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Yes, that was my thought. I love an engine that revs up and back fast and crisp, formula one style LOL.. My plan is to detail the engine to my taste once I have it instead of having the builder charge me for that. I like doing that part. I plan to pop the engine into the car and drive her a bit and then take the engine back out once winter really sets in to make her more attractive. I am really excited to feel how this engine stacks up in comparison to the 2276 Type 1 that I just sold and the 2.5 Suby engine in my Speedster. I love comparing the different driving experiences. The engine sure sounds nice and tight. The engine should have a nice balance of torque and top end. That was the goal.

The vision of the Puma doing wheel stands just popped into my mind... hmm most of the weight including the battery is in the rear. Take the spare out of the frunk run a 1/2 gal. of fuel. If I had sticky tires who knows. I remember a front cover of Popular Mechanics back in the mid 70's that showed a VW Thing doing a wheel stand as it left a red light. They had an article describing the way the Thing was made with the engine hanging out the back made it easy to pop the clutch and lift the front wheels with a stock Thing. I never forgot that.  My minds wonders from time to time.

Arrived home yesterday with the Monster Type 4 after picking it up at the engine builder's and started getting it ready to install. I installed the custom cut aluminum pcs. to surround the engine to seal the engine compartment off from recirculating the hot cooling air. The engine surround pcs. are sold by the type 4 store to work with the DTM fan system. All of the the surround pcs. came with this engine pre build up.  I replaced the crank pulley for appearance sake and will clean and paint or replace the valve covers once the engine is installed. I am concerned that I don't have enough over head clearance to fit the tall DTM fan shroud, It is going to be very close and just fit if it does. If it doesn't fit I have a fall back plan to use a version 2 DTM shroud that was made to have a lower profile. Stay tuned. PS I just returned from the auto parts store with FI style hose clamps to replace all the worm gear clamps.Type 4 2.8 L monster ready to install 2Type 4 2.8 L back

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  • Type 4  2.8 L  monster ready to install 2
  • Type 4  2.8 L back
Last edited by Jimmy V.

The engine was in almost as new condition ( the engine had only 4000 miles on it). The crank and rod journals were at new size and didn't need anything but a polish, the cam was in perfect shape, the pistons, rings and cylinders all perfect the cylinders still showed cross hatching. He did find a bent pushrod. If my memory serves I read the previous owner's (Chris Sutton) build blog and he mentioned that after having the engine assembled he cranked the engine over and it locked up. He tore it back down and found the cam was several teeth off from having the dots match up. The top of one piston had a little smile mark where a valve hit it. I assume he bent a push rod then. This may have caused the low compression symptom he was experiencing I don't know.  I sold off the crank, rods, heads, cam, lifters and a set of new 96mm P&C's. Which netted me more than the entire engine cost me. Then I spent a ton of money having the engine transformed into the 2.8L monster it is.

The battle is partially won. The monster 2.8 L type 4 is in the engine bay of the Puma and securely bolted to the new Rancho transaxle. I had to remove the already installed engine compartment sealing tin, crank and alternator pulleys and the header to get her to to finally to release and drop into the transaxle. Oh that magical feeling when the engine finally releases and slides into the trans. Taking a break today to recharge. The 11 hour one man battle did me in!

Type 4 2.8L before the battle. Type 4 2.8L battle partially over.

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  • Type 4 2.8L before the battle.
  • Type 4 2.8L battle partially over.

Ok, I went to close the hood and it hits the top of the DTM shroud just as I feared. So, I can now pull the engine back out and remove the DTM fan shroud buy a Version 2 DTM and install it along with a remote oil cooler fan assembly and thermostat. Or I can finish the engine install and run it with stand offs of some design that will hold the hood open a few inches, this way I can drive it some while the weather is still nice and pull the engine later this winter to install the V2 DTM. The damn lid is only a few inches from closing. I also had thought of cutting a hole in the hood to allow the top of the DTM to protrude and covering it with a small scoop or turbo bulge but then I would be cutting up the hood. The issue is patience and time. I really would like to drive the car to see how it runs this season so I may go with rigging something to hold the hood open a few inches, it actually doesn't look that bad. I am so close I can taste it.

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