My Speedster is done and ready to ship

Very nice! Congratulations.

Congrats for sure.

Beautiful color combination. Congrats!

Lots of good choices there

Ivory and red does look good!  Refresh my memory- what engine did you go with?

Thanks!  I went with the 2332 / 3.44

Stunning.  Not usually a big fan of white walls on Speedsters, but this combo really pops.  Lots of heads will turn -- you'll see.

PS I run a 2332 also.  Be sure the seat belt is fastened.  Securely.

@wardog (Warren)

Very cool specs on that build!

Now the tortuous wait for it to be delivered to your driveway.

I love the whitewall tires !   I'm too chicken to put them on my own.............Bruce

Thanks. I know whitewalls aren’t for everyone and I don’t think I would have done them on any other color, but I love how they look on ivory.

@wardog (Warren) very nice. Let the madness begin 👍

@aircooled posted:

I love the whitewall tires !   I'm too chicken to put them on my own.............Bruce

Please, please, please don't do that to your Spyder. That is a faux pas of gargantuan proportions.

But yes, that Speedster looks awesome like that.

Very cool, Wardog, congrats! The white and red interior looks great. White walls are a nice touch.

@wardog (Warren)wardog is the video on the VMC facebook page of a test drive in your new speedster?

NJ-SpeedsterGuy, yes, they also just put photos on their Facebook / Instagram pages.  

Danny.............No way......Would I put whitewalls on my Spyder ! But I would have on my Red Speedster ! If I had the guts !  I would have had the guts to put them on my Speedster if it was that Ivory/Creme colored paint like "wardog" has !  I think it's just a perfect combination !

Well done "Wardog" !!.....................Bruce

Love the color combo too; I am also not too fond of whitewalls on these cars but then again; it is your car and do what makes you happy! With that big motor you might need a mid mount for your transaxle or you'll be breaking transaxle nosecone mounts fairly regularly, depending on your driving habits.

@wardog (Warren), did the Speedster finally make it home safe?  Would love to see some driving and walk around videos is possible.

@Impala posted:

With that big motor you might need a mid mount for your transaxle or you'll be breaking transaxle nosecone mounts fairly regularly, depending on your driving habits.

Greg puts a transmission mid-mount in all his cars and he does a kafer bar like arrangement tying the frame horns to the body subframe. One of the reasons I like his stuff.

That is awesome!

Thanks everyone. It arrived in 4 days from CA to LA. Not bad and earlier than expected.  

I got the title on Tuesday and showed up at the Office of Motor Vehicles early on Wednesday  to be first in line. I was armed with the invoice, pictures of the car, pictures of the VIN, the title, and proof of insurance. I was hoping I’d be good to go. Denied. They need a signed bill of sale with original signatures. So Greg and Anna immediately sent that and I should get it tomorrow. UPS usually arrives around 1pm so I took the day off tomorrow to go to the OMV if the timing works out. With any luck I’ll be walking out with plates tomorrow after noon and will be able to drive it this weekend. Not holding my breath though. Wouldn’t surprise me if they come up some more B.S. and it takes a few more trips.

I’ve driven it around the neighborhood a few times but that’s it.

Rule of thumb no two MV agents think alike when in doubt go to the next nearest DMV.. Never offer any additional documents then they ask for as that sometimes becomes your enemy. Always keep a smile on the ole' puss and ask... "I was hoping you... might be able to help me" .

If it makes you feel better, Massachusetts (your totally opposite "sister-state" way to the Northeast) also requires an original, signed bill of sale, too, regardless of a new sale or a used car sale.

Just to add to Alan's comments (all good)  - Be prepared with ALL of the documentation you can possibly find to support what you're trying to do, but ONLY give them what they ask for unless it's all going south and you think that additional info will help your cause.

It's also OK to simply say, "I don't think this is working so I'm going home to re-think it," and get up and walk out.  They won't really care, trust me - You're just one of dozens they see every day.  

