Thanks for asking Michael, The trans gearing appears to be a very good match. The engine actually feels very similar to the Suby engine in my Speedster but I think it is going to have more power once I explore 1/2 throttle to full open driving, I haven't pushed the engine yet. The funny thing is that I am running the exact same A-1 muffler on both cars as well. I had little doubt the trans would be a good match. I really like the gear ratio choices they build this trans with. All the gears are a tad taller and 4th gear gives me 70 MPH at 3200 rpm. So yes to me it feels like a good match.
Very nice, Jimmy. Now you need a louvered grill to cover up that gap where the original VW exhaust exited.
Some people are never happy LOL ...All kidding aside, Yes that would be nice. This will be on the to do list when the car gets in the hands of a body shop. I will have them fill in the cut outs for the dual exit exhaust and fill and smooth some stress cracks. For now I am going to drive the car while I can to get the engine tuned just right. My next thing to do is replace the stock pushrod tubes with special longer pushrod tubes I just bought from European Motors . A couple of the stock ones are leaking because of being too short, they are right at the edge. The engine is almost an inch wider than stock. I had to search a bit but found that longer tubes are made just for monster type 4 engines. The longer tubes have an extra O ring groove. I just hope I can get the tubes switched out without taking the header back off. If I do I will probably just pull the engine and switch to a V2 DTM now.
You should be able to, Jimmy. The type4 tubes pull straight out through the heads. As long as you have good access to the rockers/pushrods, you're good. I hope.
@Jimmy V. posted:
Some people are never happy LOL ...
Like they say in the Ducati Monster forum: "there's no such thing as being 'finished' with your mods."
i could swear I saw a model of 911 that had a panel with vertical slots (like the oil cooler panel on the front of a Spyder) between the over riders below the license plate panel, but I can't find a picture of it. 911R maybe?
The longer pushrod tubes are now installed. They are about a 1/2" longer than stock and have a provision for an extra O ring on the side that goes into the engine block. That cured the little oil leakage I had on a couple of the factory type 4 tubes. I also had a leak on the passenger side outer axle seal that I had recently redone during the new Rancho transaxle install. I found that the inside spring on the rubber seal had come out of place. I had an extra seal kit and the leak is fixed. I have now driven the engine approx. 125 miles. It is really powerful even though I still am taking it very easy during the initial break in miles. The couple of times I have opened the throttle past 1/2 way resulted in an incredible amount of forward thrust and an extremely aggressive exhaust note. It moves through the gears scarily fast and a couple of times I have found myself north of 80 before I realize it. I am very happy with how cool the engine runs. A DTM fan that is setup correctly is an efficient system. I am looking forward to getting the Sync Link throttle cable system in and installed. The carbs are not perfectly in sync and getting them synced up should unleash more of the power this beast has. I have really enjoyed driving this. I took a couple of pics tonight around 6:30 pm which was the magic hour for perfect lighting to take pics.
There is another Puma for sale on Samba that looks to be a great deal. If I had space I would buy it, these little cars are a blast to drive. A Suby WRX engine would be fun in this Red Puma. Anyone want a good Puma?
@Jimmy V. posted:
Anyone want a good Puma?
This car seems like quite a deal. If only I had extra garage space...
"The later Pumas, like impact bumper 911s and post '73 Camaros and 'vettes, lost something very beautiful (slim chrome bumpers)."
Actually I think the "impact bumpers" are fakes added to make the car look more current. Unless they were connected to the frame, they won't help. I absolutely prefer the originals like on Jimmy's car.
I think I'd take a Puma either way. The later bumpers aren't nearly as bad as most everything from '74 on that were modified to accept the 5 mph bumpers.
I received the sync link throttle linkage kit arrived Monday. The parts are all professional looking and in marked bags with detailed install instructions. I have the kit about half installed, which is the arms that bolt to the carb bases and the aluminum pulleys that screw on to the throttle shafts. I turned the carb bases around to make more room and for a cleaner look. I will have the install completed tonight I hope. The end result will be smooth perfectly synchronized throttle operation. I really like the looks of this setup and will let you all know how it does.
There is a lot to report other than the election!
I finished the install of the synclink throttle cable system and I love it. The cross bar linkage I had didn't keep the carbs in sync. The sync link is a well made and designed system. The throttle pedal feels smooth and light and the car really drives nicer now.
I took the Puma on a ride down some twisting country roads today and it was a blast to drive, ripping down the straights and around the curves. This is a fun car!
Oh, and by the way I just bought the red 87 Puma GTI that is listed on Samba. The owner and I came to an agreeable price and the deal is done. I am now working on logistics to pick the car up. I guess I will now have his and her Puma's, it helps that my wife loves Puma's.
Bad news and a bad day yesterday. I took the Puma for a short drive and was planning on pulling the engine when I returned to get it ready to switch to the V2 DTM low profile fan shroud. I was accelerating away from a stop light and the new sync link throttle linkage stuck open. I have had this experience before with other cars and it is a little disconcerting but I know what to do. Soon as I felt the throttle stick open (the car was pulling hard in 2nd gear and heading to rear end the car in front of me) I hit the brake and clutch as I was reaching for the ignition key. It seemed like time went into slow motion except for the sound of my monster type 4 free revving up higher than I thought possible. It felt like it took an hour for my hand to leave the steering wheel and turn off the key. I heard a bang from the engine at almost the same moment I got the key turned to the off position. I coasted to a gas station and found the reason of the stuck cable and freed it up. I tried starting the car and it turned over but wouldn't start and a banging sound can be heard one time each revolution of the engine. A friendly Christian guy traveling from Cincinnati back to St. Louis gave me a tow home with a tow strap, he even helped me push the car up my driveway and onto the lift, what a nice thing to do. I pulled the engine today and stripped it to a long block. The engine can be turned by hand but once each revolution you can feel something hanging up a bit. Non of the valves are going up and down. I went to remove the pressure plate and found that the fly wheel is flopping around and all of the bolts that hold the flywheel to the crank are loose. So I am not sure what all is messed up but it doesn't appear to be good at all. The engine is being dropped off at the builder tonight at 7:30. I will post what he finds when he tears into the engine later this week. I wish I would have invested in a rev limiting rotor button.
Oh man, what a bummer. I hope it can be rebuilt without too much trouble. Might I offer a suggestion? Add an ignition system with a rev limiter, such as Pertronix III or MSD. It'll save your engine from grenading if you ever get into a similar situation. Loose flywheel bolts are an odd symptom though, hmm...