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Hi guys. I am new here and in the market for a new speedster replica. I have already perused this site and there are lots of great experts and posts, but I thought I’d just ask straight away.

I live in North San Diego, about 5 miles from JPS and 90 miles from Vintage. I am not all that concerned about performance but want comfortable freeway driving. 110 minimum HP but I could be talked into more 😆. I’m looking for reliability, looks and quality. willing to spend in the $40.000’s. I am also willing to wait...

Also, has anyone heard of Beverly Hills Motor Car in Oceanside, CA? They had a classic car showroom in downtown San Diego but are now making replicas exclusively.  Anyone know anything about them?

Thanks to Roy at Cloud9 for your valuable time in answering my questions  if you had a car today I may have bought it!

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Last edited by MikeM
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Mike, it was a pleasure speaking to you today. Here his my advice, Run, don't walk to Greg's facility at Vintage Motorcars of CA and get your order in!!!!  While your dream car is being built if you happen to find a used one that you think you would enjoy, buy that one too!!! When your brand new one is finished you can always sell the used one for as much or possibly more then what you paid for it.

I am sure members here will be happy to share their opinions on the other builders/dealers you mentioned.

Regardless of which way you go, I hope you have a great experience and join the Speedster Madness!!!


A good read-

https://www.speedsterowners.co...8#668422029750903678

If you need to read more use the search- there's been a lot more written here the last few years, but the above says it all.

Beverly Hills Motor Car has never 'built' cars- they seem to have an extensive inventory, as shown by their website, but further investigation will show that most (if not all) of those Speedsters don't exist on their showroom floor.  What they will do (I think) is have one built to your liking, with the appropriate mark up.  Now the issue is where will they have it built?  Better to go to the source and have it done yourself without the middle man.

You were asking about the different builders- here's my take-                                            While Vintage Speedsters in Arizona claims to have built the most Speedsters, most of those were built by the company when it was in CA and owned by Kirk and Mary.  The present owner took over when Kirk retired (3? 4? years ago), moved the operation to Scottsdale, hired all new staff and from what we've seen here has had some 'growing pains'.  Some of the cars we've heard about are not quite finished when delivered and needed some 'tweaking'.

Vintage Motor Cars (Hawaiian Gardens, CA) is in Vintage Speedster's location before the sale/move and features most of the old staff.  All reports give Greg (the new owner) 2 thumbs up- he's easy to deal with and his cars are given a good shake down before they leave.

Intermeccanica (up here in Vancouver, British Columbia) builds an amazing car as well.

@MikeM

Hi Mike.  Keep an eye on my website, I buy and restore replica Speedsters and make them nicer than when they were originally built.  Replica Speedsters are the only cars I do. I've been doing it for over 10 years and had over 80 of them.  All of them were factory built by either Vintage Speedsters, Vintage Motorcars of California, JPS or Beck.

I currently have a very nice, like new one with less than 1,000 miles on it and you never know what might also pop-up on my website from day to day.

Here's the link to my website and you can give me a call anytime.  www.replicaspeedsters.com

@MikeM posted:

Thanks guys. I appreciate the info.

@ALB Beverly Hills leaves the website up to attract callers. No cars. I believe they started assembling cars because they told me that’s all they do now and invited me to their factory to review their build process. Something strange about the whole thing though.

Do you know who they're buying the shells from?

No. I do not know much except they seem to truly be building. They have photos of their factory in Oceanside and invited me to see their production facilities.

but the real question, not withstanding a checkered reputation, is why would you buy a basically non branded replica. Resale value wouldn’t be there. Probably quality would be iffy given they are new to this. And the price was similar to Vintage and JPS. They quoted me $38k plus for a base model.

There are two factors that should be considered.  The time to get your car and your distance from the builder.  I got my car from Greg at Vintage Motorcars in 4 months and for various reasons been back 4 times. JPS quoted me 18 months he is  over 100 miles away. I couldn't be happier with my car from Greg and there are stories about John at JPS. Greg makes a great car and will do anything you want to make it yours, he is 30 miles from me and that is far enough. Good luck, do your homework, there are many options. Cheers.



Richard

@MikeM posted:



..but the real question, not withstanding a checkered reputation, is why would you buy a basically non branded replica. Resale value wouldn’t be there. Probably quality would be iffy given they are new to this. And the price was similar to Vintage and JPS. They quoted me $38k plus for a base model.