Then go to a different DMV office as Alan recommended and try again there - Different DMV people might (probably) understand things totally differently.  And don't be afraid to ask for help from their supervisor - Sometimes that can make a big difference. too.

I've also found, here in Massachusetts, that visiting the head office of the DMV has ALWAYS been easier than dealing with a satellite office, but that might not be an option for most of you in bigger states.

So, of course the 1 time I really needed UPS to deliver at the time they always have before (1pm), they deliver at 7pm. Try again next week.

@wardog (Warren) posted:

So, of course the 1 time I really needed UPS to deliver at the time they always have before (1pm), they deliver at 7pm. Try again next week.

BUMMER! Well, next week then.

@wardog (Warren) any luck getting your speedster registered and on the road?

Yes, finally got a license plate today! Took her out for about 40 miles around my small town, the freeway, and some back roads. Received at least a dozen waves, a honk, and several nods of approval. Filled her up with gas and got two complements at the gas station.

Getting used to the handling. She tracks straight and true on good roads. Cruised quite a bit at 70mph and got her up to 80mph. I think that’s about as fast as I’ll take it.  Straights are fine at those speeds but even gentle turns at 50-60 were a little unsettling, or maybe I just need to learn the car more. I need to check tire pressures and maybe try some different pressures. On the freeway in the right lane I traveled over some bad rutted and grooved pavement and at 70 that was a little spooky. Constant corrections and then corrections to the corrections. But, I didn’t buy this to really be used as a sports car. I have an Alfa 4C for that. This is for leisurely cruising and traveling back in time.

Glad I got the 2332 but I think the 1915 would have been ok.  Acceleration feels strong, especially when you hit 2nd and 3rd. 70 mph is about 3k rpm in 4th and the engine seems happy anywhere between 2k and 5k.

Overall, I’m thrilled. It is so beautiful I can just stare at it. Being able to drive it around is icing on the cake.

That is great! I bought mine 17 years ago and I still drool over it; I can just sit and stare at its beautiful curves for hours. Well done! You’re in for a lot of enjoyment!

Yeah. I’ve had my Spyder for almost 10 years now and almost every time I’m around it, I spend a minute or two just admiring it.

Congratulations, Warren. Glad you are on the road!

Great news!  Glad to hear that she’s officially registered and that you’re starting to drive and enjoy your speedster. If you have the time could you make a short video on your next trip of the 2332 and 3.44 running through the gears. Would love to see and hear how she performs. Cheers!

Well, I now have over 400 miles on the Speedster. I really love it.

I found out how to solve the problem of drought. Buy a convertible. It’s been raining or threatening to rain every day except one since I got my license plate. I chuckled a bit to myself when I learned that you have time the shut off of the wipers yourself.

It’s super fun to drive except 75 mph or so on the freeway can be a bit of a chore. Wind buffeting and tire grooves can make it a bit unsettling with continual corrections which seem make it yaw a bit side to side. I saw another thread regarding sway bars and I may need to do a little research on that. Still need to also play with different tire pressures.

I’ve been to a couple car shows / meets. The car gets lots of positive attention. Everyone seems to love this car. I’ve run into many people at gas stations and the grocery store (who may not be “car people”) who like it but don’t even know what it is. Meaning they’ve never heard of or seen a Speedster.

Now that I’ve driven it for a bit I’m really glad I got the 2332. I wouldn’t want any less power. The first 3 gears seem pretty low and it gets off the line easily.

No issues to report other than finding the wing nuts on the air cleaners kept working their way off. I bought some regular nuts with built in nylon collars that should resist coming loose from vibration.

NJ Speedster guy, sorry but I’m not able to do videos at the moment.

If you don’t have a camber compensator (if your car is a swingaxle transaxle) install one. Also make sure you have at least a stock anti sway bar on the front beam. Set up your tire pressures as recommended here. Also these cars sometimes need caster shims behind the front beam to handle well at higher speeds.

