Starting to ponder some changes as I picked up a rebuilt trans out of a 73 beetle. So swapping out the 69 for a 73 will be an improvement. With an 1835 and dual dell 40's I'm not burning rubber but do want to keep the nose from breaking. So what would be the better moves to make when R&R of the trans--What would you do?

Some ideas: No I do not have a fat bank account--retiring May 31st.

Early built CMC on 69 pan.

1. Where to get OEM cradle mounts or close too--I do not buy empi?

2. Which throw out bearing, disc, plate--have been out of shopping for many years.

3. Kafer bar or not. My left carb sits higher than the right by an inch+--could have twisted horns? Would I be able to over time get them straightened out or better to take it to a frame shop when trans is out?

4. I have the round shroud with the straight forward outlets--no doghouse. My oil cooler mounted in wheel well is piped into a short stand on rear of block. Setrab cooler in well. Would like to drive in cooler weather--go with stock shroud? (which year?) I have seat heaters going in later. How would this effect how the cooler is set up now?? Do I need to repipe it? Learned how to braid lines when I did this 3 years ago--just a few nicks in the hands.

Enough for now--please just answer between the lines.

Thanks,

            David

 

 

       

Original Post

Early built CMC on 69 pan.

1. Where to get OEM cradle mounts or close too--I do not buy empi?    Good used from Jack at Bug Stuff West Brownsville PA he has a three story old whse filled with good used and has a retail store too. 

2. Which throw out bearing, disc, plate--have been out of shopping for many years.  Sach brand is fine

3. Kafer bar or not. My left carb sits higher than the right by an inch+--could have twisted horns? Would I be able to over time get them straightened out or better to take it to a frame shop when trans is out?  With the trans out and a guy that knows what he is doing heating things up...also be sure to check you don't have metal fatigue inside issues. 

4. I have the round shroud with the straight forward outlets--no doghouse. My oil cooler mounted in wheel well is piped into a short stand on rear of block. Setrab cooler in well. Would like to drive in cooler weather--go with stock shroud? (which year?) ...I have seat heaters going in later. How would this effect how the cooler is set up now?? Do I need to repipe it? Learned how to braid lines when I did this 3 years ago--just a few nicks in the hands.  Jack at Bug Stuff can advise you what he can provide for your set up.     724 785 7000 closed Mondays 

Alan

I've seen where the frame horns rust from inside out.  I'd do some tapping with a hammer to ensure they are solid.  There are replacement weld in horns available.  The Kafer would indeed preserve them a bit but if they are off now it won't fix it.

I bought this rear hunk for the title, VIN area and the '74 transaxle - check out the one (left) frame horn.

10 may 2010 03810 may 2010 03774 rear chassis 1

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I can answer your #2 question about the clutch, and some questions about the transmission.

Clutch: your 69 trans probably has an early throwout bearing with the ring mounted in the clutch fingers, and an early clutch, but should be 200mm. For the newer trans buy a later clutch and throwout bearing, which your new trans will require.

Trans: You'll need to swap out the nosecone(with hockey stick) and mount from your 69 trans to the 73.

The 69 trans is a double side cover, but the 73 has only one side cover and is the strongest from the factory in a Beetle.

The gearing should be 3.10/2.06/1.26/0.93 with a 3.875 final drive. Decent gearing for a slightly lighter 1835cc Speedster with dual carbs. Not too short and not too tall.

Let me know if you need some more help.

Heritage 2008 posted:

Starting to ponder some changes as I picked up a rebuilt trans out of a 73 beetle. So swapping out the 69 for a 73 will be an improvement. With an 1835 and dual dell 40's I'm not burning rubber but do want to keep the nose from breaking. So what would be the better moves to make when R&R of the trans--What would you do?

Some ideas: No I do not have a fat bank account--retiring May 31st.

Early built CMC on 69 pan.

1. Where to get OEM cradle mounts or close too--I do not buy empi?

2. Which throw out bearing, disc, plate--have been out of shopping for many years.

3. Kafer bar or not. My left carb sits higher than the right by an inch+--could have twisted horns? Would I be able to over time get them straightened out or better to take it to a frame shop when trans is out?

4. I have the round shroud with the straight forward outlets--no doghouse. My oil cooler mounted in wheel well is piped into a short stand on rear of block. Setrab cooler in well. Would like to drive in cooler weather--go with stock shroud? (which year?) I have seat heaters going in later. How would this effect how the cooler is set up now?? Do I need to repipe it? Learned how to braid lines when I did this 3 years ago--just a few nicks in the hands.

Enough for now--please just answer between the lines.

