome aboard. 

Ps. Santa was good to you!!!   I know that LEGO Porsche retails for $51,000...

Every time I look at the price of those LEGO’s I am amazed about how much they cost!...

I know for a fact Pat Downs son has about 2.2 million dollars worth of them.. 

 The sad reality?   They still hurt like hell when you step on them !!!

Much love

tebs

I made the ranks! YEAH BABY ! ! ! ! !

*LongFella posted:
mppickett posted:
*LongFella posted:

Here’s a pic of my Speedster engine bay with the same stuff. It looks really nice IMO...

 

I agree. That's going on the list for my build!

I do two coats. Let the first set overnight and roll on the second...

Since I only did my engine bay I used the spray on. I still did multiple coats. 

Good news and bad news. Bad news: I won't have Wihitewalker done before the SLO cruise. It has been very hard finding time - it was easier when the little one was still crawling around... now that she turns 4 today (crazy!!!)... my attention is with her more as it should be.

Good news: I was able to get away for a few hours and hang out with Greg and his crew yesterday. He helped do a quick oil change and once over before the SLO trip. He also found a slow leak of trans fluid at the end of the driver side swing axle. Of course, knowing that Greg is the man and a HUGE help, he fixed that for me too

Can't say it enough, Greg and is Crew are amazing and really help the love of this maddening madness.

And... my gas gauge decided to stop working... somehow... the ground wire got cut underneath the tank... his Crew made a quick repair too

Eleanor is ready for the big drive! See you all in SLO

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And maybe I shouldn't post this... but I will anyways... LOL! Greg worked on a super-secret 2110cc engine combo that I heard is one bada@@ set-up I think I found the engine for the Coupe

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Man. I’m feeling the lack of love for my Coupe build at the moment. Haven’t had time to do much. As the daughter gets older, the less time I have in the garage.

On a positive note, Santa came a bit early for my amazing wifey. 2020 Porsche Macan S (fully spec’d out). Dolomite Silver ext and black full leather int. She deserves it and more! New addition to the car family:

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Robert M posted:

@*LongFella

You're long overdue for an update no matter how small.

You are right good sir 😕

Lots going on in the House. Little one is turning 5 😳 and she’s going on 16, so that’s been the focus. Head Coach for her soccer team and now she is playing softball. Time in the garage has been limited. Last time I took the Speedster out the muffler can blew apart. Been working with Greg to try and get my Speedster up to his shop so that he can make a replace can with something a little more durable (he built the custom exhaust for me so it’s nice that he is taking care of everything. Coupe hasn’t sene much progress and I’m likely going to just give it to Greg and have his Team finish it all up since I don’t have much time anymore.

On a positive note, I couldn’t let my wifey be the only person with a daily driver Porsche. So I found this beauty down in San Diego. PCA owned, two owner, a rare “Launch Edition” (yes, the VIN code has a special lunch code for the first very few model 997.2), 2009 Porsche 997.2 C4S with only 49k on the ODO. Nothing like the a@@ of a C4S. Full records, well maintained, garage kept, and just halls a@@. I slapped new tires on, completed the 50k, and checked the OBD (I have the cable and software to run diagnostics on the car). No over revs and no codes. Just perfect. The 997.2 IMO are the last of the true “drivers” care before electronics took over.

In true LongFella fashion, I ripped the Center muffler out, straight piped it and added the “gundo mod” which slightly bypasses the two side mufflers. It’s sounds like a flat six should! Just rips through the PDK 7-speed.

Hope you all enjoy the update! The LongFella Family is still around and kicking. We do have this years SLO blocked in our calendar. Just need to get the room reserved. Hoping the coupe is done, if not, I’ve got the Speedster and maybe the wifey can drive the C4S ;-)

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@RacerX posted:

That Coupe is so sanitary! What interior color are you going with?

 

Brian in Murrieta

My wifey and I are/were big GoT fans, so we named the Coupe "Whitewalker"... That being said, I am using the color scheme from the Whitewalker character.