Caster shims, slight toe-in on front AND rear, proper tire pressure and ride height.

My car is not twitchy, doesn't need to be chased. It has no camber compensator in back and didn't used to have a front anti-sway bar. It wasn't twitchy then either.

Start with at least one set of caster shims and a good alignment.

The first summer I had my Spyder on the road I called it “The Rainmaker.” I could leave for a drive under a cloudless sky and it would be raining before I got home.

I use these wing nuts with nylon inserts on my air cleaners.

That's cool, Dave. I've never seen wingnuts with nylocks in them. I believe the thread of 99% of the air cleaners out there is #10-24.

I drilled the wings of my wingnuts and use a spring between them, haven't lost one yet.

I have noticed that if your carbs are not in perfect synch, the tendency will be for things to vibrate off...

@DannyP posted:

That's cool, Dave. I've never seen wingnuts with nylocks in them. I believe the thread of 99% of the air cleaners out there is #10-24.

I drilled the wings of my wingnuts and use a spring between them, haven't lost one yet.

I have noticed that if your carbs are not in perfect synch, the tendency will be for things to vibrate off...

Depending upon how "hard" you're driving, they might vibrate off YOU, too.

@DannyP posted:

That's cool, Dave. I've never seen wingnuts with nylocks in them. I believe the thread of 99% of the air cleaners out there is #10-24.

I drilled the wings of my wingnuts and use a spring between them, haven't lost one yet.

I have noticed that if your carbs are not in perfect synch, the tendency will be for things to vibrate off...

You have to get the ones with the brown nylon. The clear will melt. But a pack of 10 is like $7.95.
And yes, they’re #10-24.

And there’s a spot there to drill them out. Springs are a good idea. I was going to safety wire mine. (But I’ve never had one vibrate off.  Or fall in a carb, knock on wood.  I use spring washers underneath them. I’ve lost two stepping on my air cleaner lid, though!)

@DannyP posted:

I drilled the wings of my wingnuts and use a spring between them, haven't lost one yet.

That's just cool.

Thanks. I actually stole the idea from LennyC. He had holes drilled in his wingnuts, but used a small ty-wrap between the nuts. I went with springs to make it re-usable when I had carbs. Not much need to take the air cleaners off anymore...

Looks amazing. Which motor did you go with?

Hello, checking in with 1500 miles on the odometer now. Love this thing. Been to about 6 car shows and cars and coffee meet ups. Still amazed how many people, even car people, have no idea what it is. At the last show 3 different people thought it was a Karmann Ghia. But, both those in the know and the others love it. Just like with my other car I’ve never seen one around here in the 13 years I’ve lived in this area. I guess I like being the odd one out.

It seems very happy to cruise at 80 at around 3200/3300 rpm.

I’ve had no issues (knock on wood). I found a local mechanic who has been working on air cooled VW’s for 50 years. He did my oil change and valve adjustment at 500 miles. He said I had a little leak from the rear main seal but nothing to worry about. He said that was common especially on the larger engines.

Super glad I added the radio. I downloaded a bunch of hits from 1957 and it really completes the time machine experience.

Kirk, didn’t see your post until now. It’s the 2332.

@wardog (Warren) posted:

At the last show 3 different people thought it was a Karmann Ghia.

I was out prepping my Spyder to go for a drive on Friday and a fellow storage unit renter, who said he owned a Karman Ghia, asked me if my car was a Speedster. SMH

I can understand an average joe being ignorant, but a VW owner?

Love the color combo! I actually just placed my order for ivory with cardinal interior with VMC today.

@Dragtek posted:

Love the color combo! I actually just placed my order for ivory with cardinal interior with VMC today.

Congratulations. Consider starting a new thread and posting all of the specifics so we can take the journey with you.

@Robert M posted:

Congratulations. Consider starting a new thread and posting all of the specifics so we can take the journey with you.

