Need 1600cc engine ,very basic..I am JINXED.🤑

Chico Performance in Arcadia Ca. builds and ships engines all over the place. He has basic engines like you want.  I live in Arcadia and can check up on your build process if you choose him. I usually stop by on Thursdays to see what's happening thats new and interesting. Could even take a few photo's for you since you're a SOC member.

Sorry to hear about loosing your engine. That's a pretty devastating blow to any of us ! Especially if you're just cruising and not abusing !     Sincerely...........Bruce

While I've heard of Mid-America Motorworks, I haven't yet heard of anyone on here buying a turn-key engine from them.  Not that they haven't, just nothing heard.

Just looked at their website and what they're offering for displacement versus their pricing seems to be in the ballpark.  Single-port, single carb engines around $4500 - $5K and larger displacement engines in the $5K - $6K range is pretty competitive with the other builders.

We all know that CB Performance (Pat Downs) and Chico Performance both build very good engines and a few of us have found local builders who do a good job, too.  

Big decision ahead of you.  Sorry I can't offer more help...

Competition Engineering is in Phoenix and builds great engines.

You really need to look into why you’re oil line came off in the first place as well. Did you over rev a cold engine while the oil was cold and thick? If so it’ll over pressurize your oil system and blow things like external oil filters and hoses.

I'm 99% sure the Mid-America Motorworks engines are GEX. If so, steer clear.

@Stan Galat posted:

I'm 99% sure the Mid-America Motorworks engines are GEX. If so, steer clear.

GEX? I'm not familiar with that acronym. Please elaborate.

@Eric (McGruff) posted:

GEX? I'm not familiar with that acronym. Please elaborate.

GEX is a VW engine and transaxle remanufacturer used by a lot of auto-parts stores.

You can read the reviews on TheSamba. A sample of the (many, many, many) threads is here.

heard GEX is bad news, just sayin..

RUN!!!!! if GEX

14 Gex International Engine Reviews and Complaints @ Pissed Consumer

Ripoff Report | GEX International complaints, reviews, scams, lawsuits and frauds reported, 14 results

1.5 stars for Mid-America

Mid America Motorworks - 14 Photos & 20 Reviews - Auto Parts & Supplies - 2900 N 3rd St, Effingham, IL - Phone Number - Yelp

Do you have time and desire to tear motor down?  Or maybe find local VW club and see if they have local recommendation or guy sidelined with the Covid shutdown that might do it.  You can probably reuse most of the parts.  Might need a line bore of case, a new crank and bearings, rod bearing and rings.

CB Performance is a great resource, but I think Pat's booked out for many, many months.

VintageVolks in Tacoma, Washington would be a good bet, but I'm not sure how quickly they'd be able to get you something.

Honestly, if you are in AZ, Competition Engineering in Phoenix is probably your best bet. Freight from any out of town place is going to be at least $400.

contact Mustie1 on uTube?

Marshall

I didn't think about the freight cost. The cheapest way is to have it shipped to a freight terminal near you and you go pick it up at that terminal. this way you avoid the extra cost to get door to door service, lift gate service and what ever else the shipper can tag on. Ask about what sort of crate (if any) will be used too. Some only use a plastic bag and strap the engine to a pallet while others bag it, put it in a complete crate and screw it down to a pallet. This helps with parts theft, and shipping damage which will only cost more time and money.................Bruce

Bugformance in Sacramento CA

@JPC Care to comment on the advice you're getting? You posted a question and haven't interacted with anyone?

Thanks to all. Competitive Engineering, Dan Lawson, The owner is looking around for me in California and making calls because I’m going to take the car back to him. I have heard that some of the mechanics that use these hoses on these clamps that do not need actual clamps put a clamp on anyways just to be on the safe side. If there was a clamp there it would not have come off. What I have is what I call a shark bite in plumbing. And I swear there is no clamp. And yes it happened in am And that’s the worst time

Depending on how your engine has been "full flowed", the engine's oil pump puts full pressure into the output side when started up.  If the outside temperature is under 30F/0C and the oil is very thick because of the cold, that oil pressure could be as high as 300 psi - enough to either distort your oil filter or detonate it.  

Some outfits (Gene Berg comes to mind) offer a full-flow oil pump cover with a pressure relief valve in it that limits the output pressure to 125 psi.  That's a very good idea, usually, especially on an engine that can output that amount of pressure into the external oil filter/cooler system.  

I have used AN fittings on all of my full flow oil lines simply because I never want them to leak, let alone blow off from high pressure.  While I'm vaguely familiar with "shark bite" hose connectors, I would never use either them or a clamp-style connection on a full flowed VW engine because of that high pressure potential explained above.

Just food for thought.

If its the normal barb fittings then you definitely need hose clamps

The more costly AN fittings have a shark-bite like collar (red end) as part of the fitting

Agreed. Gates Push-on hose is one brand, there are others. Some use them with success, but I don't recommend it. I tried them in 2005, one hose split and blew off at the fitting. That was on my first startup, after about 5 minutes of running. I cut out the split, put it back on and clamped every single hose. Then at the end of the season(it was September) I did the whole system in AN and never looked back.

I use AN nylon-braided from Jegs or Summit, all in black(I think the red/blue ones look tacky with the silver hose). It looks great and lasts, and is also up to the possible 200 psi of a cold startup. I buy the store-brand fittings. They look and work just like the expensive brands, but cost less. No matter what way you do it, you will spend hundreds on hose, fittings, and adapters. Buy the AN aluminum wrenches too. Buy once.

Besides pressure-relief oil pump covers, there are also pressure-relief oil filter mounts. Dry sump pumps have no provision for a relief-style cover. The filter mounts have 3 ports, IN, OUT, and the relief pressure port. Only applicable to the two guys on here with dry sump setups though....cough, ahem, Stan and me. JayCee makes a really nice one, I have one.