White, black, grey, and blue

Exterior: White with black accents (luggage rack and rims are black, minimal trim to no trim - might do bumpers with fog lights with blue lights)

Interior: Grey german sq. weave, blue leather (door panels, seats, etc.) - the shifter is white, steering column is white, knobs are black, shifter knob is black...

01637898-D0F1-4F93-95D7-CDEC6E679D73DEC67B7F-17E8-4C30-AAEE-5A7238E54367BA7A54C9-53C8-48DC-AFDD-864D441B153F1C784918-8605-4A96-8B92-F2401409711BF9B50B6D-36D4-4FAF-BB23-3DD893CBEEA5F4C1B483-DFBA-49DF-8E54-A3999FAA0995It’s been to long, but I do lurk on the site from time to time. I‘ve been tracking @arajani build. Like him, I work in Healthcare and this year has been a little sideways to say the least.

Thought I’d share a few pics. I got her shoes on and moved her outside since I am finally getting the garage finished up. Once that is done... yes I’ve said this before... I’ll get to work on finishing this thing!!!

In the meantime, enjoy the pics of the first time she has been outdoors with tires on next to my daily and Eleanor... LOL!

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@TRP posted:

Bryan!  

What's the hold up on that coupe? Looking good!  Be careful calling that car Elanor or maybe you're okay because it's not a mustang

I hope you and the family are doing well!

Ted

Family is doing great - thank you for asking!

Hold up on the Coupe is really just finding the time to get it done. There are some things I would like to do, but likely don't have to expertise so that means reaching out to Greg and asking for help/doing work.... then that means finding the time to get the Coupe up to Greg's and back... fitting in his busy a@@ scheduled... etc, etc, etc...

My Speedster is Eleanor... the Coupe is called Whitewalker ;-) Got it's name from Game of Thrones and the "whitewalker" character... that is where I got the idea for the color theme (white, black, blue, grey)...

@Phisaac

Paul, we were over on Shell Point (our house was the last house out on the point) near the intersection of the "Savannah Highway" and Parris Island Gateway from 2005 to 2014.  Loved it there.  The Beaufort car club bought their place on Middleton, St. around 2009 or so, bought by a group of several members.  They still all get together there every Friday evening unless they're having a cruise-in at Grayco Hardware on Lady's Island.  The club Oyster Roasts in February are legendary.

@Robert M posted:

@*LongFella We're going to need to see more photos of the garage, not just the bar.

I'm sure most remember the poster from one of our cruises. The other framed documents are from my Mom. They recently relocated and when cleaning their house here in SoCal we find my grandpa's receipt from his (and the family's first ever) Porsche. I guess I know where I get the Porsche love from! I never met my Mom's Dad as he passed away before I was born :-( Regardless, my Mom told me he had a huge love of Porsche's and so I know now where I get it from :-)

For those wondering, the first Porsche in the family was a 1973 Porsche 911T purchased at Allred Porsche in Glendale, CA. I've been on a mission to find the exact Porsche... or find the same year/make/model to add to my growing collection...

6AF451C1-D67C-44DD-8195-EF0A6517426676A2AD0F-C5E4-4B87-8B0B-DAC79D18C54D need to get more wall art...

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Something cool for garage walls.... when I was teaching auto shop one of the kids suggested we borrow  an old style overhead projector from the local Library. After projecting a lot of different Speedster photos onto a large blank white wall we found the perfect one, while I was over teaching  another class they followed the projected image with carpenter's pencils. I walked back into the shop looked at it and shook my head as they had traced a.... RIGHT Hand Drive Speedster as a joke ! I told them leave it and let's see how many ppl even notice,  then the kids painted the image entirely in black and did some accents in grey but didn't  fill in the image with colors. ... What a great conversation piece wall mural !  Longfellow your daughter would love painting within the lines :~)

Something cool for garage walls.... when I was teaching auto shop one of the kids suggested we borrow  an old style overhead projector from the local Library. After projecting a lot of different Speedster photos onto a large blank white wall we found the perfect one, while I was over teaching  another class they followed the projected image with carpenter's pencils. I walked back into the shop looked at it and shook my head as they had traced a.... RIGHT Hand Drive Speedster as a joke ! I told them leave it and let's see how many ppl even notice,  then the kids painted the image entirely in black and did some accents in grey but didn't  fill in the image with colors. ... What a great conversation piece wall mural !  Longfellow your daughter would love painting within the lines :~)

@Alan Merklin any picture of that wall 😎. Very cool.

