Me either. Bruce, you have nothing to worry about. My cable shifter is very precise in both my Spyder and my Cayman. It is not a "hokey" method in any sense.
My first cable shift car was my 1990 Corrado. I did break one cable end, but was able to weld it back together. It stayed together for 8 years and 98,000 miles, and still shifted like new.
Lane...It's the photo I think. It just doesn't show it well. It's the flat plate on the right side/end of the case. This is the place where the shifter plate will attach. That angular shaft is the shift rod. (similar to the VW hockey stick).......Bruce
Danny, that's reassuring. It's pretty amazing what can be done these days. Especially in the after-market auto parts industry
Lane....I couldn't find another photo of that clear plastic plate in my file....Sorry
Bruce
I'm a big fan of cable shifters, generally, but not of the Subaru ones so we make our own rod shifter utilizing the stock Subaru shifter base form the donor car. Works VERY well. The throw could be a little shorter, but it is very positive and has minimal slop...
No plexi on Lanes transaxle either, not sure what you're seeing...
Oh, I thought it was a cable shifter. How do you get the rods around the engine to the back of the transaxle?
pretty much the same as an old rod shift spyder or a 914, it just kicks around the oil pan/sump/bottom of motor. It's not a bad path to make.
He just drills a couple big holes in the engine, and runs it right through. No big deal.
LOL!
Is that what was in your Coupe that I drove last year? It was crisp enough, and shortening the shifter a couple of inches would have shortened the throws. I kinda felt like it was one of those Rat Fink shifters that stick up through the roof. 
The plastic plate was just to cover that area until the real shifter mechanism is installed. Temporary dust cover ?? Anyway, I just thought it should be covered better than seranwrap which is how it came from Rancho.
Carey....Are you saying that your own shifter for your mid engine model uses rods and not cables ?? I would be interested in hearing more about that. A few photos would be nice too. By the way, a few years ago, you sent me a bunch of very useful info on all the various Subaru engines available. I still refer to it on occasion................Bruce
A couple more pictures from Messrs Hines and Fincher.
The window frame in place. I think Carey's comment was along the lines of "Gee whiz this is hard!" Sort of. There may have been an 'f' involved.
The engine being assembled by Mike. You can see the first bit of Oslo blue on it.
That's a lotta blue on that engine.
You sure you can stand that much color?
It'll be tough, but I think I can. Seriously, there will be a bit more blue as well as some contrasting gray.
@Lane Anderson you will love the pop of color on the engine. Mine has held up very well over the last 4 years. 
Lucky for you, Lane, the official Subaru oil filter from the dealer's parts dept, is the same color Blue as your car.
I know that you planned it that way, just for those people peeking underneath.
When I am feeling blue, all I have to do, is take a COVID, spin, in Lane's blue, and then watch Bear in a big blue house. Then as Julie Andrews said: " And then I don't feel so bad" 
What color is you intake valve covers and alternator stand going to be? I started out thinking I wanted silver and had Carey do them over in red which I think works for my car. The engine bits are an important color choice.
Honestly I’m not sure but I think the valve covers will be blue. I worked out the colors with Mike Fincher and told him just to make it look good. I trust his creativity.
Some more blue for @Gordon Nichols. Mike expects to have the engine finished today or tomorrow.
All powder coated great stuff Lane.
So, the car will be done sometime between Labor Day and Columbus Day, then?
Not a bad guess, I'd say.
And DONE - well, except for the plastic camshaft belt cover that Mike left at the shop.
What about the oil cap and the dipstick
I have the same problem mine are yellow.
Looks great, Lane.
They don’t have to be yellow, mine are red and still look good.
plastidip?
Kinda busy-looking when it's all together, isn't it?
An amazingly compact power plant.
Single cam. Good choice. That engine is gorgeous and it puts mine to shame.
Who cares what the engine looks like? It will be hidden 99.9% of the time. Are the boys in Indiana going to make you a door/cover for oil fill/dipstick access? That would make sense.
P.S.: If Carey doesn't hate me yet, he will now with this last suggestion. I've given Lane a few suggestions and gotten a couple nasty-gram texts from Carey!
