My front end is too low & scraping on driveway entrances

HELP! Both my upper and lower adjustable torsion bar beams are maxed out to raise the front end and I'm still only slightly above 3 inches over the pavement. Is there an easy way to raise the front end short of pulling out all the torsion bars and filing more adjustment into the slots? My fiberglas nose is getting really thin! I need some good ideas fast.
John

No easy way.

One method is to cut the center of each tube, rotate it then re-weld.

The ends of the torsion strips are contained in the direct center of each tube and if you cut and rotate them, you will add height, or subtract height depending on the direction of rotation.

You probably have one tube that has been cut. You could grind off the adjuster, rotate the tube then re-weld the adjuster and pick up much needed clearance.

Another way is to remove the trailing arms and make sure torsion bars are intact. You may want to add stiffer bars to achieve the necessary heights.

Thanks for the sound advice Larry. I'm afraid I'm going to have to go with suggestion #1 as my present torsion springs are already much too stiff. Although since I'm not too crazy about cutting, rotating & re-welding the adjuster segments into the beams, what if I do away with the adjustment function altogether and just drill a hole down from the adjuster slot. I could then screw the 1/2" bolt into the drilled hole and engage the same internal collar that holds the torsion springs. I wouldn't be able to adjust anything, but at least I'd gain some height in the right direction.
What do you think?
John

John, you might want to check your spindles to make certain someone has not supplied you with "dropped" spindles. CB sells a lot of dropped spindle disk brake kits and I personally would not know the difference had I not had one each to compare....and no I don't have the dropped ones any more to show you the difference....but maybe someone else does? Just food for thought before you start cutting anything....

Jim, Thanks for the dropped front axle input, although since I got them from a salvage yard VW, don't think they could be new enough to be 'dropped'.
John

The dropped spindles I meant to say.

Finally finished raising my front end. Removed the 1/2" set screws from both upper & lower adjusters, took my Dremel tool grinder (cut-off disc) and removed about a 1/2" more from the end of each slot. The increased adjustment travel raised my front end about an inch. which was exactly what I was hoping for. No more scraping on driveways! Thank God I didn't have to cut out and re-weld the adjusters.

Good move John! I did cut and reweld mine (similar problem). It was OK for me at the time -- but if the car had been fully built it would have been a total pain.

Mark

Mark,
That was exactly why I needed to get creative. This took awhile to do (melted 1 Dremel tool in the process), but the alternative was unthinkable in terms of disassembly time. Plus - I'm not the welder you are. By the way, I took the coward's way out on my pivoting rear hatch. Wound up cutting away some of the rear hatch (under the license plate area) together with turning my rear hatch pivot holes into pivot 'slots'. Now to open my rear hatch (and clear my new exhaust system) I raise the hatch a few degrees to clear the firewall, then slide the cover backward a couple of inches. It's just enough to allow the end of the exhaust pipe to safely enter the area I cut away and allows the hatch to be opened up fully. The one problem it doesn't solve is if I want to allow the engine to continue to run, since the hot exhaust gasses would blow directly against the inside of my cover and probably bubble my exterior paint. I'm still happy though with my 90% solution. Thanks for all your help!
your RSK/RS60 brother,
John