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I think many (and some here) miss the point of a classic car (even if it is a replica). Many old cars have classic lines. The 356 bathtub has better lines than most, timeless even. The rich guys think their 356 should be as fast and luxurious as the modern Porsche or Merc. Ya 0-60 in seconds flat. Hit 100 like nobodies business.

Fact is, most of these replica 356's are faster than the originals. And disposable enough to take more risk with them. V8 horsepower in a 356 body is unrealistic - sure a few have done it.

I laugh at the guys who can't handle that a 356 is slower than the modern Porsche - they don't get it. But I agree... a faster than original 356 is fun, and desirable. Within reason! Also remember there is very little in the way of safety built into these cars.

My Subaru powered coupe gets the extra power easily. No its not a rocketship, but it will keep my attention on the mountain curves and not bog or overheat on the grades. I can over drive the relatively skinny tires on it - they will howl. ...Two nice advantages to think of... A/C is not required on an open car. Skin cancer is avoided in a coupe! Lol An air cooled VW engine can have good power too, but they can be/are more finicky. ...Yet I drove my dual carbed Karmann Ghia without worry in Las Vegas Nv. It was a faster VW.

There are reasonable guys & eccentric guys... Takes all kinds. And its fun (and maybe expensive) to have that one off original replica. Build it your way!

Just to keep the HP reasonable for these vehicles in perspective:

The 901/911 began in 1965 with a 1991cc/130 HP engine.

The earlier 550 had a 1498cc/110 HP engine.

The highest HP for a 356 was 95. I have owned a 1965 356SC coupe for 47 years. It is quieter and smoother than my 2019 VMC 2332cc/145 HP Speedster, but the latter is quicker and has more torque. Both have plenty of HP for their design, and are always great fun to take out for their road exercise.

Choosing Greg's larger engine now is about the same as choosing a "Super" over a "Normal" back in the '50s.

Enjoy the build process, and plan a few visits to Hawaiian Gardens to see how it is progressing.

I have Greg’s 2332 build with the A1 sidewinder I am generally happy plenty of power but having said that I would trade that power for a more 356 like smoothness. I believe these big engines have too long stroke, or is it the heads? I’m curious to know why they aren’t smoother. I think the ideal engine for these cars would be the Willhoit upgrade of the 356 engine but that’s 15k plus you Porsche 4banger. Another area to whine about is the tranny and final drive ratio. My car has a two speed, 1st is to get going 4th I never use so I’m always between 2nd and 3 rd they are not well matched for me. If I were to do it again I wood spend less on the engine and a lot more on the tranny. Please out there remember this whole experience is a learning curve and is enjoyable given the reasonable VW prices.Cheers. Next time let’s  talk about the frame and suspension, Mendeola anyone?

@R Thorpe posted:

I have Greg’s 2332 build with the A1 sidewinder I am generally happy plenty of power but having said that I would trade that power for a more 356 like smoothness. I believe these big engines have too long stroke, or is it the heads? I’m curious to know why they aren’t smoother. I think the ideal engine for these cars would be the Willhoit upgrade of the 356 engine but that’s 15k plus you Porsche 4banger. Another area to whine about is the tranny and final drive ratio. My car has a two speed, 1st is to get going 4th I never use so I’m always between 2nd and 3 rd they are not well matched for me. If I were to do it again I wood spend less on the engine and a lot more on the tranny. Please out there remember this whole experience is a learning curve and is enjoyable given the reasonable VW prices.Cheers. Next time let’s  talk about the frame and suspension, Mendeola anyone?

Since I am already in the pixelated group I will comment.

Mr Thorpe, I think that is the dilemna when you are at the larger engine size then you have to look at the tranny gearing not matching the engine power ban.

The 3:44 with a 2110cc 140ish hp often had me between 2nd and 3rd somewhat lost till you got to the cruising speed.   So yes it worked but sometimes NOT..

When I decided to build a new one I chose full subie tranny and all and it has quite a nice ramp up between gears without dead spots as the 4sp had and also there is no requirement to keep the engine spinning at 3k with the broader power band/ torque band of the subie powertrain.  But you never get it right, as I would like to try a lower 5th so the madness is the continual upgrade path can hit you.

