I honestly think that one of the Weiner dogs ate the Brass Thingie.
@Lane Anderson posted:When I'm working on a project that takes more than a day I tend to generate piles of stuff (tools, fasteners, parts, etc.) in several places in the garage. Somehow I know which pile to go to for a particular wrench or bolt even a week later. I may not remember where I left my glasses a minute ago, but I can find that socket that I need - even a 10mm one!
I used to brag about having all my 10mm sockets. I did the fluids in one of my ML's the other day and my 3/8 drive 10mm Allen that I needed for the differentials was nowhere to be found. 
Had to resort to the crescent wrench on an Allen wrench workaround.
I came across this master cylinder offering form AC Industries today , claims to be specific for front disc rear drums w/ a 19mm bore , the master cylinder I mentioned previously is a 20.6 bore .... At the bottom of this ad you'll see the link for the bigger bore master cylinder. https://socalautoparts.com/pro...fits-67-77-bug-ghia/
Funny story: Years ago I had an Audi 5000 CS Quattro 4DSD. The clutch was physically fine, but I couldn't tell if the hydraulic master or slave was bad. So I replaced both. The master was a really LARGE pain to change. The slave was pretty easy.
I tried bleeding it with a vacuum bleeder by myself. I tried bleeding it with a pressure bleeder by myself. No pedal. Then I got a friend's help to bleed it the old fashioned way. It came right up, like it should. After the job was finished, I couldn't find my 7mm combination wrench. I guess I left it at my buddy's house where we changed the parts, oh well.
I found it a year later when I was under there looking at the exhaust or something. It was still on the bleeder!
Back in the spring I cleaned out and reorganized the garage, fully expecting to find it after all these years, but no sign of it. There are three possibilities: it bounced outside the garage and was blown or swept away years ago; it found its way under the water heater where I can’t see it, or it fell into a passing wormhole. I’m going with #3.
Maybe it's found its way into a squirrel nest somewhere...
Maybe it's in Gordon's shed/pool filter area. It is the True Brass Shard of The Holy Squirrel or something like that. Who even knows?
There is nothing disorganized about Ed's work bench. If you look closely, each little pile of tools represents a specific subset procedure of the overall project.............Bruce
I submerged the master cylinder in brake fluid in a cut water bottle . Worked for me just push the piston til bubbles stops appearing.
That is an awesome hint/tip! I never thought of that.
Samba trick
Back in the day's a friend had the same issue,
He changed the left and right calliper, so the bleeding points where on the lower side.
it was hard to bleed air, though good for draining the system.
I'm not sure if this applies to your bleeding problem, but I recently replaced a master cylinder and had a problem bleeding and getting good pedal pressure. Turned out that I just needed to adjust the rod, that presses the master cylinder piston (attached to the brake pedal). It was turned in so far that the pedal was almost to the floor before it even contacted the master cylinder piston. I turned it out so the pedal only had to be depressed about 1/4" inch before it started to press the MC piston. Then I rebled all four wheels and had a full pedal with great breaks.
Perfect free play. Not to be taken for granted.
@Troy Sloan posted:I'm not sure if this applies to your bleeding problem, but I recently replaced a master cylinder and had a problem bleeding and getting good pedal pressure. Turned out that I just needed to adjust the rod, that presses the master cylinder piston (attached to the brake pedal). It was turned in so far that the pedal was almost to the floor before it even contacted the master cylinder piston. I turned it out so the pedal only had to be depressed about 1/4" inch before it started to press the MC piston. Then I rebled all four wheels and had a full pedal with great breaks.
The Bentley VW Service Manual tells you NOT to adjust that rod, that it comes pre-set from the factory, but then again, why make it adjustable if they don't want you to do it, right? I can bet you that the vast majority of these cars have been messed with in the last 40 plus years and more that the donor pans were rolling around.
Bentley tells you not to adjust the rod in a Beetle , they didn't know about Replicas back in the day . Adjustments are necessary when the pedal stop is moved, warn etc. You adjust the rod so that there is a just a " click " ( 1/16") between the pedal in the rest position and rod contact with the master cylinder piston. This free play adjustment assures that the rod is in the rest position. w/o out that free play, you can bleed endlessly without success.
When I did my CNC pedals, I ended up adjusting the heck out of both my brake and clutch to get the relationship to the throttle just right. I think the brake ended up with about 5/16" of play and the clutch 3/8".
@Alan Merklin posted:Bentley tells you not to adjust the rod in a Beetle , they didn't know about Replicas back in the day . Adjustments are necessary when the pedal stop is moved, warn etc. You adjust the rod so that there is a just a " click " ( 1/16") between the pedal in the rest position and rod contact with the master cylinder piston. This free play adjustment assures that the rod is in the rest position. w/o out that free play, you can bleed endlessly without success.
Great point, Alan. Thanks!
Folks,
Don't confuse the amount of free-play at the pedal with the amount of free-play at the rod!
Arrestingly Yours,
Brake Masterson