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Metal Finishing

Rich DrewekRich Drewek Supporting Member
Hey guys, my Speedster Type 4 engine install is on the home stretch. Over the past week we have added these 1/8" aluminum panels for engine bay sealing and just plain old dressing up of the engine compatment. I did a little practice technique-sanding for the "brushed look" and with some patience and time I think that will be relatively easy to accomplish. I used some laqer thinner to degrease and remove any black spots/finger prints etc. This all seems to be the easy part. The trick is, how can I keep it that way. Initially I thought a high temp clear coat, but I'm afraid that won't be as durable over time, possibly yellowing and any possible spills of who knows what might not be the best solution. Then there's the anodizing route...but can I keep a brushed-look if I anodize? And if I wanted to anodize. I'm wondering what that might cost me? From the pix here, you can see that I have a top shelf piece roughly 12" x 40", 2 firewall piece(s) about 12" x 40" total, a 2"x 2"x40" right angle on that corner and two skirt pieces that will surround the engine left and right (actually those still need to be scribed-currently they are just templates in the pix). Anyone have any opinions on this subject and ball park costs for anodizing? BTW, I'm running a thread of the whole engine process within STF.com (Is it ok to mention that here? I don't know if this is considered a SO.com sin or not, if so I apologize),"Type 4 into a Beck Speedster" within the Type4rum category if anyone wants to slide over there and see the whole process. Thanks in advance for any advice on this subject.

Crash Test Dummy Guy

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Rich DrewekRich Drewek Supporting Member
Hey guys, my Speedster Type 4 engine install is on the home stretch. Over the past week we have added these 1/8" aluminum panels for engine bay sealing and just plain old dressing up of the engine compatment. I did a little practice technique-sanding for the "brushed look" and with some patience and time I think that will be relatively easy to accomplish. I used some laqer thinner to degrease and remove any black spots/finger prints etc. This all seems to be the easy part. The trick is, how can I keep it that way. Initially I thought a high temp clear coat, but I'm afraid that won't be as durable over time, possibly yellowing and any possible spills of who knows what might not be the best solution. Then there's the anodizing route...but can I keep a brushed-look if I anodize? And if I wanted to anodize. I'm wondering what that might cost me? From the pix here, you can see that I have a top shelf piece roughly 12" x 40", 2 firewall piece(s) about 12" x 40" total, a 2"x 2"x40" right angle on that corner and two skirt pieces that will surround the engine left and right (actually those still need to be scribed-currently they are just templates in the pix). Anyone have any opinions on this subject and ball park costs for anodizing? BTW, I'm running a thread of the whole engine process within STF.com (Is it ok to mention that here? I don't know if this is considered a SO.com sin or not, if so I apologize),"Type 4 into a Beck Speedster" within the Type4rum category if anyone wants to slide over there and see the whole process. Thanks in advance for any advice on this subject.

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Gordon NicholsGordon NicholsMassachusetts 1993 CMC Supporting Member
"Shop Talk Forums", Lane.....

Where a bunch of us hang out (or lurk).

Yeah, it's OK to talk about other sites on here. Some, especially those in Europe, are doing some seriously cool stuff.

I would suspect that it'll be harder to find someone to anodize your parts than someone to powder coat them. There are several colors/shades of anodizing that you might choose from, and depending on how they do it it may or may not wear well. Just remember that it's a very thin coating that is bonded very well to the base metal.

You can anodize over a brushed finish (what you'll achieve with sanding) and it will retain the brushed look (it's very thin, remember?), although, because it's now colored it may highlight sanding in different directions - not necessarily cool. I used to specify black and/or yellow anodized parts for some computers we used to build, usually for areas of moderate wear, and they stood up well. Later on, we went to a highly durable powder coating with much better results - cheaper to apply and care for, too.

Gordon
The Speedstah Guy from Beaufort
Rich DrewekRich Drewek Supporting Member
Thanks, Wolfgang. I have thought of this in the past and though I do like the technique, I really don't like it for a Speedster. Seems to Classic Car or Hot Roddy to me. The answer I'm looking for is how to finish the surface. Clear coat, anodize or I think I read about some form of a chemical coating? But I do appreciate you chiming in. BTW, I haven't totally forgotten your cooling shroud. I actually put it in a box earlier this week. I've been half heartedly thinking of coming to Carlisle where the postal rates are much cheaper for you.
Alan MerklinAlan MerklinDrclock - Elkins, West Virginia Supporting Member
Engine turned surface can also be done with a drill press, nail or wood dowel, a Scotch scuffy green pad and super glue.
Cut a piece of metal tubbing... the diameter you want the engine turn swirls to be, make a punch to cut the Scotch pads just sharpen the pipe edge on a grinder, place the pad on a piece of wood and tap the pipe punch with hammer to cut out your round pads. Glue the round piece to a nail head with Super glue, your ready to make an engine turned piece. The lay out - set up on the metal takes longer to do that it takes to make up the Scotch pad pieces.........
You'll need to practice to see how many times you can use a pad before it begins wearing to the point that it changes the swirl mark, one slight miss and the piece is junk.
Jack CrosbyJack CrosbyHot Springs, AR, VS RabyTypeIV

Richard---man--are you having fun or what!! You are going to love your type IV, as I do.

