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@david stroud thanks for the complement, I guess!!!  lmfao...all the girls used to tell me I was smooooooth too!!!!

To answer your question and maybe I am mistaken here but a carberated engine (my 428 FE) vs. a modern engine with tuning and more adjustability is why I think the Suby option is better for me - better gas burn, less exhaust fumes.  My FE is tuned pretty well and it's not horrible but you definitely smell the exhaust "stink" and thats what my wife does not like.  My boxster has no stink and my Scout 800 has a lot of stink and she won't barely let me in the house after I am done working on it or driving it.  It's basically a tractor on wheels.

Last edited by Frank Zabski, Milford CT.

@MUSBJIM...we think alike sir...see attachment and I also hand this out...I don't go to many shows or if I do I walk around so I don't have to talk to people who make stupid comments like why doesn't your Cobra has side pipes, I thought the all did...and I can go on and on...I just laugh and honestly I don't give a rats a$$ what they think its built the way I want it.

Here is what I print out and hand out to the genuine people that have interest and I don't think are Dbags.

1966 Shelby 427 Cobra Street Car Replica

I have put this fact sheet together to educate anyone who is interested in the 427 Shelby Cobra Street car that I have replicated.  I choose to replicate CSX 3252 which is a British Racing Green 428 engined street car from the factory.  I get a ton of questions on this car and I am more then happy to talk to anyone at length but I figured it would be nice to create something someone could take home with them.  
My car was hand built in the USA by a company out of New Britain, CT called ERA (860.224.9445).  Great people, great car!
Most Frequently Asked Question:  Why doesn't your car have side pipes, I thought all Cobra's had side pipes?
Most people are only familiar with an S/C or Semi-Competion car that came with side pipes.  Only 31 actual S/C's were ever built of the 343 real Cobra's - big block that is, built in the sixties.  The S/C had the Ford 427 side oiler motor, traditional side pipes, roll bar, Hallibrand wheels, LeMans gas cap, no glove box, etc.
The Street car version of the Cobra is very different from the S/C.  Depending on when you bought the Street car you either received a 427 side oiler or a 428 Police Interceptor engine.  The first 200 cars and the last 50 cars all came with 427 side oilers. Towards the latter end of the run Shelby decided to install 428 engined Police Interceptor engines from CSX 3200 to CSX 3300 to save money and keep the production going.  
There were 260 Street cars made compared to the 31 S/C cars that you see the most.  Main differences are most of the street cars had Sunburst wheels, no side pipes, no roll bar, no hood scoup, etc. (See detailed listed below)
I've spent countless hours reading and researching about the Cobra street car variant.  I've enjoyed the research as much as I have enjoyed building the car.  I have taken every step to duplicate every nut, bolt, washer, etc. to the best of my financial means.
IMG_7229What makes the CSX 3200-3300 428 engined Street car different from the S/C car are as follows:

1.  Rear exiting exhaust (no side pipes).

2.  No roll bar.

3.  No hood scoop.

4.  Sunburst wheels. (Original ones on my car)  Earlier 427 engined Street cars had Halibrand wheels.

5.  Ford Blue colored overflow tank. (S/C cars were black)

6.  Glove box with horizontal knob.  (Original on my car)

7.  428 Police Interceptor engine.  (Original in my car)  Sub CSX 3200 and CSX 3300 and up had 427 engines.

8.  Bumpers front and rear.  Front bumper has license plate bracket. (Original on my car)

9.  Oval shaped gas cap.  (Original one on my car)

10.  Trico washer tank and spray nozzles next to the wiper blades.
 
11.  Round taillights and lower reflectors on the rear  (Lucas RER31 - Original ones on my car)  Sub CSX 3200 cars had rectangle tail lights.
 
