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hi guys,sorry for my spelling,anyway,the other day i am looking at my engine,if everything is running smooth and i see my pullywheel wabbeling at low idle,more gas and it ran ok.,went to my mechanic,we tried to tieden the screw as much as possible,it is not wabbelin now but he said to check on it,and maybe we have to change the wheel,anybody had a problem like that ?thanks ,herbert hofer.
1957 JPS MotorSports(Speedster)
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hi guys,sorry for my spelling,anyway,the other day i am looking at my engine,if everything is running smooth and i see my pullywheel wabbeling at low idle,more gas and it ran ok.,went to my mechanic,we tried to tieden the screw as much as possible,it is not wabbelin now but he said to check on it,and maybe we have to change the wheel,anybody had a problem like that ?thanks ,herbert hofer.
Yeah, I thought that at first, too, but then....

The pulley was $40 itself, with a 50% markup by the mechanic, and then the guy had to take off the lower "bib" tinwork below and behind the pulley to get at it with a puller (20 mins when you haven't done this in a while, plus the screws are hard to get at), then remove the pulley and replace with the new one - another 20 mins, then replace the tinwork and pop on a new fan belt and adjust - another 30 mins. so, all in all, it pro'bly took him about 1-1/2 hours at, what?...$65/hour?

Kinda makes $150 look about right, doesn't it?

We just got Kathy's Honda back from the body shop for a new hood (hail damage, with about 150 dings in it). The guy (known him for decades) originally quoted us $582, which I though was reasonable in this day and age.

When we picked it up, he explained that parts and paint were less expensive than he thought, AND everything fell apart and went right back together easily, so the bill was only $542.

How often does THAT happen?????

gn
Here's a shortcut for the next time you don't want to pay the mechanic to use a Puller on your Pulley.
This works for Stock or Alum. Type 1 Crank pulleys.
Use a torch to warm up the hub of the pulley. I use the small propane bottle type used for Soldering plumbing.
Get everything out of the way for Fire and Safety concerns.
With the pulley bolt removed, warm the face of pulley hub with the torch. It doesn't have to be so hot that it glows but warm enough to expand the metal. With the pulley warmed up at the hub, it'll slide right off!
Greg B.
well guys,thats where i am now,i still have 2 months of warranty,so i wrote mr. john steele from jps,: hello mr.john steele,mr.bruce[ my mechanic] put a new pulley on and told me that he send you pictures from the crankshaft keyway and the old pulley,he thinks who ever put the engine together did not tighten the nut,also he told me to tell you if his wheel comes lose that i would need a new engine,hope i dont need that, but in case i have problem i wonder how you could help me and resolve the warrantysituation with your suppleyer of stockengines,i will send you the old pulleywheel by mail,--------i now wait for a response from mr. steele and my speedsterfriends,thanks,a very worried herbert hofer.
I'll bet that, since the engine build wasn't that long ago, and the pulley was wobbling anyway, that a puller wasn't needed. I usually just grab a couple of big screwdrivers and even the old stock pulleys pop off with a splash of PB Blaster. Regardless, that price sounds almost cheap, time always costs money and a mark up for the pulley is expected.
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