Light Brightness

Marshall,  it happens that I just replaced my tail lights last week.  Look at the numbers on the bulbs and order the led bulbs by color and numbers. Red bulbs for brakes, etc. I think I just googled led for cars 12v.  Mine just plugged in and worked great.

Did you see this link?

Brighter tail lights revisited | SpeedsterOwners.com - 356 Speedsters, 550 Spyders, Replicas and more

Al,

I just followed your suggestion and got a dizzingly array of options.  Do you happen to remember the company that you finally dealt with?

Thanks,

Marshall

@Marshall  Don't overthink this.  Pull your bulbs that you want to replace and go to your local Autozone/Advance/O'Reilly's/NAPA autoparts and get their equivalent LED to that bulb number (they all have them).  Don't forget to get the same LED color as the lens - Red for red, amber for amber, clear for clear.

They will definitely be brighter than the incandescents you started with.

Marshall, the box says "AntLine" for the bulbs.  Got them on line to save a 30 mile trip, but like Gordo says, Auto Zone would have 'em.

Al and Gordon,

Excellent. As soon as I get the car back from the shop, I’ll pull those bulbs and get LED replacements. Will my brake sensor need replacing due to lower current?
Marshall

The brake sensor, if it is a regular VW-style attached to the master cylinder, should be fine.

Since LED bulbs draw far less current, you might need either a different directional flasher OR a pair of ballast resistors, usually available where the led bulbs are sold.  The resistors go in-line to each side’s directional wires.  

I went the ballast resistor route because I’m an ex-computer nerd (and I use a non-standard flasher ).  Others on here may have gone the different flasher route and might recommend what they used.

There are LED flasher units available, but it really depends on what flasher unit your car has. If it's the VW unit with the hazard flasher built-in, just go with Gordon's resistor method.

If it's a 2 or 3 prong conventional "American" flasher, there are many available for LED bulbs.

Old "American" style flashers operated on current load, the newer LED type don't care what current load the bulbs have. That explains how come flash rates would speed up or slow down when a trailer's lights were added to the tow vehicles in past times.

OK.  I think I've got this.  I'm going to my local Autozone and getting red 1157 dual and 1156 single contact replacement LED bulbs.  Looking for a tower, 360 degree configuration.  That should take care of my rear brakes and their turn signals and my front turn signals.  Potential Problem.  May have an issue with my brake sensor.  I won't know whether I have a problem until I install the new bulbs.  I will provide parts numbers off my existing sensor (I think its installed on top of my master brake cylinder???) for advice and what to replace with.... to make the new LEDs work.

Third Brake Light.  Thanks to all who provided links to the strip lighting and info on how to mount.  Think I have everything I need.  Question.  When running wiring, how do you neatly mount the wires.  I saw someone referenced using coax cable mounting brackets but the photo showed that they were screwed into the body.  Should these be epoxied in place?

Thanks,

Marshall

Marshall, it's really not a "brake sensor". It's simply a pressure-activated electrical switch. It doesn't care how much current or voltage passes through it, i.e.: it simply doesn't matter which bulbs are connected to the circuit. A switch is a switch, either it works or it doesn't. If it works now, it will continue to work if you change bulbs.

The thing that CAN be a problem is the flasher relay/rate of flash of the bulbs.

"I saw someone referenced using coax cable mounting brackets but the photo showed that they were screwed into the body.  Should these be epoxied in place?"

I'm assuming this s for the third brake light in the engine grill or something, so there is a version of coax cable brackets that have an adhesive pad on the back that one would typically stick it to the side of a desk or something.  That would also work on our cars, but the adhesive might not be adequate (the underside of the body is too rough) so you would probably have to remove the double-sided sticky pad and glue the bracket to the body with some epoxy or something.  Beyond that, I would have to see what'cha doing to comment further.

Marshall, I built my third brake light into the license plate bracket above the plate.  I had it in the grill but didn't like the wires going into the deck lid and wasn't happy with the brightness.  Not period correct but when you hit the brakes you can't miss it , which I believe is the point.

Have fun nurturing your madness. If you need help spending money, just stick your hand in the air.  We're always willing to help.

I think there are license plate frames that incorporate 3rd brake lights.

@Marshall

Marshall, I have a license frame with a built-in brake-light as well as led light to properly illuminate the license plate. The brake-lite is pretty bright for a small lense. Frame can be mounted with lite-brake/plate-light on top or bottom.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/upd-50148

Another option might be to convert the backup light to a 3rd brake light.

Update,

My turn signals quick flash after I installed my new LED bulbs.  Is this the resistor I need?

1156 1157 3156 3157 7440 LED Bulbs 50W 6-Ohm Load Resistors — iJDMTOY.com

Marshall

You could use those but be warned that get very hot..me I would use a 2 or 3 prong  electronic flasher depending which is already in the car.

2-Prong Electronic LED Turn Signal Flasher Relay EF32RLNP BIPOLAR !!! | eBay

3-Prong Electronic LED-Compatible Turn Signal Flasher Relay EF33RL Round 25 Amp | eBay

Hi Alan,

Thanks for the reply.  Where would I find my existing electronic flasher in my car?  Also, do this not get hot like what I'd proposed.  I see no way to mount them.

Thanks,

Marshall

Turn signal flasher is usually zip tied to the top of the steering column just behind the dash. IIRC