12.  Street dash instrument layout, cigarette lighter, washer pump button and ash tray on the transmission tunnel.

13.  Door pockets and rear pocket behind seats for side curtains.
 
14.  Black fiberglass trunk with spare sunburst wheel.
 
15.  Engine compartment mounted battery. (Between passenger side footbox and wheel well)
 
Some History
 
There were 343 total coil spring Cobras (Big Block 427 & 428) cars produced.  2/3rd's  of the original Cobra's were street cars just like my car.  There were roughly 160 Street cars with 427 side oilers and roughly 100 Street cars with a 428 Police Interceptor.  428 engines were installed in these cars to save money by Shelby American most of the time without the new owners knowledge.  Believe it or not Shelby had a hard time selling the Cobra's he had left over in 1967. Original Cobra's sold in the $5,500 to $7,500 price range.  If you only knew then what you know now!   Most original, well documented 427 Cobra's sell well north of 750k, some up in the 1 to 1.5+ million dollar mark and above!
 
Over the years many of the street cars were what they call "S/C'd" or turned into the more popular side piped cars, roll bars were installed, dash boards were changed and the Sunburst wheels were changed to Hallibrands.  You can tell an "S/C'd" street car right away as some have retained the street gas cap.  Some other give aways are rear flat reflectors on the back,  washer nozzles by the wiper blades, glove box, ash tray on the trans tunnel, etc.  
 
There were four main big block Cobra variations.  They were as follows:
 
1.  Competion (Comp Car) w/427 side oiler engine - All out, high compression race car
 
2.  Semi-Competition (S/C) w/427 side oiler engine - This was a legal "race" car for the street
 
3.  Street car w/427 side oiler (dual quad) - Most street cars had a 427 engine in them
 
4.  Street car w/428 Police Interceptor (single quad) - Gentlemen's Cobra!
 
Actual 427 Cobra (Big Block 427 & 428) Production Numbers
 
1.  427 Street Cars - 260 (approximately 100 had 428 PI engines in them) - 75% !
 
2.  427 Prototype Competition Roadsters - 2
 
3.  427 Production Competition Roadsters - 19
 
4.  427 Semi-Competition Roadsters (S/C) - 31 - 9%!
 
5.  427 Daytona Super Coupe - 1
 
6.  427 Chassis only - 3
 
7.  289 COB/COX Cars - 27 (Delivered to or built in England)
 
8.  (427 Paramount Film Cars - 5, have been removed from the original Cobra totals)
 
Total Coil Spring/Big Clock Cobra's Produced - 343
 
I hope you enjoyed reading this.  If you have any other questions on the Cobra street car please email me @ fzabski@uptocode.net

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Last edited by Frank Zabski, Milford CT.
428Street, Milford CT. posted:

... I don't go to many shows or if I do I walk around so I don't have to talk to people who make stupid comments like why doesn't your Cobra has side pipes, I thought the all did...and I can go on and on...I just laugh and honestly I don't give a rats a$$ what they think its built the way I want it.

 Frank, you may be my new best friend.

I like to go to shows, but not with my car. I love my car because it's mine, built the way I wanted it. I live in a part of the world where there's not a lot of guys who know what a Speedster even was ("is that a Karmann Ghia?"), and almost no one who would understand lavishing the kind of time and money I have on it.

I couldn't care less. If a thing is cool to me, then it'll be cool to me regardless of the whims of fashion. I'm not super-interested in what anybody but my wife (who cuts me a long leash) thinks. My desires may change over the years, but I'm still pretty good with what I've got 13 years on now.

I hope you hang around, catch a ride in a car, and get what you want. You have all the ear-markings of somebody who will last.

Wolfgang and I went to a car show together in my Speedie about a year ago. We just wanted to look around at this all aircooled/VW annual show in Panama City. 

No intent to show the car, but a chance to put 80 miles on it driving the Emerald Coast on a nice Spring Day.

When we got there the parking options were to either put it in a dirt lot that was just remote enough from the show that it made me less than comfortable, or put it into the show.

Went with the latter. Parked it and walked away. Drew more attention than almost anything else there, lots of picture taking and questions when we were near it. No trophies, certificates, balloons, parades, or newspaper articles resulted.