When I was choosing options I wanted to avoud the "hot Rod" look remembering that old phrase "chrome won't get you home" so I opted for a plain industrial mechanical look. No colors, chrome, louvers,
clear dist caps (good lord) or so forth. The oil breather is hidden behind the firewall to keep it all clean and functional looking.

But that's just one opinion and as you would see at Carlisle, the inventiveness you will see is just astounding, and I say to each his own, and it's definitely all good.

I did make one concession lately that I like a lot and that is a panel of carbon fiber material on the firewall instead of that tarpaper looking fiberboard that the car came with. Also my car never goes over 195 oil temp with the DTM and Setrabexternal oil cooler with thermostst, so I don't need that 10" round hole with the chickenwire cover to let more air in, so it works great to cover the firewall. The panel is prettry thin --maybe 1/8" but I think it looks cool and in line with what I was trying to accomplish. I hope you come to Carlisle so I can show it to you.

BUT--Richard, do your car the way YOU want it and you will enjoy it all the more.
Lane AndersonLane AndersonMt. Pleasant, SC Supporting Member
It secures you the right to park on the showfield. You can choose to park with the other Porsche folks, or next to us where the fun is.

Tomorrow isn't the deadline for registration, just for the reduced rate I believe. You can register the day you get there. more problematic is getting a room at a hotel. You should see if you can get into our block at the Hotel Carlisle. See the "Speedsters meet Spyders" threads in the "Events" forum for details.
Lane AndersonLane AndersonMt. Pleasant, SC Supporting Member
We have an area set aside for us as we are usually the largest club there. Places are first come, first served, but we've never had a problem with too many cars.

The way it usually goes is that some folks arrive on Thursday - I'd say most, now - while a few others arrive on Friday. Several caravans arriving from different directions. Thursday night we eat at the Caddy Shack. Friday we have a cruise that usually includes lunch somewhere. Some of us go to the showfield if we have time before the Friday night dinner. After dinner many folks go to the go-kart tracks and try to kill one another. Much alcohol is often consumed after everyone gathers back at the hotel. Saturday is spent at the showfield, arriving for breakfast of the ever-tasty and artery-hardening egg sandwiches (aka egg sammiches or egg sammies) from the Carlisle High Marching Band booth. We have our door prize give-away before dinner. Dinner Saturday is at the Sunnyside. It includes a guest speaker (last year it was Bruce Meyers of Meyers Manx fame), as well as awards for longest drive, etc. Sunday, weather permitting, most will gather at the showfield for a little while before heading home. All in all, a great time.

Dang! I'm getting psyched now!
WOLFGANGWOLFGANG'89 CMC FWB, FL Supporting Member
Since you are powdering coating the shroud tin - I'd stick with that. I do like look of stainless steel fastening screws (and washers). They come rounded button head with hex (my favorite), raised with hex, normal bolt, normal screw. Makes the final time install look mechanical vs trying to clean and paint the old screws. If not powder coat - the hammer look Rust-o-leum finishes are cheap and durable. If you want to see sand scratches then Eastwood carries a clear coat for alloy wheels which would be durable. Have you look at the Eastwood site for ideas? They even have home powder coating kits - if you have extra oven.

Hope ya make Carlisle!
Gordon NicholsGordon NicholsMassachusetts 1993 CMC Supporting Member
Richard:

If you're really set on the brushed aluminum finish and want it clear or mildly colored, I would go for a clear chromate. There are several tones to choose from, from straight clear to bluish, to brownish to charcoal, and the grain will definitely show through

Reasonable pricing, reasonable durability (although not as tough as anodizing or powder coating).

Should be some places that do that (more-or-less) locally for you.
JogyverJogyver
Since the surface is roughed up you might be able to get away with a clear powder coating. The coater will need to chemically clean it prior to the coating application. Anodizing would be best choice . You might even concider the clear coat for aluminum wheels. East wood has some
http://search.eastwood.com/search?p=Q&lbc=eastwood&uid=470515703&ts=custom&w=aluminum%20wheels&af=cat2:clearcoats&isort=score&method=and&view=grid
The aluminum must not be able to flex or you could risk cracking the coating.

Rich , I told you it would make a great bootlegger car .

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FM Former Member
Rich, I have a lot of sheet aluminum in my car.
It will be at Carlisle, if you want to compare notes. The finished look of bead-rolled edges is pretty nice, and there's something about the technique which acts to reduce the drumskin effect once it's riveted in.
It never occurred to me to add color to the tins, once installed.

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I Inter911
Cad II plating might look good, depending on the rest of the colour scheme. I had some parts for my 912 done that way, looked neat against the semi-gloss black powder coating of the tin. Eastwood also has some paint systems that duplicate the look of Cad II plating, and others. Might work out. You can also anodize your own parts, look up "anodizing 101" or something like that and you'll find detailed instructions on how to do this. Even if you don't do it yourself its good info to have when considering.
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