Hah!!! 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
It needs to be under a clear plastic engine cover to show it off -
Fitting you picked blue for a Subaru car. Blue and gold cars have a long history with Subaru rally racing. It’s the reason so many WRXs and STIs are blue with gold rims:
Great looking engine Lane! I love the Subaru power plant in my Speedster. I have recently taken a trip back to the Vw Type 1 world with the purchase of the 77 Puma GTE and had a nice 2276 built with all the best parts by a craftsman and in comparison the Type 1 still engine feels like Chitty chitty bang bang Vs's a formula 1 engine. It is convincing me more and more to have the Puma converted to Subaru this winter.
You will love your car Lane. Be ready for the post build blues (pun intended). You will have a period of adjustment once you have your car and all the excitement of the build and anticipation to have it finished is over. Enjoy this time because it is a big part of the fun even though you may not realize it now.
Any blues will be short-lived, @Jimmy V.. After waiting for several years I just want to drive it.
@Gordon Nichols posted:Kinda busy-looking when it's all together, isn't it?
An amazingly compact power plant.
Agreed. Packaging is (one of) the miracles of modern manufacturing. That's a lot of engine occupying a very small amount of space.
@WOLFGANG posted:It needs to be under a clear plastic engine cover to show it off -
Umm, no. People do this to their Caymans. It's not a Ferrari people.
And please, for the love of God, no neon lighting in the engine bay.
The word I'm looking for is......tacky.
Lane has class. Lane is not tacky. Lane will not do this.
P.S.: I like how the AN fittings are installed in both the upper coolant manifold and lower hose/thermostat housing. Very clean.
"Lane has class. Lane is not tacky. Lane will not do this."
Sniff! That's the nicest thing you've ever said about me, Danny.
@Gordon Nichols posted:Lucky for you, Lane, the official Subaru oil filter from the dealer's parts dept, is the same color Blue as your car.
I know that you planned it that way, just for those people peeking underneath.
I was getting ready to change the oil in the wife's subaru and decided to do some filter research. I found out that the filter shown, blue one, is made in the USA, but isn't of the highest quality. If one were to be concerned with quality, then the black one made by Tokyo Roki #15208AA160, made in Japan, should be used. Of course, you can't get them from you local Subaru dealer anymore. You'll have to source them elsewhere.
This guy in this video cuts them apart to show you.
Just for your information.
Also, for all you DIY Subaru owners, after your done filling the oil, you should floor your gas pedal then turn you motor over until the oil light goes out to fill the filter with oil. The engine will not start when the pedal is floored. I don't know if this trick works with all models though. We have a Crosstrek. It probably won't work with our plastic car conversions though.
I love little tidbits of info like this. It shows that someone was thinking. I also found a way to disable the "put your damn seat belt on" warning signal that's oh so annoying if your just moving the car around.
i have a newer honda, try to not use honda filters, marginal quality...tend towards the German guys, Mann and Mahle
Neet but I would like to see a bunch of filters like the k&n Cut as well just to see if the k&n
is as good
We use a Car Quest Premium oil filter, which is better made than the stock US Subaru filter and rated at 10k miles. It is on par with the Japan filter, if not better.
@DannyP yes we are making a Boxster-esque bowl and access plate to check and fill oil.
I forgot who asked, but Joe's red oil cap and dipstick are simply a plastic primer paint and the body shop used a plastic adhesion promoter also. Seems to have held up better than i expected...
I’m pretty simple and don’t want to have to run around to different stores for different filters for the Subaru, Nissan and Speedster, so I just go to the NAPA store and get NAPA Gold (made by Wix) filters for everything and drive home.
If it’s not the best available on Planet Earth, I’m OK with that.
Neither are the cars.
My Nissan won’t start with the gas pedal floored, either, nor can you accelerate with one foot on the brake (as in trying to bed brake pads). Nope...... Can’t do that!
I’m gratified that I am so well protected From myself in our modern cars. 
Do any of yours have the forward collision protection stuff? Pam's Outback has caught me by surprise a couple of times when it slammed on the brake because the guy in front was slooooowly turning into a drive. Luckily the folks behind me were paying attention. Seemed a bit premature to me.
No, ours are pre-Big Brother-Driver so none of the lane changing or watch out up ahead warnings for us (yet). I’m sure the next car will have them and that’s the first thing I’ll be asking how to turn off.
I’m very happy with a backup camera or rear proximity sensors for parking, and maybe a blind spot warning, but that’s about it.
We bought the Crosstrek because it was the only one available with a MANUAL transmission. It doesn't have any of that fancy crap on it.
It does have "hill assist" which is pretty convenient for around here.