Probably drew some critical stares, I didn't notice, don't care. 

I would never intentionally enter the car in anything because my attitude matches Stan's. 

Early on, I put it in one car show in my little home town in Illinois. It was the only non American, non muscle car in the place and was quickly derided by many. The show was open to all, but it appeared that all was actually a narrow category.

That experience made me re-evaluate what the heck I was doing, why I acquired the car, and what was important to me. I decided that I was the only judge, jury, or patron that mattered. My money, my decisions, my madness!

As most on the form know I started with the same intent as you. I wanted a replica that looked as close to an original as possible. However after owning an AC Beck for 4 summers, I figured out (for the most part) what I wanted. And what did I want... a reliable (as possible) speedster that paid tribute to an original. Granted I did go Suby power, wilwood brakes, hydraulic clutch, headed seats and a hidden bluetooth amp to name a few modern conveniences. What I have learned is there is not wrong way to do it and just enjoy the madness, which I really think is a sickness. Your mileage may vary. Top 2 pics are the original that I wanted to mirror. 1213IMG_4937IMG_5166

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Last edited by Joe Fortino

I’ve seen Joe’s car, and I’m pretty sure it is exactly what Frank is looking for.

I’d want IRS and a more modern front suspension, but Carey will be offering these things in a Speedster within the timeframe that Frank is looking at purchasing.  Even if he isn’t, I’m not sure how big a deal that would be for the stated purpose of “just cruising around”. 

Joe’s car is really, really nice. 

Some random questions about 356 speedsters

1.  Where is the best source for original color choices which I know might change per year but assume 57 which I believe is what most of these replica bodies are copying.

2.  I came across a number of cars for sale that had a "hump" or rear cover over the area that houses the top.  What are they called and do many people have them?  This seems to me to be a racing thing but I think it's cool looking.

3.  I've seen some pics of original cars with red rectangular either reflectors or light below the rear honeycombs I think they are called, what is the significance of those pieces and is it a year or model specific thing?

TIA.

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I call it "a hard 1/4 tonneau".  Used to be a mold floating around and a guy in TN but don't see new ones listed anymore.  Phil's old Audi 2L IM (for sale here) had one along wit the hardtop.  Guess the issue is where do you store it if you are out and need the top up.  

Most of the original colors are quite flat in appearance.  New mixes of paint have more depth and shine.

Just an added reflector that some like. 

Last edited by WOLFGANG
IMHO, the full tonneau is the best option. 99% of the time, my car has the top down and the tonneau closed.

I open only one side when driving by myself.

In cold weather, it holds the heat in (like siting in a hot tub in cold weather).

It keeps the rain out better than the top, keeps the dust and bird crap out of the interior, keeps the seats cool in summer, and hides stuff from prying eyes.

The hump thing would be a PITA.

>
>

All good responses, thank you all.  I really like the speedster humps on my Boxster, I think it makes the car compared to many of the Boxsters running around.  They are a PITA no doubt but they come with factory bags that pit perfectly in the trunk which makes rain emergencies doable.  It's something I like but might not work with the car.  It's on my list

 

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Nice topic.....

I have had the pleasure of seeing probably the most original looking replica that anyone will ever see and that car belongs to Manny in South Africa. The level of detail on his car is second to none and there has been nothing missed. Looking at the engine and you'd say that you were looking at an original 356 flat four. 

https://www.speedsterowners.co...pdate-september-2016

Detail costs time and detail costs money. 

Manny did say something once that has always stuck with me. "Choose a year speedster that you want to replicate and research it to death. Make all your purchases based on that particular year and also decide if you want EURO/ USA or any other regional specific type of car. This makes building the car a lot more focused and you're always wandering a lot less and not buying parts that will more than likely be replaced again as some point, because they were wrong."  Not an exact quote, because it was about 4-5 years ago....

I feel at the minimum, the following major mods should be done to the shell before any detailing can be done with trinkets and trimming. 