Thank you. Will do, just gotta deal with that 12-18 month lead time now. ☹️

Congrats Dragtek. I love the color combo. It really pops. I’m just loving this car. Over 2000 miles now on the odo. Really glad I got the 2332. This is my only manual trans car at the moment and it is so satisfying to row through the gears. Highly recommend the radio and heated seats options.

Although I bought the car for me and don’t really care what others think it is nice that the attention the car gets is always positive. I’ve had two more people ask if it was a Karmann Ghia 😀.

12-18 months…wow, guess I’m not surprised. It will be worth the wait.

^ thank you. After reading your experience I’m for sure glad I’m going with the 2332.

@Dragtek posted:

Thank you. Will do, just gotta deal with that 12-18 month lead time now. ☹️

I wish I were only waiting 12-18 months…put an order in at Beck a few months back, 24 months 😬. Hopefully it’ll be sooner, but will understand if Carey and crew use every bit of lead time.
I have plenty to keep me busy, just moved into a new house and still have to build a shop along with the millions of odd projects that go with a new place.
I’m hoping to make a vacation trip up to Breman next summer, may even try to stop and meet Stan since I’ll be in his neighborhood visiting cousins, that is if he’s willing.

@SteveinAZ posted:

I wish I were only waiting 12-18 months…put an order in at Beck a few months back, 24 months 😬. Hopefully it’ll be sooner, but will understand if Carey and crew use every bit of lead time.
I have plenty to keep me busy, just moved into a new house and still have to build a shop along with the millions of odd projects that go with a new place.
I’m hoping to make a vacation trip up to Breman next summer, may even try to stop and meet Stan since I’ll be in his neighborhood visiting cousins, that is if he’s willing.

I too am ok with the lead time. It gives me time to smooth things over with the wife 😂. I grew up building Hondas, but always loved the timelessness of the speedster. I actually sold a Lexus RCF, snd my Tacoma recently and told the wifey that I’d need to replace it with a convertible again. I had a few s2000’s in the past and thought about building another one, but knew I’d still wish I had gotten the Speedster.

S2000s are a LOT of fun to drive, but they don't have the look of a Speedster. That is timeless, indeed.

Beautiful speedster. Any more pics?

How is the 3.44 vs the 3.88 “freeway flyer “ ?

@beemerb0y posted:

Beautiful speedster. Any more pics?

How is the 3.44 vs the 3.88 “freeway flyer “ ?

Thanks! I should have some more pictures to post next week.

I have about 2200 miles on her now. Haven’t been driving as much due to cold but got out yesterday for a bit. Had a couple more people say “beautiful car, what is it?” 😀

Never driven a 3.88 but I think for this engine the 3.44 is great.

@wardog (Warren) posted:

Thanks! I should have some more pictures to post next week.

I have about 2200 miles on her now. Haven’t been driving as much due to cold but got out yesterday for a bit. Had a couple more people say “beautiful car, what is it?” 😀

Never driven a 3.88 but I think for this engine the 3.44 is great.

What speeds have you taken it up to?

when in 4th, what RPM is the tach reading when you are doing, say, 65mph?

@beemerb0y posted:

What speeds have you taken it up to?

when in 4th, what RPM is the tach reading when you are doing, say, 65mph?

It’ll cruise all day long at 80 mph, about 3200/3300 rpm. The 2332 has good torque. I think 90 is as high as I’ve been and I have no need for any more than that in this car although it has quite a bit more to give. First and second are pretty low gears. Third has a good long pull and I generally shift to 4th at about 50. If I recall, 70 is about 3000. Engine seems happy from 2k to 5k.

I stopped by VMC the other day to check on my Speedster, it's almost finished.

Greg said he is only offering the 2332cc motor now. With the Kadron carbs on the motor it is making 145-150hp.

@Robert M, any idea who is building Greg’s motors?

@Robert M posted:

I stopped by VMC the other day to check on my Speedster, it's almost finished.