Mike,

I don’t know what to tell you, I have the 2332 with a souped up tranny with a 344 rear end. I would not like to be in the position of these builders, we and our desires are so different, I ordered my car in June and got it in November. Greg did a great job and I would not hesitate to recommend him, but he is not a mind reader. I believe that acquiring all the knowledge is what the boys here call “the madness”.

@ALB.  We need Al To comment on gear ratios here Always an interesting topic.

Your point regarding being a mind reader is a real valid point it also works both ways as many times you don’t know what questions to ask or what has been done or what your options truly are because hardly any cars are around for you to try or what the differences are between one model or another one tranny or another one engine or another hence the continual upgrade when you find someone else’s car has a nice feature that you should or you could have. So in the end if you could have all the possible option choices in one selection book it might help you then there is the complicated understanding that a builder has a standard offering and a process flow for building his cars where too many options may interrupt and affect his bottom line

Last edited by IaM-Ray

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@R Thorpe , we've had endless discussions here about gearing for these cars and the problems inappropriate gearing causes. A little searching through the archives will turn up all kinds of treatises, diatribes, scholarly works, impassioned position papers, and more than a little horse pucky. I may have even contributed to some of the above, but I won't tell you in which category.

I think the problem at base is that the stock VW transaxle was geared for a 25 hp motor and most of us are running way more than that. Also, roads and expected cruising speeds are a lot different today than they were in 1955. The modern cars we're all used to driving have more than four forward gears. Most, way more.

I agree, we should put at least as much thought into choosing gearing as into how much engine we're buying, but we tend to have a better gut feel for how different power levels will feel in a car than we understand gearing. For most, this is the first car where we've even had to think about gearing, and we usually don't find that out until it's too late.

These cars are about as different from Toyotas and Hondas as it's possible to be. Probably the best advice is to drive as many of them as you can before deciding on the specs for your car.

Last edited by Sacto Mitch
@R Thorpe posted:

I have Greg’s 2332 build with the A1 sidewinder I am generally happy plenty of power but having said that I would trade that power for a more 356 like smoothness. I believe these big engines have too long stroke, or is it the heads? I’m curious to know why they aren’t smoother. I think the ideal engine for these cars would be the Willhoit upgrade of the 356 engine but that’s 15k plus you Porsche 4banger. Another area to whine about is the tranny and final drive ratio. My car has a two speed, 1st is to get going 4th I never use so I’m always between 2nd and 3 rd they are not well matched for me. If I were to do it again I wood spend less on the engine and a lot more on the tranny. Please out there remember this whole experience is a learning curve and is enjoyable given the reasonable VW prices.Cheers. Next time let’s  talk about the frame and suspension, Mendeola anyone?

Could you explain that in a little more detail?  Do you know what ring & pinion is in your transaxle?  Do you mean you don't like the gap between 2nd and 3rd?  I'm guessing 1st through 4th gears are stock VW?  Please elaborate...   Al

And my apologies to Greg at VM (because I don't know)- does anybody know what's in their 3.88 transaxle that makes it a $2,000 upgrade?

PS- does anybody have a favorite online gear ratio calculator?  My 2 faves (MFactory and John Maher Racing) are both out of commission.  I know there are others out there...

Last edited by ALB
@R Thorpe posted:

My R&P is 3.44 and yes the revs in second are too high then the shift to third the revs are too low, forth is useless for the kind of driving I do. I go on the freeway reluctantly. The times I’ve returned the car to Vintage  30 very scary freeway miles away I’ve had it flat bedded.

Do you not like the revs at freeway speeds?  Or what is it about the freeway drive you don't like?  So you'd like to close up the 2nd-3rd hole a little bit and shorten 4th as well?  What speed range do you see as being useful in 4th?  Do you know what you have for 4th now?  How high is the engine revving in 4th when at 70 mph?

PS- Do you like 1st and 2nd?

Last edited by ALB
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