- Backseat graft - This is probably the biggest item, but will be the one that's noticed the most when looking in the car. 
- Headlight drop (this is mainly a UK, South African thing more than anything) - Our lights were lifted on the original shells to conform with local safety standards and it looks wrong. 95% of local speedsters just look wrong from the get go and no matter how much detail you add to the car, they will always look "off" because of this.

If you can get the shell to that stage, then you're off to a good start. After that I would look at the following: 

- Under-dash E brake. This is actually a very simple mod, by using truck parts and a cable. (write up on that coming soon)
- Correct steering column and period correct steering wheel, this includes key on the dash where it should be. 

If you want accurate........then accurate has some rules. 

Last edited by flatfourfan

Another question I have for your guys that have cars, do any of you have steel hoods, doors, trunks?  Some of the Cobra replica guys do this, especially the hood because when open has a very distinctive look vs. the fiberglass hood (underneath)...

I started talking some local metal fab classes and working with an english wheel, power hammer, flanger, etc. so thinking about maybe doing this to my car when I get it.  

I know it's time and money including matching paint and all but it can be done.

I like most have many hobbies, collections, obsessions and one of my collections years ago was buying trunks and hoods to strip, paint and hang in my office or garage.  This also fed another obsession of learning to do metal shaping and painting.  Figured I would start with some small stuff.  Come to find out I have what I think is an original NOS 356 rear engine hood/deck/lid? and the grill in excellent shape which might be able to be used on my car somewhere down the road.

Here's the thing. The standard speedster replica backseat area is commonly referred to as a jacuzzi back-end because it's smooth and lacks any sort of detail. The real speedsters have a beat seat area like the one that we have grafted (fitted in). The coupe and convertible D have the little seats as the red ones above and the pic that you've shown. The speedster is a stripped down version of this. 

Jacuzzi 

OEM

You can only see the “back seat” with the top up or completely removed. The top folds down into the area of the back seat. That’s why the profile is so smooth.

It’s a fine place to stow a couple of soft travel bags with the top up, store side curtains, detail spray, etc, but not much good for anything else.

Human beings cannot sit back there.

In fact, a dog would be incapable of riding back there.

>

I would like to make a comment about the IRS/swing axle debate.  I'm not going to argue that swing axle is better than IRS.  But everything has to be taken in context.  My current car is a 1400 lb mid engine car with front VW torsion bar suspension and rear swing axle.  My previous car was a 2000+ rear engine car with front Porsche 914 torsion bar suspension and rear IRS.  My current car would run circles around my previous car.  If I tried to drive my IM 356 D half as hard as I drive my spyder I'd be looking at where I've been real fast. Ask me how I know.  Just saying. 

And to tell you the truth there's not that many of us that would challenged our rear suspension enough to switch ends.  If I were buying an authentic looking 356A speedster or coupe I would get a pan based, front VW torsion bar, rear swing axle Vintage Motorcar.  The whole key is keeping it light.  Go outlaw.  No bumpers, AC, stereo etc.  Get the aluminum wide 5s.  Just my 2 cents.  But its really all about weight and balance.

2spyder

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All the expense to make these modifications, when done you're wallet has been drastically lightened and you still have, a reproduction speedster that will only fool a  general audience. IMHO do what appeals to your eyes and if it's not P' correct so be it. That's why I like doing flared and super wide body speedsters, I get to do what ever pops into my cob webbed brain and it works... Enjoy the ride ~

The great part about this car hobby in general is there are a lot of opinions and there are a lot of ways to spend your money   Although I see your point and respect it, 98% of my life is and has been practical and I've done mostly all the right things for my family so this stuff is kind of like being in the candy store, you don't need all the candy you grew up with by heck life is short so you buy what makes you happy or brings you back to those days when your biggest decision was were you getting the fu man chew gum or the razzles or the gold rush...lmao...There is nothing practical about any of these cars whether it's a wild build that kind of looks like a 356 or a very accurate re-creation of a 356.  It's your dream and your money.

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