This hobby/industry is small enough that I'm pretty sure if their finished product is as nice as what Greg, Carey and Henry put out, word would get around pretty quickly and resale value would be there.  With their rep what it is, somehow I don't think that will be the case, though.  They obviously think that this is a market where there's good money to be made and I'm guessing that (again, given their reputation) they're in for a bit of a surprise.  Others will attest that building specialty cars for resale has a bit of a learning curve...

My experience with this hobby and knowing many people in the hobby is regardless of which manufacture you go with the car will require some degree of sorting. Also unless you lay out very large $ (more than 40k) you will get a pretty basic car. If that is what you want that is great. Like any hobby if you get hooked you will want more HP, more this and that. I would seriously consider working with Troy. He typically gets cars with low mileage from folks that did not get the madness and need to sell. He sorts the problems and will deliver a trouble free car. Plus depending on what the market is doing little or no waiting. The other option is to find one privately and find someone competent to sort it out. Welcome to the madness.

Mike, check this thread. There are a few pics of my Speedster. I was running the Fuch Deep 6 wheels off my 1969 912 on the Speedster, but then decided to put on a set of steel Porsche OEM Lemmerz I had laying around. I prefer the weathered driver look. I had a Jet Black 040 911 for years and hated seeing it get dirty (from the pollen and dust) just hours after a wash. I gave up cleaning my cars. It's my OCD - and that's how I keep my OCD at bay.

https://www.speedsterowners.co...wtb-jps-cms-beck-etc

Had a great time visiting with John at JPS this morning. He truly has a passion. He gave me 1-1/2 hours of his time and experience. Some photos attached. I’m visiting Vintage Motorcars next week.

Thanks to everyone on this forum who reached out to me with to offer their brilliant advice. Met several very nice guys, some who offered me a test drive in their car. It’s great to be a perspective owner in such a great community.

Mike

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@MikeM posted:

Had a great time visiting with John at JPS this morning. He truly has a passion. He gave me 1-1/2 hours of his time and experience. Some photos attached. I’m visiting Vintage Motorcars next week.

As Troy notes, get several opinions on how the vendor has treated customers in the past. The folks on this board know the players well. Thanks for the pictures from JPS. I'd been curious.

Mike

Thanks Richard.

wait time is an issue for me  I mean, I’m no spring chicken lol  

I’m 6’2+ and I must say that getting in was a bit embarrassing. Nothing like seeing an old guy getting into a cool car  I think with practice and technique I may get past the laughingstock stage  

BTW I was surprised the water cooled option was only $4k more. 2.5 Subura with upgraded tranny, iRS, and AC.

@MikeM I'm afraid to jinx it - earlier in the year Greg suggested he might start getting out from under his backlog sometime in May;  I hope it will be a Christmas present as there are many folks in front of me in line.   Being in Ca getting a car already here or to-be-registered here solves a lot of challenges else Cloud 9 sure seems to have some nice ones.

It took me longer than it should have to pull the trigger, lurking on this site for over a year watching and reading up on the options.  Biggest delay for me is I'm going with the subie engine which is a bunch more work but for what I'm looking for should be just the ticket.

One nice thing about going to the shop in person was being able to get a whole bunch of color samples for body, interior, carpet to take home. That selection process was agonizing fun but expect to be really happy with the end result . Pics when I got the car of course.

Last edited by msjulie
@MikeM posted:

Yes I do have good intentions. Just reporting my visit. I’ve read the posts regarding vendors and take them seriously, and I am not endorsing anyone. I expected some input like this based on what I’ve read here. Again, I just stated what I saw, and it was simply a visit. Not an experience of buying or owning, which is different.

My concern was that another newbie might happen to read your glowing post and be influenced by it without knowing there has been a lot of VERY negative experiences discussed on the SOC.

I don't really understand why anyone would visit a builder with so much bad press, unless they just didn't believe it or were unaware of it.

@R Thorpe posted:

Mike,

Your doing fine, John at JPS is not well considered here, but simplify your choice. I visited JPS and Vintage. It came down to this JPS wanted 18 months, Vintage wanted 4, easy choice. This was last June and Greg delivered to me almost on time and I’m very pleased with the outcome. Good luck.



Richard

@MikeM- If you're still undecided- read the above again (and again and again if you have to)

@Troy Sloan posted:

*CAUTION* The experience described in the message above this one is exactly what many others have reported PRIOR to putting down a deposit.  Do your due diligence and search the SOC before you make a decision to purchase a new Speedster.