Greg said he is only offering the 2332cc motor now. With the Kadron carbs on the motor it is making 145-150hp.

yes they only offer the 2332cc motor now (about 145hp)

before January 2022, the base price for the Speedster was $43,900 with a 1915cc engine (about 110hp) and 4:12 with 0:82 4th gear.. Optional upgrade to the 2332cc engine was $2,500 and optional 3:44 trans for $1,000 (or a 3:88 trans for $2000)

now the base price is $48,900, but comes standard with the 2332cc engine and 3:44 ring and pinion trans (I don't think they have the option for a 3:88 anymore, unless you get the Subaru engine, but don't quote me on that)

@LI-Rick posted:

@Robert M, any idea who is building Greg’s motors?

Pat Downs is building Greg's motors.

@beemerb0y posted:

How is the 3.44 vs the 3.88 “freeway flyer “ ?

The 3.88 will have a little better acceleration from a stand still, so it will be a wee bit 'zippier' around town.  If they're geared the same for highway (3.88 with .89 4th vs 3.44/.93- they have almost identical final drive numbers) and the quicker acceleration in the lower gears isn't a concern (and to be honest, with the torque of a 2332 if probably doesn't matter) then the slightly closer 3rd-4th spacing with the .93 will be a little bit more fun to drive should you ever find yourself 'canyon carving'.

You've mentioned a 3.88 'freeway flier', which means different things to different people (I really dislike the term for exactly that reason!).  If you're thinking a 3.88 r&p with a longer than stock .82 4th gear- don't do it.  It creates a 4-5mph 'hole' where you'll feel like the engine is revving too high while the rpm's in 4th will be too low for the engine to properly cool itself under sustained full power (it may overheat) going up long hills.  Even a bigger type 1 engine run like this will have a shorter life span.  Al

Honestly, calling a transmission a 3.44 or a 3.88 is not really saying anything.

When discussing gearing, 1st through 4th is important, the final drive is important, and the tire size is important. Without all the variables being noted, just denoting the final drive is meaningless.

Most transmissions use a stock 1-2 and swap 3rd and 4th and the differential. Much cheaper to build this way, custom 3-4 costs about $800 in gears. A custom 1-2 is more like $1300. Do all 4 custom and you're north of $2500 with synchros, shift hubs, and bearings. Then add the ring and pinion, which can range from $300 to $1500 depending on source. If you really go crazy money-wise, get a LSD or a Torsen geared-type differential.

I'm building(whenever all the parts actually arrive!) a 3.44 final drive with close ratio gearing: 3.44 1st, 1.93 second, 1.30 3rd and 1.0 4th. Tire is 24.2 inches tall.

Note that my 4th is pretty darn close to the stock VW 0.89 4th with the VW 3.88 final drive. The transmission is expensive to build(all 4 gears are custom) but is probably as good as a 4 speed can be.

Before the "Way of the 5" folks chime in, I have a Spyder(mid-engine and swing-axle) so yeah, NO 5 speed! It is what it is, I'm not rebuilding the entire rear end just get another gear. There's no need, I don't use the car for interstate cruising. Just back road and mountain twisty work.

That's gonna be a bitchin' setup.

Thanks, Ed.

Danny is right, to fully discuss a transaxle/gear setup you do need to know all of the gearing.  When writing my answer above, since nothing else was discussed, I didn't get into any other gearing choices because so many Speedster gearboxes use stock 1st through 4th gears.  Unless you're building a trans for a special purpose (as Danny is) or a 5 speed, a r&p change (and maybe 4th gear if it will have particularly long legs) will accomplish what 90 or 95% of what people want.

And yes, I know Danny, your mind is closed to the Way of the 5; a shame, 'cause you really could have it all...

.

BTW, with the demise of the online gearing calculator a lot of us used to use, I've discovered this one. It doesn't have quite the same graphing the old one did, but can be more useful in other ways.

.