Thanks,

            David

 

 

       

1- I'm guessing you're looking for the stock VW rubber mounts that go on the trans cradle- Berg, CB Perf., Aircooled.net and any number of shops have them. Berg has the slightly harder stock version (I believe they're actually a bus part)- 

 http://www.geneberg.com/produc...amp;products_id=1059

which work really well in any car with a hotrodded engine for $9.

2- What Danny said- if, in the bellhousing area there is a guide tube over the input shaft you'll need the later throwout bearing and pressure plate without the center collar. If your clutch is in good shape you could pop the center collar off and just buy the throwout bearing, but if it's got big mileage on it, you're feeling even a little slippage or there's any doubt at all buy new.

3- Yes, your frame horns are twisted slightly. You could try using a Kafer bar to pull the right side up (and push the left side down if needed), since if you're a 'spirited driving" enthusiast is a good idea anyway. Make sure the rear cradle is bolted in. 

A midmount-  http://www.geneberg.com/produc...amp;products_id=1064

will keep the nose cone from moving and the front mount from tearing. Drill some holes in it- mine weighed over 5 lbs and there's no reason for it to be that heavy (the flat plate is 3/8"- wayyy overkill!). I've got mine down to just under 3 lbs, but as my friend Bruce keeps telling me, I'm just  polishing a turd, so I've bought some aluminum ¼" plate and an 18" piece of 1½ x1½" square tubing so when finished it will weigh under 2 lbs. This is Bruce's midmount- the ends are double walled (1¼x1¼" inside) for strength.

lightened midmount- Bruce's

There are simpler (and cheaper) midmounts that don't require welding and use red polyurethane pieces that 'rest' against the bottoms of the frame horns, but unless the fit is really tight (and the shape of frame horns varies from year to year, so it probably won't be) you'll still have some up and certainly doesn't control any down movement at all, so are really not worth it.

4- I'm a fan of the stock doghouse cooler/shroud, but if what you have is working, why change it. If you're having trouble getting the engine up to proper operating temps (oil 180° F.) in the early spring and late fall- pull the over the exhaust engine tin. Keep it (and a screwdriver) in the car in case you have to re-install it mid drive.

I don't understand the question- why would seat heaters affect the cooler?

Hope this helps. Al

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Last edited by ALB

Great thoughts/ideas so far--keep them coming.

I had no idea I needed to swap out the nose--Thanks. I had just put in a new front rubber mount by sliding everything back (tricky and tight) but came out great.

Have read that red(poly) is not a good color for mounts. 

The horns do not look like they have ever been hit and show no rust-look solid. Would sloppy trans mounts-nose and bell housing weak mounts let the engine flex enough to cause a higher left side after some "spirited runs"? I think that that is the same rotation of the engine?? Speedy is in storage for a few more weeks.

For an 1835 it has excellent get up.

I am the 2nd owner--no documents or notes passed forward due to PO passing before sale. 

Dune buggie guys reportedly bend the frame horns via jumps. I would think loose or broken motor mounts could do it too. Those old Bugs have been through a lot, most of 'em. 

Last edited by edsnova
Heritage 2008 posted:

 

Have read that red(poly) is not a good color for mounts. 

The horns do not look like they have ever been hit and show no rust-look solid. Would sloppy trans mounts-nose and bell housing weak mounts let the engine flex enough to cause a higher left side after some "spirited runs"? I think that that is the same rotation of the engine?? 

Here's what a red polyurethane (note it's Sway-a-way brand!) front mount looks like after a few thousand miles- 

transaxle front mount

the rears didn't fare any better (I just kept the front for the trophy wall). This happened in my 14 second Cal Look bug with an engine support bar in place! They are noisier than stock mounts too. Stick with the stock VW transaxle mounts; the trick is to keep the trans assembly from moving so it can't tear them up. And yes, "spirited" driving (even with a stock engine) tears up mounts and bends frame horns. Al

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There used to be heavy duty rubber mounts available, but I don't know now.

I did use the CB yellow Rhino mounts for a while. Although they add vibration, they are durable. They won't break.

Heritage 2008 posted:

Great thoughts/ideas so far--keep them coming.

 

I am the 2nd owner--no documents or notes passed forward due to PO passing before sale. 

That is a problem with this hobby some leave it by choice others by fossilization.

A bit of both, actually, Danny, but you're right, more off the tranny nose cone.  Had a similar problem with the weber intake manifolds.  Poor castings I guess.  Sent 'em off to my machinist buddy and he polished the inside too. They were pretty rough.

The barter system is alive and well. 

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