To anyone- Yes, John at JPS is enthusiastic and passionate when talking about a new build, but he is also known for being very hard to deal with once he has your money. @DannyP's comment (in another recent thread) of not knowing who you're getting- Dr. Jeckyl or Mr. Hyde- on any particular day is (from reports of more than a few dissatisfied customers here) seems pretty accurate.  As well, people have complained about the man doing things the way he thinks they should be instead of what the customer wants.

I'm the first to admit that I've never even met the man and am only reporting what I've read here, but a couple of experiences are from people I've met (and I trust their word and judgement) so please keep that in mind.  Al

Last edited by ALB

@ALB @Troy Sloan i believe my opinion on this issue has been documented a time or two....i was just sitting back to observe the latest reviews....i, for one do not play the FACEBOOK game...but someone with the know-how should forward these threads to good'ole john-boy.....just for kicks...but alas, as we that know also know...he DOES NOT CARE...with his semi long history, he has just become NUMB to our reviews of his....how does one say?.... "questionable" business practices & personality disorders?....troy seems to 2nd my opinion.....let the buyer beware

@R Thorpe posted:

Mike,

Your doing fine, John at JPS is not well considered here, but simplify your choice. I visited JPS and Vintage. It came down to this JPS wanted 18 months, Vintage wanted 4, easy choice. This was last June and Greg delivered to me almost on time and I’m very pleased with the outcome. Good luck.



Richard

I think John thinks of it as a loan to keep his cash flow going,sort of like SAS

@barncobob  i believe his business model is 'robbing peter to pay paul".....not what i'd call a sturdy foundation.....but it seems to work for him...... i believe these kinds of businesses all  do this to some extent...it's the "Dr. Jekyll / Mr. Hyde" personality disorder toward.....for the most part patiently waiting PAYING CUSTOMERS asking for reasonable progress updates   (ie: ME).... that left the foul taste in my mouth...that along with his distant relation with the truth was at times very disconcerting

I visited Vintage Motorcars today. Photos attached.

So I pulled the plug and ordered a new speedster from VM. Pretty loaded with 2332, 3:88, IRS and a bunch of goodies. Came just shy of $51k.

Thanks to everyone who helped in my initial search, Troy, Roy, Robert and Ernie among others. While the JPS subie was very attractive given it had AC and all the stuff I upgraded my VM to, all at $46k, it was pretty clear I’d sleep much better for the next year ordering from VM, be happier with the result, and it was pretty clear it would take two years through JPS and VM says they are working on getting down to 10 months delivery, so I’m confident I’ll get it with 12 months.

Heads up. There was a new speedster on the lot that a guy bought and is putting it up on BaT and they are thinking it could go pretty high and turn a nice profit. It’s the dark gray in the first picture next to the silver. Should be up within a week.

Looking forward to joining the club!

MikeM

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@MikeM wise choice.....just curious to if you have any "air cooled' experience?....if not, i suggest you learn.....last thing i want to do is "DIS" the purists....in my youth i owned VW's...and became a "semi expert" on them...and not by choice...which is why i went LIQUID COOLED and also got a coupe (year round driving & heat & A/C etc & zero tinkering)... and i'll leave it there.....the bigger you go ie :2332cc...especially with the A/C compressor....the more attention is needed to avoid certain shall i say "issues"....listen to the boys here..they know AIRCOOLED...ie: carbs, ignition valve adjustment etc etc.....either that or find a trustworthy AIRCOOLED mechanic to keep it just so....just a word from the wise and those that have been there & done that...save your dough & hire a pro...happy motoring and welcome to the madness!

Way to go Mike! Fun cars to tour in. You know my opinion. I got lucky. ...It shouldn't be luck on a purchase. Remember, a big bore, dual carb VW motor is a high performance motor. Keep it out of stop & go traffic. A Subaru motor can have almost double the HP, and more notably, good torque so short shifting is more doable. Add dependability. While my car is a JPS car, it rips. And I can thank John for putting together an aggressive car with looks to match. jnc's car is very aggressive also, although his car had more headaches than mine. Who you went with is a good choice.

I got lucky and got a good car (to this point).

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@MikeM by aircooled  "experience" do you mean wrenching on that flat six in that 911?....or service at the PORSCHE dealer?...they are in theory similar....except in $$$....but the PORSCHE fuel injected  flat six in that 911 is apples & oranges compared to the 2332 dual carb engine you are getting....just sayin'....still nothing that can not be learned...the basic maintenance is relatively simple.....troubleshooting & repair?...that's an  entirely different OPRAH

Work with Greg on any extras you find. I have a Wolo Bad Boy horn, 3rd brake light, push button starter, oil pressure gauge, battery disconnect, fuel pump cut off, Blazecut fire suppression system, Durant mirrors, and a CB filter kit for the CB thin line sump on the 2332  engine. The Big Boy clutch pedal extender was considered, but not used. A left foot rest was installed, but later removed. Mine was delivered in November, 2019 after a 3 month build. Does the $50K include taxes??