@ALB posted:

The 3.88 will have a little better acceleration from a stand still, so it will be a wee bit 'zippier' around town.  If they're geared the same for highway (3.88 with .89 4th vs 3.44/.93- they have almost identical final drive numbers) and the quicker acceleration in the lower gears isn't a concern (and to be honest, with the torque of a 2332 if probably doesn't matter) then the slightly closer 3rd-4th spacing with the .93 will be a little bit more fun to drive should you ever find yourself 'canyon carving'.

You've mentioned a 3.88 'freeway flier', which means different things to different people (I really dislike the term for exactly that reason!).  If you're thinking a 3.88 r&p with a longer than stock .82 4th gear- don't do it.  It creates a 4-5mph 'hole' where you'll feel like the engine is revving too high while the rpm's in 4th will be too low for the engine to properly cool itself under sustained full power (it may overheat) going up long hills.  Even a bigger type 1 engine run like this will have a shorter life span.  Al

The way Vintage Motorcars defines their trans options is as follow:

3.88 freeway flyer transmission 3:10 1:93 1:21 0:82

4:12 with 0:82 4th gear transmission

3.44 ring & pinion transmission

I don’t see any other info listed in their literature, but their website states “This upgrade provides you with a taller 1st and taller 2nd gear. With a final 3:88 ratio ring and pinion you achieve the “freeway flyer”, meaning you can cruise at higher speeds on the highway at lower RPMs. This transmission is perfect paired up with the 2332cc engine upgrade.”

@ALB posted:

And yes, I know Danny, your mind is closed to the Way of the 5; a shame, 'cause you really could have it all...

My mind isn't closed, I don't want to completely re-engineer the entire rear end just for another gear that I won't use on the highway.

I've decided that cars are like Hawkeye's arrows: each one has it's own unique purpose.

Thanks, Mitch, that calculator is neat.

Thanks Beemerboy, that info helps a lot. I'm assuming the 3.44 from Vintage has stock ratios then, which is what I have in the car right now.

BTW, that 3.88 with custom 1-2, and Bus 3-4 is not a cheap transmission to build. The Bus 3-4 ratios are available aftermarket, which makes this possible. There are only so many transmissions out there.

A 3.44 transmission  gets spoken about here quite frequently, but is not really an option currently. Unless you are sitting on a 3.44 r&p, they haven’t been available for a long while now.  None of the transmission builders has one in stock, at least that I could find. Weddle says they are having them made, but no expected date, and $1000 was the last price.

For this reason, I decided to go ahead with a 3.88.  Like Danny, I’m waiting on Weddle to get the idler gears for a 3.10-1.93 main shaft back in stock.  I have all the gears for a 3.10  1.93  1.32  .93 box, with a 3.88 r&p, except the idlers. This is going into a Spyder as well.

Now if I can get the foundry to cast the TF-1 cases they have been promising for over a year, and Greg to start on my IRS Spyder, I’ll have it made in the shade!   I do have a pretty impressive pile of parts building up in my basement.

Exactly Rick. I happened to get one of the last 3.44s(if not THE last) from Anthony who posts here from time to time. I think it was almost two years ago.

I'm waiting for backordered stuff from Weddle: 1.93 2nd idler, plus bearings, a slider hub and slider, and some shims for the R&P to get back in stock. The mainshaft is in stock, but I really don't want to pay an extra shipping charge. I try really hard not to use Chinese bearings also. I have two transmissions to take apart, and I'm hoping those bearings are in good shape because we all know the old OE bearings are the best way.

I have a new Super-diff, side gears etc. plus all the other gears: 1st idler, 3-4 gears and idlers and SOME of the bearings. The Weddle racing gears and synchro hubs are splined so no more Tig welding of the 3-4 gears is needed.

@DannyP, by any chance is the slider you need part # 091311315? Weddle told me they wouldn’t be available until September.  I found a nos one on eBay, in Egypt.