@*LongFella have the same parking sign in my garage given by my daughter. 👍

I've realized my limit (at least for the time being) - a daily driver  "toy" I can work on and a weekend "toy" I can work on. That's it. No more. Knowing Eleanor is going to a good home, it is time to use the time I spent on Eleanor now on Whitewalker

So I need an engine...

Two options (please chime in):

- 2110cc (same that was in Eleanor which is AWESOME). Greg also does a 2275cc? Might work too

- Type 4 (not sure on "cc's" yet)



I'm almost thinking of pulling the transmission out and re-gearing it. Greg at VM uses a set of gears that works really well (not sure exactly what the gearing is - he can tell you).

No 5-speed @ALB

Are you really able to go either way?

... because all else being equal (and this is coming from a guy who's had no less than 6 different T1 combinations), there's no question where I'd go--

T4

all

the

way

But, it's never really equal. A big T4 is looooong money.

If you really were happy with your T1 2110, then by all means-- get a T1 2110. It'll be WAY cheaper than a big T4. And really-- if you aren't going to get a big T4, there's zero point in getting a T4 at all.

@*LongFella posted:

I've realized my limit (at least for the time being) - a daily driver  "toy" I can work on and a weekend "toy" I can work on. That's it. No more. Knowing Eleanor is going to a good home, it is time to use the time I spent on Eleanor now on Whitewalker

So I need an engine...

Two options (please chime in):

- 2110cc (same that was in Eleanor which is AWESOME). Greg also does a 2275cc? Might work too

- Type 4 (not sure on "cc's" yet)



I'm almost thinking of pulling the transmission out and re-gearing it. Greg at VM uses a set of gears that works really well (not sure exactly what the gearing is - he can tell you).

No 5-speed @ALB

A type 4 the same size as a big type 1 is substantially more money and is a bit heavier (30? 40? lbs) than a type 1 but is a better platform for a 2 liter + engine, potentially running noticeably cooler and being less 'finnicky' than it's type 1 counterpart. It's also easier to go supersize- 2500 cc's and larger.  That said- you already know a 2110 can be one heck of a fun engine.  A 2275 (with another 20 or 30 hp) will be even more incredible, and with attention to detail- a proper tune and maintenance, enough air intake into the engine compartment, and not bagging the crap out of it constantly from the moment it's started to when it's turned off, even a 2275 can live a reasonably long, happy life. 

IIrc Greg is fond of a custom mainshaft (which shortens the 1-2 shift considerably) along with aftermarket 3rd and 4th gears paired with a 3.88 r&p.  You can get similar performance with a 3.44 and stock gears for substantially less money, the difference being you don't get the close 2nd gear (but there's a big hunk of cash still in your pocket).  In the end it's a trade off- how much do you really want to spend?

AT the end of the day for me it's how many miles are you gonna drive it? That is the most important question you need to ask yourself. If it's a toy, chances are the mileage will be LOW

LennyC has a 2270 type4. It will probably outlast every single one of us. It's built well, not overstressed at all, and puts out tons of torque and over 150 hp. Probably the perfect Speedster motor.

A 2110 type1 will do almost the same. 90.5 cylinders stay round, which is why a LOT of you get them.

A 2276 type1 is the same stroke as a 2110 with 94 cylinders. I am building one now for a 550(not mine). The 94mm cylinders last 40,000 miles. Personally I won't spend 3.5k on Nickies. It's all about the cost/benefit ratio. I can buy 2 sets of Mahle 94s, drive 80k, and have a LOT of change left in my pocket. Even if I had someone else re-do the top end for me.