One thing annoying about modern manual trannyed cars is the "rev hang" when changing gears. When you push in the clutch, the revs hang where you were at for a second or two. They're trying to make it easier for morons to drive manuals. This feature also makes using the engine to slow down less effective. They're always trying to fix sheat that ain't broke.
The guy in the video mentioned above by @Carlos G is a factory-trained Subaru tech with a YouTube channel dedicated to Subaru maintenance. Some good stuff there.
I drove a 2019 911T (factory lightweight, more street version of the GT3) a few weeks ago and it automatically rev matches when you down shift. I eventually was able to let go and let the computer do it for me (which was weird) but I'm a "heel/toe" guy and my instinct has my foot rocking whether it did something or not...
@chines1 posted:I drove a 2019 911T (factory lightweight, more street version of the GT3) a few weeks ago and it automatically rev matches when you down shift.
I can't tell you how badly I would hate that. All the magazines gush about this driver's aid/ "launch control" garbage, then campaign to "save the manuals". If the "manual" car is taking control of throttle/gear-change functions, then no wonder people just buy the paddle-shifted car.
It's a sportscar for crying out loud-- let me do something.
I can kinda' understand the push towards autonomous pods (I guess), in that so very many people live in people-piles, whereby "driving" means "sitting in stop-and-go traffic". What I'll never understand is sportscars taking driver involvement and numbing it or dumbing it to the point where the car says, "hands off, you moron-- I've got this".
I have no desire to drive HAL2000 for pleasure, no matter how much better HAL is than me. As I've said before, George Clooney would probably make a better dinner date for my wife than an orangutan in a polo shirt, but I'm not likely to hire him to take her out for me.
Does anyone else keep an imaginary scoresheet in your head as you motor down that favorite twisty bit of road?
How many times did you get the revs wrong by just a little?
How many times did you nail it?
Are you working the corners smooth enough that your wife isn't reaching for the grab handle?
Or picking the shift points so the engine never sounds like it's working too hard?
Nah, it must be just me.
@Stan Galat posted:I can't tell you how badly I would hate that. All the magazines gush about this driver's aid/ "launch control" garbage, then campaign to "save the manuals". If the "manual" car is taking control of throttle/gear-change functions, then no wonder people just buy the paddle-shifted car.
It's a sportscar for crying out loud-- let me do something.
What I'll never understand is sportscars taking driver involvement and numbing it or dumbing it to the point where the car says, "hands off, you moron-- I've got this".
I have no desire to drive HAL2000 for pleasure, no matter how much better HAL is than me.
I never learned how to heel/toe or double clutch, but I do love driving a manual. Learning them would undoubtedly make things smoother and probably extend the life of the drive train. I'll work on that. I do love to blip the throttle in between gears though just for the sound. THE SOUND! Mechanical music it is.
Carlos, if you've never, the hardest thing today may be finding someone local to show you how.
On a recent test drive at a Honda dealer, the sales lady kept staring at my feet, wondering how I was doing that. A few years earlier, at a Mazda dealer, I told the sales dude the pedals (on a Miata) were set up just right for heel and toe. I might as well have been speaking Mandarin.
It is well worth the effort to learn. The first time you get it just right, you are hooked for life.
And your synchros will be forever grateful.
That’s a skill I hope to learn in the Coupe, especially since I want take it to the track at least once.
You will like the powertrain on that car Lane the ratios are pretty nice on Subie tranny.
I remember Jay Leno saying click click click and your doing 100mph, it just gets boring.
@Carlos G posted:I never learned how to heel/toe or double clutch, but I do love driving a manual. Learning them would undoubtedly make things smoother and probably extend the life of the drive train. I'll work on that. I do love to blip the throttle in between gears though just for the sound. THE SOUND! Mechanical music it is.
@Lane Anderson posted:That’s a skill I hope to learn in the Coupe, especially since I want take it to the track at least once.
It's not an ideal video, but it's 2 minutes long. If you are "blipping" the throttle on downshifts, you're 95% of the way there.
It presupposes in that video that you come to a corner and brake then slide your heel/foot on the throttle while you ate finishing with your toe on the brake and with the clutch in changed gears as let the clutch put... heel and toe
i wonder if @Marty Grzynkowicz’s shoes and gloves are needed
What is the benefit of that if you don’t actually double clutch?
@Lane Anderson posted:What is the benefit of that if you don’t actually double clutch?