@MikeM posted:

Thanks Stan.

@jprpdryour talking over my head at this point lol.

my cost was almost 51 pre tax but I got a good list of options  you can build any car on the website and get the price  

How aggressive is the 2332 with 3:88 and sidewinder single? I don’t need a rocket ship but want some zip. I don’t want to tinker with it all the time. What setup would you guys recommend?

TIA

What do you mean by this? Do you mean dual single-throat carbs? Do you mean a single side-draft(which doesn't exist except on a turbo application)?

Mike, most any dual carb VW motor will require the same maintenance. Mostly balancing of carbs. ...Adjusting valve lash. With good ignition and then with a proper wiring of the car, it shouldn't be any different than any other 'breathed on' engine. The VW engine has been built in high performance fashion forever. Of course , there is the 'quality of build'...

Heat is your enemy, especially with a performance air cooled motor. Stop & go traffic, endless freeway backup, 90-100 degree plus days make for a hot engine. Mountain passes too. Some hi-po VW motors are more 'cammy' than others, requiring revving through each gear to keep 'em happy. I would look at torquey cams vs the high strung cams. I would guess your builder will be in tune to your needs.

With my Karmann Ghia I had, I had an externally routed oil cooler, adding cooling and oil capacity. I wouldn't short change yourself on your built up motor.

Other than that, drive the heck out of it, and tour!! I broke mine in in San Diego and surrounding areas... A wonderful place for a replica. Plenty of back roads for a touring/racer wannabe. :-)

Weber carbs are not listed as an option on the VMC website. My 2332 engine has dual Solex/Kadron carbs. I have the 3.88/.89 transmission combo. I stayed with the stock exhaust. Even if the Sidewinder exhaust increases HP a little, I do not need it. It may sound better, but is expensive just for that feature. Not sure about decreased ground clearance or more difficult access to passenger side valve cover. The 145HP engine is plenty for my non-racing/non-competition needs.

@MikeM If you sat down with Greg and went over the specifics of what you were hoping to achieve and your driving style I'm certain Greg has pointed you in the right direction. San Diego is an incredible place to live and drive. You'll not want for much better scenery and the roads you have available will provide you with a lot of good driving. The canyons there are plentiful and the roads going through them long. The 2332 is a great engine with plenty of hp and performance capabilities and it isn't too finicky. The Sidewinder single port exhaust will complement the motor and will sound nice as well. IRS is something I'm not familiar with but those on here who have it say it's worlds better than a swing axle. A swing axle is all I know and I can run mine through the canyons with no issues. Your choices for air-cooled mechanics in SoCal are plentiful and I'm sure Greg could help you out with finding a good one. The Samba is also a good resource for finding a good air-cooled mechanic if Greg's list is too short. Here's a mobile air-cooled guy in San Diego https://www.mobileaircooled.com but that's just from the internet. I don't know him or know his work. You could also check with one of the VW clubs near you.

For the uninitiated here is the average temperatures for San Diego, CA:

High/Low - January 67/51, February - 67/52, March - 68/55, April - 70/58, May - 69/60, June - 71/63, July - 75/66, August - 77/68, September - 78/67, October - 76/63, November - 72/56, December - 67/51. San Diego has on average 146 sunny days and 117 partly cloudy days a year. The average annual precipitation is less than 12 inches (30 cm), resulting in a borderline arid climate. For these reasons San Diego is one of the nicest cities I've visited in SoCal and one of the most expensive.

Congratulations on the purchase and as we like to say "Welcome to the Madness"

Mike, 140-150 hp in these cars is the said by many to be the sweet spot. Tuned and maintained properly it should be very reliable and push you back in the seat. You should be getting 0-60 mph in under 6 seconds and your roll-on power in second and third gear will put a smile on your face.

Speedster replicas are (generally) not for drag racing new Corvettes and Challenger Demon Editions, so don't be tempted if some backwards-baseball-cap-wearing scion in an Audi A-10 revs in your face.

Now, if the other guy's got a mid-60s Porsche or a Morgan or a TR-6? Feel free...