I think I might need the slider hub 8AB-309HD, not the slider. This part is in stock, and needed with the hybrid main shaft. Or maybe not, I think stock might be OK because the gear ratios I'm using don't necessitate the swap.

I do have the slider on backorder though. September? WOW!

I'll have two or three to choose from, I've got one early 60s swing box and two late DSC(double side cover) IRS boxes.

@Sacto Mitch  Great stuff..!!

This is a pict of my original tranny and my replacement tranny when they forgot to give me the 3.91 and instead I have a 4.12 R&P ...  

Shows at 3000 rpm there is a 4-5mph difference. Not enough to bother but a good exercise to compare the trannies where you want them at crusing speed (5 speed)

Thanks for posting the GEAR Calculator /  Ratio Tranny Calculator.

Ray

I used the calculator for my Berg-5 shifting at 5000 rpm.

Yeah, I use 6000. But 3000 is also good to show cruising speeds.

That was my point and I compared different r&P

Completely unrelated to my Speedster in the works, but got me thinking about the tranny in my buggy...and what Danny noted as the whole drive package, including tires, has to be considered.

I had to go look up the ratios as all I could recall was a 3.88 R&P.  Ran it through the calculator with a 5,500 shift points, 3.08 1st=48mph, 2.20 2nd=67, 1.65 3rd=89, 1.28 4th=115.  The only time I've seen 115 on the GPS I recall the tach at 5,800, most likely tire slipage as that was on a graded road.  If you're wondering how a 1.28 4th gets you 115, plug in 35" tires....  Hindsight is 20/20, I wish I would have gone with a 5 speed, it was actually cheaper than the 4 speed, and would have given me a taller final.

That is an unusual gear set.

@SteveinAZ posted:

Completely unrelated to my Speedster in the works, but got me thinking about the tranny in my buggy...and what Danny noted as the whole drive package, including tires, has to be considered.

I had to go look up the ratios as all I could recall was a 3.88 R&P.  Ran it through the calculator with a 5,500 shift points, 3.08 1st=48mph, 2.20 2nd=67, 1.65 3rd=89, 1.28 4th=115.  The only time I've seen 115 on the GPS I recall the tach at 5,800, most likely tire slipage as that was on a graded road.  If you're wondering how a 1.28 4th gets you 115, plug in 35" tires....  Hindsight is 20/20, I wish I would have gone with a 5 speed, it was actually cheaper than the 4 speed, and would have given me a taller final.

Yes, tire diameter is a part of the gear ratio equation- and for an offroad buggy with 35" tires, those are tall gears!  What kind of power is behind them?

@ALB posted:

Yes, tire diameter is a part of the gear ratio equation- and for an offroad buggy with 35" tires, those are tall gears!  What kind of power is behind them?

6.0L Chevy, just shy of 400hp.

@DannyP posted:

Exactly Rick. I happened to get one of the last 3.44s(if not THE last) from Anthony who posts here from time to time. I think it was almost two years ago.

I’ve heard several people say how hard it is to find 3.44s. How is it that Greg has built numerous cars with 3.44s (including mine) and now only offers a 3.44 on his new builds? Does he have a secret stash of them?

@TwinCitiesSpeedster posted:

I’ve heard several people say how hard it is to find 3.44s. How is it that Greg has built numerous cars with 3.44s (including mine) and now only offers a 3.44 on his new builds? Does he have a secret stash of them?

That’s a good question. Who builds Greg’s transmissions?

@TwinCitiesSpeedster posted:

I’ve heard several people say how hard it is to find 3.44s. How is it that Greg has built numerous cars with 3.44s (including mine) and now only offers a 3.44 on his new builds? Does he have a secret stash of them?

@LI-Rick posted:

That’s a good question. Who builds Greg’s transmissions?

If Greg's able to offer 3.44 r&p's then he (or his trans guy) had the foresight to put away a stash of them somewhere.  There haven't been any around for a while.