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Dear Michael,

Thanks for the link, if it is not too difficult, can you let me know which SKU# did you use for the inside and the outside (as it seems they are of different size)

I spoke with the guys from CU layers, and they said that it only works with the original teardrop rear light husing, our replica apparently has a slightly different dimension inside the housing and will not work.


Thanks Lane.

Eddy, the wiring is different too, as I said above.

The small LED lights replace a 1156 single filament bulb, GEN125CLUSTER, red.

The large LED lights replace a 1157 dual filament bulb, GEN185CLUSTER, red.

The small ones were too small to span from one side of the reflector to the other. I used a C-shaped shim from the hardware store and ground the edges to conform to the shape of the reflector.

The large ones are stuck in place with some epoxy putty.

I wish the large ones were slightly smaller. The chrome bezel touches the LED things on the edge.

The big ones have 48 LEDs and the small ones have 24 LEDs. I am a little bothered that it is the brake lights with only 24 LEDs. But, I expect them to be brighter than the incandescent bulbs and I have my flashing 3rd brake light under the grille.

The LED units come with a thing like the base of a bulb on the end of the wires. You just plug it into the socket like you would a bulb.
Gas tank:

I foolishly had the tank powdercoated before I cleaned the inside with acetone. Even though the tank was wrapped with three layers of protection and duct taped around the openings, the acetone damaged the coating on the top. I had to paint over the powdercoating.

I am using a Karmann Ghia sender to avoid needle bounce.

Rubber strips are stuck in the grooves on the top of the tank. The center one has a recess on the bottom to conceal the sender wires.

The cap on the sender was from an old VW mechanical sender that I had chromed.

The braided stainless vent hose was not needed but I had the hose and fittings. The adapters the hose connects to are AN-4 with a pipe thread on the other end. At the tank I cut off the threads and drilled out the fitting to fit over the tube on the tank neck. Then I epoxied the fitting to the tube.

I discovered the hardware store had nuts in the electrical department that fit pipe threads. The other AN fitting goes through a hole in the fiberglass with the special nut inside the fender well. This fitting was also drilled out to accept the one-way valve which is stuck in with silicone. The rubber hose from the valve loops up to the top of the fender then down below the pan.

The stock VW gas cap has an aluminum cover.

I had to use thick weather stripping around the edge of the tank to raise it up a bit because the underside was hitting fiberglass.

A guy on Samba was selling the clamps I used and I had to have spacer blocks made to raise them up due to the thick weatherstripping.


Images (1)
  • tank
Front Speakers Installed:

I started this thread with my unusual speakers.

Cory mentioned that he wanted to see how they would be installed.

I had to go through 3 sets of picture frames before I was finished.

Set number 2 was too thick to fit above the steering column so I had to get some thinner ones.

The first picture is looking from the seat area.

The second is looking up from the floor.

The rear edge of the frame is held with two bolts into the steel tube.

One forward corner is clipped to the bolt that holds the gas tank.

The two switches near the steering column are for 4-way flashers and for disabling the radio antenna. I don't want it to go up when I am listening to MP3s.

The little chrome knob left of the steering column is for the trip odometer. Some of you may have the control for this coming through the face of the speedometer.


Images (2)
  • Speaker Driver 1
  • Speaker Driver 2
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