The cigar goes to Mr. Anderson.
You DO get the engine spinning up where it needs to be for the downshift but methinks you're still doing a disservice to the synchros.
So, here's how I learned it in the middle of the last century:
When the clutch pedal is down (clutch released), the engine is not connected to the gearbox. You can rev the engine all you want then and nothing will spin up in the tranny.
The whole point of rev-matching is to get the next gear down spinning at the speed it will need to be at when you engage the gears.
So, clutch pedal down, shift to neutral, clutch pedal up, rev the engine (and the now-attached gearbox), quick-like-a-bunny depress clutch pedal a second time (thus double-clutching), and then shift down while the bits in the gearbox are still spinning at the speed they will need to be after the shift. Then, finally, clutch pedal up to engage gears.
Some of the comments in the video suggest modern gearboxes don't need to be down-shifted this way any more. True? Myth?
Have I mythed something?
In any case (see what I did there?), I suspect our VW gearboxes are old enough to need to be shifted the way I learned.
You do need a really good alignment of the stars sometimes get a quiet type I gearbox . Just saying
@Sacto Mitch posted:Have I mythed something?
Yes. Synchros and helical-cut gears. BMC had non-synchro, straight cut 1st gears that required double clutching 2-1 well into the 60's. Racing transmissions had straight cut gears requiring double clutching because straight cut gears transfer 5%-10% more power than helical cut gears do. (That's misleading. Straight cut gears LOSE LESS power in transmission than helical gears do)
As we discussed a few months ago wrt broken clutch cables, you don't really even need a clutch in a synchronized, helical cut gear transmission, except to get underway. Shift into neutral, match the rpm, and a gentle nudge in the shifter and the Synchros will do the rest.
@IaM-Ray posted:You do need a really good alignment of the stars sometimes get a quiet type I gearbox . Just saying
Motul Gearbox 300. Just saying.
@dlearl476 posted:...and the Synchros will do the rest...
So maybe synchros are just stronger than they used to be?
I think one of the arguments for double-clutching was to save the synchros, especially at higher rpms. And this was on road cars with full-synchro and all helical gears.
I do notice that downshifts and upshifts on my car almost require rev matching to go smoothly (upshifting, I pause in neutral a bit to let the revs drop). And I'm so used to double-clutching down that I never try rev matching any other way.
Old dog, new tricks.
@Sacto Mitch posted:
Some of the comments in the video suggest modern gearboxes don't need to be down-shifted this way any more. True? Myth?
Have I mythed something?
In any case (see what I did there?), I suspect our VW gearboxes are old enough to need to be shifted the way I learned.
Meh. Maybe a 901 or 915. The Porsche synchro design(brake-band style) cannot be rushed or pushed. There is always a pause to a well-shifted Porsche trans. In 1985, Porsche switched to the G50 which used the Borg-Warner style synchro, and is basically still in use today with lots of evolution.
However, 99% of us have a VW Beetle transmisiion. They used cone synchronizers and shift like butter if assembled with proper clearances. Up or down.
Damn.
So all along I've had a 901 and never knew.
So let's see if I get this right:
I'm only partially kidding here as these are questions I've wondered about for a while. If I take the car (or any manual car) to the track I need to master at least #1.
I have seen 6 toe feet & 6 fingered hands They have a little extra... all in gest of course.
BTW I had a type I tranny that was so slick and smooth and quiet that I know what DannyP means by well built.
The concern for the syncros is touching. SAVE THE SYNCROS!
They cost about $5 each, and will last for 10s of thousands of miles even abused-- if the transaxle was assembled with care.
So I think I'm comfortable mastering a basic heel-and-toe. 
Now back to my car. It's all about me, you know.
Whatever you choose to master, Lane, it's no 'superhuman' task. It can't be if I figured it out. Like riding a bike, once you get it, you get it and don't think about it much after that.
But, back to your car, the pedal setup and the brake feel will make all the difference in how easy it is to get. I didn't realize it at the time, but the first car I learned it on had pedals that were perfectly set up for it - a BMW 2002.
Besides the spacing between the brake and gas, another factor is how far down the brake pedal is before the brakes start to grab. If this leaves your heel about even with the gas at that point (with your toe on the brake), heel-and-toe is easy.
My MINI Cooper is a great driver's car, but the pedals are all wrong for heel and toe, so I don't even try in that car.