Right now I'm installing EFI on my 2165cc type1. I'm totally comfortable with carbs. It's the challenge for me. Anyway, I figure I'll end up with the reliability of a Subaru, but I'll still have to adjust the valves once a year, as well as change the oil. Really not a big deal at all, that.

Last edited by DannyP

The world wants and needs something to bridge the gap between a "commodity 2110 T1" and a Subaru.

95% of what people are no longer willing to deal with in regards to a T1 can be resolved with EFI and crank-fire ignition. Right now, if you want to head in this direction, it means learning/doing it yourself. This is a learning curve that is too steep for most people not interested in becoming an automotive engineer. Parts are sourced from all over. This part doesn't play with that ECU. The people doing it speak in tongues on forums explaining what they are doing.

"Oh! You wanted a second stacked MAP sensor so you can make corrections for barometric pressure, that's EASY."

"You really want a wide-band O2 sensor, but the ECU is set up for narrow-band (1, 2, or 3 wire). No worry, there's an interface board for that. All you need to do is solder a harness and pot the board in epoxy, and Bob's your uncle!"

"You really need to download Tuner Studio-- then you can make real-time changes to your spark and ignition maps on the fly. It's so easy a undergrad coder could do it!"

BTW, all of that (^) was serious.

It doesn't change the fact that people really DO want somebody else to put a nice package together for them-- they'd like to drop off the car with a "normal" T1 engine, and come back a month later and pick up a car that starts, idles, and pulls without flat spots or farts in any weather, running any fuel. They don't want to  play with the spark map, or need to look for ethanol-free gas-- they just want to get in and drive. Hearing the straight-cut gears or the unique burble of the exhaust is fine-- just please, for the love of all that's good, give them some reliability.

That doesn't need to be a Subaru with the attendant addition of the entire water-cooling system. A nice, standalone EFI system for T1 engines is overdue. It's a fantastic business to be in, as Mario Vellota has proven. There's nobody else, really.

I realize I'm heading off on a tangent, but I've been thinking a lot about this recently.

@DannyP: This seems like an ideal retirement business for somebody with your particular skillset. Go get 'em, tiger.

@DannyP posted:

AT the end of the day for me it's how many miles are you gonna drive it? That is the most important question you need to ask yourself. If it's a toy, chances are the mileage will be LOW

LennyC has a 2270 type4. It will probably outlast every single one of us. It's built well, not overstressed at all, and puts out tons of torque and over 150 hp. Probably the perfect Speedster motor.

A 2110 type1 will do almost the same. 90.5 cylinders stay round, which is why a LOT of you get them.

A 2276 type1 is the same stroke as a 2110 with 94 cylinders. I am building one now for a 550(not mine). The 94mm cylinders last 40,000 miles. Personally I won't spend 3.5k on Nickies. It's all about the cost/benefit ratio. I can buy 2 sets of Mahle 94s, drive 80k, and have a LOT of change left in my pocket. Even if I had someone else re-do the top end for me.

Right now I'm installing EFI on my 2165cc type1. I'm totally comfortable with carbs. It's the challenge for me. Anyway, I figure I'll end up with the reliability of a Subaru, but I'll still have to adjust the valves once a year, as well as change the oil. Really not a big deal at all, that.

I put about 4900 miles in 3 years on the Speedster. So I am hardly driving it and I am far from heavy footed pushing the engine. At the rate above, it would take me... ~24 years to get to 40,000 miles in the Coupe (it is early so my math could be wrong)... LOL!

Greg does have a 2276cc(?) option. I am dropping the Speedster off there this morning. The new buyer is going to have him add a few things. Gives me a chance to catch up with Greg - it has been a few months...

@Stan Galat posted:

The world wants and needs something to bridge the gap between a "commodity 2110 T1" and a Subaru.