@edsnova posted:

Ok just saying: to match the power-to-weight ratio of a new ZR-1 your 1850-lb Speedster would need 435 horsepower. Not saying it can’t happen; am saying if you make that your goal your fun/$ ratio will be negatively impacted. Very much so.

And this, in a nutshell, is why nobody in my neck of the woods understands these cars. They love them, until they figure out that most have about 130 hp, then... zzzzzzz.

I was one of 'em. It takes a while to understand them if you don't live near the Blue Ridge Parkway or Mulholland Drive.

I’ve owned MG’s up to a Shelby Cobra GT500. I can honestly say I enjoyed driving the MG’s more.

funny thing about the Ford. It has a 1000 watt stereo that takes up almost half the trunk space. Put any volume on the stereo whatsoever, and the mirrors vibrate so bad you can’t see out of them. The doors dented if you merely looked at them. But hey, the drivetrain was purely awesome.

I think many (and some here) miss the point of a classic car (even if it is a replica). Many old cars have classic lines. The 356 bathtub has better lines than most, timeless even. The rich guys think their 356 should be as fast and luxurious as the modern Porsche or Merc. Ya 0-60 in seconds flat. Hit 100 like nobodies business.

Fact is, most of these replica 356's are faster than the originals. And disposable enough to take more risk with them. V8 horsepower in a 356 body is unrealistic - sure a few have done it.

I laugh at the guys who can't handle that a 356 is slower than the modern Porsche - they don't get it. But I agree... a faster than original 356 is fun, and desirable. Within reason! Also remember there is very little in the way of safety built into these cars.

My Subaru powered coupe gets the extra power easily. No its not a rocketship, but it will keep my attention on the mountain curves and not bog or overheat on the grades. I can over drive the relatively skinny tires on it - they will howl. ...Two nice advantages to think of... A/C is not required on an open car. Skin cancer is avoided in a coupe! Lol An air cooled VW engine can have good power too, but they can be/are more finicky. ...Yet I drove my dual carbed Karmann Ghia without worry in Las Vegas Nv. It was a faster VW.

There are reasonable guys & eccentric guys... Takes all kinds. And its fun (and maybe expensive) to have that one off original replica. Build it your way!

Just to keep the HP reasonable for these vehicles in perspective:

The 901/911 began in 1965 with a 1991cc/130 HP engine.

The earlier 550 had a 1498cc/110 HP engine.

The highest HP for a 356 was 95. I have owned a 1965 356SC coupe for 47 years. It is quieter and smoother than my 2019 VMC 2332cc/145 HP Speedster, but the latter is quicker and has more torque. Both have plenty of HP for their design, and are always great fun to take out for their road exercise.

Choosing Greg's larger engine now is about the same as choosing a "Super" over a "Normal" back in the '50s.

Enjoy the build process, and plan a few visits to Hawaiian Gardens to see how it is progressing.

I have Greg’s 2332 build with the A1 sidewinder I am generally happy plenty of power but having said that I would trade that power for a more 356 like smoothness. I believe these big engines have too long stroke, or is it the heads? I’m curious to know why they aren’t smoother. I think the ideal engine for these cars would be the Willhoit upgrade of the 356 engine but that’s 15k plus you Porsche 4banger. Another area to whine about is the tranny and final drive ratio. My car has a two speed, 1st is to get going 4th I never use so I’m always between 2nd and 3 rd they are not well matched for me. If I were to do it again I wood spend less on the engine and a lot more on the tranny. Please out there remember this whole experience is a learning curve and is enjoyable given the reasonable VW prices.Cheers. Next time let’s  talk about the frame and suspension, Mendeola anyone?

@R Thorpe posted:

I have Greg’s 2332 build with the A1 sidewinder I am generally happy plenty of power but having said that I would trade that power for a more 356 like smoothness. I believe these big engines have too long stroke, or is it the heads? I’m curious to know why they aren’t smoother. I think the ideal engine for these cars would be the Willhoit upgrade of the 356 engine but that’s 15k plus you Porsche 4banger. Another area to whine about is the tranny and final drive ratio. My car has a two speed, 1st is to get going 4th I never use so I’m always between 2nd and 3 rd they are not well matched for me. If I were to do it again I wood spend less on the engine and a lot more on the tranny. Please out there remember this whole experience is a learning curve and is enjoyable given the reasonable VW prices.Cheers. Next time let’s  talk about the frame and suspension, Mendeola anyone?

Since I am already in the pixelated group I will comment.