Also, brakes that are too touchy can screw things up. You want to maintain even pressure on the brakes while you're kicking the gas. Overly-sensitive brakes make that hard. Since most of our cars have unassisted brakes, that's usually not an issue.
You may want to touch base with Carey about this.
Mine has Wilwood pedals, I believe. Correct me if I'm wrong, @chines1, but I know it doesn't have the standard Beetle cluster, which would make heel-and-toeing almost impossible. See pic below when Carey installed the brake and clutch. Not sure how the accelerator will be mounted, but I'm sure Carey has my back.
@Lane Anderson posted:Mine has Wilwood pedals, I believe. Correct me if I'm wrong, @chines1, but I know it doesn't have the standard Beetle cluster, which would make heel-and-toeing almost impossible.
Well... not quite.
A VW pedal cluster can be massaged to be quite good as a heel/toe setup.
In our cars with tiny foot-boxes, most often it's big toe-little toe rather than heel-toe.
On most Spyders, the relation of the brake pedal when on the brakes to the throttle is exactly adjacent and maybe just behind the brake. It is such that you can keep even pressure or modulate the brake whilst rolling your ankle and blipping the throttle with your little toes. My Cayman works that way too.
I brake with about two-thirds of my foot letting my little toes hang near the gas. Don't wear big clod work boots when attempting this.
I guess it matters if you're a 9B or a 12EEE and whether you're in flip-flops or Dr. Martens. One of the reasons for driving shoes is that they're small to fit in a cramped pedal box, and soft-sided to help with fancy footwork.
For me, the stock VW pedal box is one of the best I've tried. Toe on the brake, heel on the gas.
Same with the old BMW.
With the (first gen) Miata, though, I had to learn to roll and use the side of my foot to hit the gas.
And like I said, the MINI's stock pedals don't work at all for me. Same for Hondas and Toyotas I've had.
If you're at all concerned about doing this, now is probably the time to let Carey know.
@DannyP posted:In our cars with tiny foot-boxes, most often it's big toe-little toe rather than heel-toe.
On most Spyders, the relation of the brake pedal when on the brakes to the throttle is exactly adjacent and maybe just behind the brake. It is such that you can keep even pressure or modulate the brake whilst rolling your ankle and blipping the throttle with your little toes. My Cayman works that way too.
I brake with about two-thirds of my foot letting my little toes hang near the gas. Don't wear big clod work boots when attempting this.
Since I replaced my VW cluster with CNC pedals, this is how it works for me. Just a roll of the ankle and I can blip the throttle with the outside of my foot. The bad news? I pretty much have to wear driving shoes in the Spyder now. And I have to be careful I get my foot square on the brake during panic stops, otherwise I'm pressing the gas, too.
I learned heel&toe on my first car, a crappy 69 beetle that had 4 different tires in two different sizes on it when purchased. You can imagine how well it was set up. Anyway, armed with a copy of an article by LJK Setright, and the conviction I had more in common with Jimmy Clark than the average bear, I managed to learn it. Once I mastered it on that pig pretty much everything else has been pretty easy. Later experience with a friend's 2002 was revelatory, damn. Then when I got into old British iron with their straight cut 1st gears I learned double clutching. At the moment my MINI has a really good set up for me with the exception of modern car rev hanging, but I've ranted about that before, so never mind about that. Can't wait for my coupe to get back to basics.
Lane, you are gonna have soooooo much fun!!!
@dlearl476 posted:Since I replaced my VW cluster with CNC pedals, this is how it works for me. Just a roll of the ankle and I can blip the throttle with the outside of my foot. The bad news? I pretty much have to wear driving shoes in the Spyder now. And I have to be careful I get my foot square on the brake during panic stops, otherwise I'm pressing the gas, too.
I have size 10.5 to 11 feet, not too wide. I prefer driving the Spyder barefoot if it's warm enough. If it's not, I'll wear some nice lightweight sneakers.
One time I was driving the Spyder home from work wearing my full-armor lineman Red Wings: steel toe and steel shank with those logger-looking lug soles. A traffic light was changing in a 55 mph zone. The person in front of me did just about a panic stop, so I had to as well. Those big soles got the brake pedal and the gas pedal too. A real pucker moment with the front brakes slowing me down as I was roasting the rear tires with the throttle! I got it slowed down enough to take my foot off and re-position fully on the brake and stop. NEVER AGAIN did I wear large shoes in the Spyder!