95% of what people are no longer willing to deal with in regards to a T1 can be resolved with EFI and crank-fire ignition. Right now, if you want to head in this direction, it means learning/doing it yourself. This is a learning curve that is too steep for most people not interested in becoming an automotive engineer. Parts are sourced from all over. This part doesn't play with that ECU. The people doing it speak in tongues on forums explaining what they are doing.

"Oh! You wanted a second stacked MAP sensor so you can make corrections for barometric pressure, that's EASY."

"You really want a wide-band O2 sensor, but the ECU is set up for narrow-band (1, 2, or 3 wire). No worry, there's an interface board for that. All you need to do is solder a harness and pot the board in epoxy, and Bob's your uncle!"

"You really need to download Tuner Studio-- then you can make real-time changes to your spark and ignition maps on the fly. It's so easy a undergrad coder could do it!"

BTW, all of that (^) was serious.

It doesn't change the fact that people really DO want somebody else to put a nice package together for them-- they'd like to drop off the car with a "normal" T1 engine, and come back a month later and pick up a car that starts, idles, and pulls without flat spots or farts in any weather, running any fuel. They don't want to  play with the spark map, or need to look for ethanol-free gas-- they just want to get in and drive. Hearing the straight-cut gears or the unique burble of the exhaust is fine-- just please, for the love of all that's good, give them some reliability.

That doesn't need to be a Subaru with the attendant addition of the entire water-cooling system. A nice, standalone EFI system for T1 engines is overdue. It's a fantastic business to be in, as Mario Vellota has proven. There's nobody else, really.

I realize I'm heading off on a tangent, but I've been thinking a lot about this recently.

@DannyP: This seems like an ideal retirement business for somebody with your particular skillset. Go get 'em, tiger.

That's the spirit Stan, go for it DannyP,  " Piperato Aircooled Tech", fuel injected systems.

@Stan Galat posted:

The world wants and needs something to bridge the gap between a "commodity 2110 T1" and a Subaru.

95% of what people are no longer willing to deal with in regards to a T1 can be resolved with EFI and crank-fire ignition. .

@DannyP: This seems like an ideal retirement business for somebody with your particular skillset. Go get 'em, tiger.

You got it right again. It's a pleasure to hop in and just drive without worrying. The technology is there, it can be installed so it doesn't look foreign in the engine bay and I think a lot of folks would appreciate someone who's worked out the parts, installation and tuning. I second the nomination of @DannyP for this role, should he need a distraction in retirement!

@*LongFella posted:

I put about 4900 miles in 3 years on the Speedster. So I am hardly driving it and I am far from heavy footed pushing the engine. At the rate above, it would take me... ~24 years to get to 40,000 miles in the Coupe (it is early so my math could be wrong)... LOL!

Greg does have a 2276cc(?) option. I am dropping the Speedster off there this morning. The new buyer is going to have him add a few things. Gives me a chance to catch up with Greg - it has been a few months...

@*LongFella as you mentioned minimal driving is not good for carbs. The jets gets gummed up and initial start is sometimes a challenge after a long break. Not good when you want to just get up and go “ enjoy the drive for that day”. Just a thought.

@calmotion posted:

@*LongFella as you mentioned minimal driving is not good for carbs. The jets gets gummed up and initial start is sometimes a challenge after a long break. Not good when you want to just get up and go “ enjoy the drive for that day”. Just a thought.

Agree 100% and that is way (if I am not able to drive it), I pull her out of garage and start her up. I'll let her run, get up to temp, and put her back to rest

So at a minimum, I am letting the engine run once a month

I was doing the same for our daily cars this past year too...

@*LongFella posted:

Agree 100% and that is way (if I am not able to drive it), I pull her out of garage and start her up. I'll let her run, get up to temp, and put her back to rest

So at a minimum, I am letting the engine run once a month

I was doing the same for our daily cars this past year too...

Don't do that. Only start it if you can actually drive it and warm it up. Idling in the driveway isn't getting it warm enough.

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