Mr Thorpe, I think that is the dilemna when you are at the larger engine size then you have to look at the tranny gearing not matching the engine power ban.

The 3:44 with a 2110cc 140ish hp often had me between 2nd and 3rd somewhat lost till you got to the cruising speed.   So yes it worked but sometimes NOT..

When I decided to build a new one I chose full subie tranny and all and it has quite a nice ramp up between gears without dead spots as the 4sp had and also there is no requirement to keep the engine spinning at 3k with the broader power band/ torque band of the subie powertrain.  But you never get it right, as I would like to try a lower 5th so the madness is the continual upgrade path can hit you.

Mike,

I don’t know what to tell you, I have the 2332 with a souped up tranny with a 344 rear end. I would not like to be in the position of these builders, we and our desires are so different, I ordered my car in June and got it in November. Greg did a great job and I would not hesitate to recommend him, but he is not a mind reader. I believe that acquiring all the knowledge is what the boys here call “the madness”.

@ALB.  We need Al To comment on gear ratios here Always an interesting topic.

Your point regarding being a mind reader is a real valid point it also works both ways as many times you don’t know what questions to ask or what has been done or what your options truly are because hardly any cars are around for you to try or what the differences are between one model or another one tranny or another one engine or another hence the continual upgrade when you find someone else’s car has a nice feature that you should or you could have. So in the end if you could have all the possible option choices in one selection book it might help you then there is the complicated understanding that a builder has a standard offering and a process flow for building his cars where too many options may interrupt and affect his bottom line

Last edited by IaM-Ray

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@R Thorpe , we've had endless discussions here about gearing for these cars and the problems inappropriate gearing causes. A little searching through the archives will turn up all kinds of treatises, diatribes, scholarly works, impassioned position papers, and more than a little horse pucky. I may have even contributed to some of the above, but I won't tell you in which category.

I think the problem at base is that the stock VW transaxle was geared for a 25 hp motor and most of us are running way more than that. Also, roads and expected cruising speeds are a lot different today than they were in 1955. The modern cars we're all used to driving have more than four forward gears. Most, way more.

I agree, we should put at least as much thought into choosing gearing as into how much engine we're buying, but we tend to have a better gut feel for how different power levels will feel in a car than we understand gearing. For most, this is the first car where we've even had to think about gearing, and we usually don't find that out until it's too late.

These cars are about as different from Toyotas and Hondas as it's possible to be. Probably the best advice is to drive as many of them as you can before deciding on the specs for your car.

Last edited by Sacto Mitch
@R Thorpe posted:

I have Greg’s 2332 build with the A1 sidewinder I am generally happy plenty of power but having said that I would trade that power for a more 356 like smoothness. I believe these big engines have too long stroke, or is it the heads? I’m curious to know why they aren’t smoother. I think the ideal engine for these cars would be the Willhoit upgrade of the 356 engine but that’s 15k plus you Porsche 4banger. Another area to whine about is the tranny and final drive ratio. My car has a two speed, 1st is to get going 4th I never use so I’m always between 2nd and 3 rd they are not well matched for me. If I were to do it again I wood spend less on the engine and a lot more on the tranny. Please out there remember this whole experience is a learning curve and is enjoyable given the reasonable VW prices.Cheers. Next time let’s  talk about the frame and suspension, Mendeola anyone?

Could you explain that in a little more detail?  Do you know what ring & pinion is in your transaxle?  Do you mean you don't like the gap between 2nd and 3rd?  I'm guessing 1st through 4th gears are stock VW?  Please elaborate...   Al

And my apologies to Greg at VM (because I don't know)- does anybody know what's in their 3.88 transaxle that makes it a $2,000 upgrade?

PS- does anybody have a favorite online gear ratio calculator?  My 2 faves (MFactory and John Maher Racing) are both out of commission.  I know there are others out there...

Last edited by ALB
@R Thorpe posted:

My R&P is 3.44 and yes the revs in second are too high then the shift to third the revs are too low, forth is useless for the kind of driving I do. I go on the freeway reluctantly. The times I’ve returned the car to Vintage  30 very scary freeway miles away I’ve had it flat bedded.

Do you not like the revs at freeway speeds?  Or what is it about the freeway drive you don't like?  So you'd like to close up the 2nd-3rd hole a little bit and shorten 4th as well?  What speed range do you see as being useful in 4th?  Do you know what you have for 4th now?  How high is the engine revving in 4th when at 70 mph?

PS- Do you like 1st and 2nd?

Last edited by ALB

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