“If you're at all concerned about doing this, now is probably the time to let Carey know.“
Did that some time ago, so I’m covered.
And for someone who wants something other than Piloti. Marty highly recommends Snakes. they are much lighter weight for everyday use. The regular snake not the .2.
https://www.geox.com/en-US/sea...nakes&lang=en_US
Yes, wilwood brake/clutch pedals and a 911 throttle pedal. We haven't used VW pedals on anything in many years, quality just went to $h!t and I got tired of dealing with it. Pedal are all set for maximum spacing is a small pedal box and throttle is set nicely for "hell/toe" although Danny's description of a foot/ankle roll is certainly more accurate to my style as I find that much easier and more comfortable for me.
On driving shoes; several years ago Porsche Design partnered with Adidas on a series of driving shoes. I had the CF "original's" and the 917's. Both amazingly comfortable and skinny where it counts. Not sure if they still make them or not...
"hell/toe"
Sounds like you need to see a podiatrist.
As I said earlier:
"Now back to my car. It's all about me, you know. "
Here's a picture of the completed engine. Carey tells me the drive train will go in the car today, and the rear suspension will follow soon after.
gorgeous motor build
" Sure is perty " !
Pertyiest motor we'll never see......
Oh I’ll take the cover off for ya, Danny. 😬
Aaaaand it's in!
Rear suspension views. Kinda close to get a full perspective, but you can see the craftsmanship.
And some engine views.
Looking tasty!
If I get closer than about 4’, everything is a Blur. Maybe I should just stand back?
@chines1 posted:I drove a 2019 911T (factory lightweight, more street version of the GT3) a few weeks ago and it automatically rev matches when you down shift. I eventually was able to let go and let the computer do it for me (which was weird) but I'm a "heel/toe" guy and my instinct has my foot rocking whether it did something or not...
Old habits die hard. The first two or three times I drive the 968 each year, I find myself slapping the steering wheel for downshifts after driving my Smart all year.
Got it out yesterday and did ~150 miles of Canyon Therapy, then stopped for an ice cream. 
Ok, here's a question for y'all. Mike Lempert, who is making my custom steering wheel, has asked if I wanted the spokes engine turned or polished. My first thought was polished, but I do like the look of engine turning. Just for grins, let's have a poll. I'll post some comparative pics when I find them. In the meantime, here's the chosen design before we did some minor editing.
I like the shape you have chosen, Lane!
For my vote, I go with engine turning. Polished spokes get scratched, etc. over time. I know. Add some holes to keep ALB happy. :-) Any rivets for that vintage look? What type of wood have you chosen?
Ok, here are pictures of my Speedster wheel in the original polished form and the engined-turned form.
Plusses and minuses
The wood is probably going to be teak, but that's still being decided. Mike will do the wood in the style of the 356 Carrera wheel with ebony inlays. No rivets.
...Unless I change my mind before he does it, of course. The car will originally be delivered with the standard Coupe wheel, which is a Nardi, I believe. It will be for sale when Mike finishes my custom wheel.
Can you show a front view of that wheel Lane.
Beautiful!
Without a doubt engine-turned!
I like the polished aluminum but you are right when you say the polished wheel scratches easy. I bought a new wheel and Porsche crest horn button and in short order the polished aluminum parts of the wheel have gotten scratched up. The aluminum parts of my wheel aren't hardened or protected with any coating and it scratches almost just by looking at it. I love my wheel but am not happy with how fragile the finish is, however I do not like the engine turned finish at all. The first pic is the wheel the day I installed it a couple months ago, the next pics are showing the deep scratches that appeared in the first week of use. My aftermarket Polished spoke Fuchs wheels seem about as soft and scratch super easy also.
Yes, if you have dry skin and run a finger lightly across it there will be a scratch. It's amazing how soft aluminum is.
Here's a full frontal (and full rear) on the Carrera wheel. Mike's are indistinguishable from the originals and he can convert a plastic-rimmed wheel to teak. The spokes are somewhat hard to come by and expensive, but they can be refinished as well. He had one plated with nickel that was jaw dropping.
These are really large wheels (15 1/2" or 16", I think) when made to original specs, and most of us want smaller wheels. My wheel will be smaller - 14 1/2" or 15", I forget which.
Jimmy use it then send it some year for polishing in the off season I mean you can bring it back to it's glory anytime by jeweller rouge and a buffing wheel in the right hands.
