Starting to ponder some changes as I picked up a rebuilt trans out of a 73 beetle. So swapping out the 69 for a 73 will be an improvement. With an 1835 and dual dell 40's I'm not burning rubber but do want to keep the nose from breaking. So what would be the better moves to make when R&R of the trans--What would you do?
Some ideas: No I do not have a fat bank account--retiring May 31st.
Early built CMC on 69 pan.
1. Where to get OEM cradle mounts or close too--I do not buy empi?
2. Which throw out bearing, disc, plate--have been out of shopping for many years.
3. Kafer bar or not. My left carb sits higher than the right by an inch+--could have twisted horns? Would I be able to over time get them straightened out or better to take it to a frame shop when trans is out?
4. I have the round shroud with the straight forward outlets--no doghouse. My oil cooler mounted in wheel well is piped into a short stand on rear of block. Setrab cooler in well. Would like to drive in cooler weather--go with stock shroud? (which year?) I have seat heaters going in later. How would this effect how the cooler is set up now?? Do I need to repipe it? Learned how to braid lines when I did this 3 years ago--just a few nicks in the hands.
Enough for now--please just answer between the lines.
1- I'm guessing you're looking for the stock VW rubber mounts that go on the trans cradle- Berg, CB Perf., Aircooled.net and any number of shops have them. Berg has the slightly harder stock version (I believe they're actually a bus part)-
which work really well in any car with a hotrodded engine for $9.
2- What Danny said- if, in the bellhousing area there is a guide tube over the input shaft you'll need the later throwout bearing and pressure plate without the center collar. If your clutch is in good shape you could pop the center collar off and just buy the throwout bearing, but if it's got big mileage on it, you're feeling even a little slippage or there's any doubt at all buy new.
3- Yes, your frame horns are twisted slightly. You could try using a Kafer bar to pull the right side up (and push the left side down if needed), since if you're a 'spirited driving" enthusiast is a good idea anyway. Make sure the rear cradle is bolted in.
A midmount- http://www.geneberg.com/produc...amp;products_id=1064
will keep the nose cone from moving and the front mount from tearing. Drill some holes in it- mine weighed over 5 lbs and there's no reason for it to be that heavy (the flat plate is 3/8"- wayyy overkill!). I've got mine down to just under 3 lbs, but as my friend Bruce keeps telling me, I'm just polishing a turd, so I've bought some aluminum ¼" plate and an 18" piece of 1½ x1½" square tubing so when finished it will weigh under 2 lbs. This is Bruce's midmount- the ends are double walled (1¼x1¼" inside) for strength.
There are simpler (and cheaper) midmounts that don't require welding and use red polyurethane pieces that 'rest' against the bottoms of the frame horns, but unless the fit is really tight (and the shape of frame horns varies from year to year, so it probably won't be) you'll still have some up and certainly doesn't control any down movement at all, so are really not worth it.
4- I'm a fan of the stock doghouse cooler/shroud, but if what you have is working, why change it. If you're having trouble getting the engine up to proper operating temps (oil 180° F.) in the early spring and late fall- pull the over the exhaust engine tin. Keep it (and a screwdriver) in the car in case you have to re-install it mid drive.
I don't understand the question- why would seat heaters affect the cooler?
Hope this helps. Al