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I haven’t given up yet. You know, I have had terrible luck with my Speedster made in SCOTTDALE, Az. My oil line blew off and the in short story is my engine is fried-frozen. To be fair another very experience VW mechanic put on the oil hoses.

I want a very basic1600cc with no external oil cooler. I am hearing due to COVD many 3E6BF1D0-203D-4F87-8D81-365A65C236D7

Old VW owners have time now to try get to the old VW running, making getting parts for older VW harder. I want a good rebuilt or new. MID AMERICA VW, In Illinois sells engines made in Missouri. Has anyone heard  of them?


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  • 3E6BF1D0-203D-4F87-8D81-365A65C236D7: I Am Jinxed.NEED SIMPLE 1600cc
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Chico Performance in Arcadia Ca. builds and ships engines all over the place. He has basic engines like you want.  I live in Arcadia and can check up on your build process if you choose him. I usually stop by on Thursdays to see what's happening thats new and interesting. Could even take a few photo's for you since you're a SOC member.

Sorry to hear about loosing your engine. That's a pretty devastating blow to any of us ! Especially if you're just cruising and not abusing !     Sincerely...........Bruce

While I've heard of Mid-America Motorworks, I haven't yet heard of anyone on here buying a turn-key engine from them.  Not that they haven't, just nothing heard.

Just looked at their website and what they're offering for displacement versus their pricing seems to be in the ballpark.  Single-port, single carb engines around $4500 - $5K and larger displacement engines in the $5K - $6K range is pretty competitive with the other builders.

We all know that CB Performance (Pat Downs) and Chico Performance both build very good engines and a few of us have found local builders who do a good job, too.  

Big decision ahead of you.  Sorry I can't offer more help...

1.5 stars for Mid-America

Mid America Motorworks - 14 Photos & 20 Reviews - Auto Parts & Supplies - 2900 N 3rd St, Effingham, IL - Phone Number - Yelp

Do you have time and desire to tear motor down?  Or maybe find local VW club and see if they have local recommendation or guy sidelined with the Covid shutdown that might do it.  You can probably reuse most of the parts.  Might need a line bore of case, a new crank and bearings, rod bearing and rings.

Last edited by WOLFGANG

I didn't think about the freight cost. The cheapest way is to have it shipped to a freight terminal near you and you go pick it up at that terminal. this way you avoid the extra cost to get door to door service, lift gate service and what ever else the shipper can tag on. Ask about what sort of crate (if any) will be used too. Some only use a plastic bag and strap the engine to a pallet while others bag it, put it in a complete crate and screw it down to a pallet. This helps with parts theft, and shipping damage which will only cost more time and money.................Bruce

Thanks to all. Competitive Engineering, Dan Lawson, The owner is looking around for me in California and making calls because I’m going to take the car back to him. I have heard that some of the mechanics that use these hoses on these clamps that do not need actual clamps put a clamp on anyways just to be on the safe side. If there was a clamp there it would not have come off. What I have is what I call a shark bite in plumbing. And I swear there is no clamp. And yes it happened in am And that’s the worst time

Depending on how your engine has been "full flowed", the engine's oil pump puts full pressure into the output side when started up.  If the outside temperature is under 30F/0C and the oil is very thick because of the cold, that oil pressure could be as high as 300 psi - enough to either distort your oil filter or detonate it.  

Some outfits (Gene Berg comes to mind) offer a full-flow oil pump cover with a pressure relief valve in it that limits the output pressure to 125 psi.  That's a very good idea, usually, especially on an engine that can output that amount of pressure into the external oil filter/cooler system.  

I have used AN fittings on all of my full flow oil lines simply because I never want them to leak, let alone blow off from high pressure.  While I'm vaguely familiar with "shark bite" hose connectors, I would never use either them or a clamp-style connection on a full flowed VW engine because of that high pressure potential explained above.

Just food for thought.

Agreed. Gates Push-on hose is one brand, there are others. Some use them with success, but I don't recommend it. I tried them in 2005, one hose split and blew off at the fitting. That was on my first startup, after about 5 minutes of running. I cut out the split, put it back on and clamped every single hose. Then at the end of the season(it was September) I did the whole system in AN and never looked back.

I use AN nylon-braided from Jegs or Summit, all in black(I think the red/blue ones look tacky with the silver hose). It looks great and lasts, and is also up to the possible 200 psi of a cold startup. I buy the store-brand fittings. They look and work just like the expensive brands, but cost less. No matter what way you do it, you will spend hundreds on hose, fittings, and adapters. Buy the AN aluminum wrenches too. Buy once.

Besides pressure-relief oil pump covers, there are also pressure-relief oil filter mounts. Dry sump pumps have no provision for a relief-style cover. The filter mounts have 3 ports, IN, OUT, and the relief pressure port. Only applicable to the two guys on here with dry sump setups though....cough, ahem, Stan and me. JayCee makes a really nice one, I have one.

Last edited by DannyP

AN fittings are more like a swage than a shark-bite. It's a screwed joint.

Shark-bite relies on a seal and some teeth. It's a plumbing thing (for people who hate whoever has to follow the repair in 20 years).

The push-lock hose fittings rely on the barbs of the fittings and faith that the hose will never, ever stretch. I've used them on breather lines, but I'd never use them in a pressure application.

That looks like a standard, clamped barbed fitting.  

There is no way in Hell that barbed fitting is going to survive more than a few cold-starts with high oil pressure especially with no clamps.  

"Jake the Mechanic should know this (or he simply doesn't know what a full-flowed aircooled engine is all about or he's totally BS-ing you).

Seriously, you need a better "mechanic".  This guy's costing you a lot of money.

@PaulEllis lives in the Phoenix area and I would trust him.  Find him on here and get in contact.  He knows what he's doing on these cars and then some.

Last edited by Gordon Nichols
@WOLFGANG posted:

I found those hose connectors - Radium Engineering pushlok hose ends

Says -DO NOT use hose clamps with these products. And that they are good to 800 psi!  Says just lubricate barbs and push on.

Radium Engineering - PushLok Hose Ends – Drift HQ

Everybody makes a line of push-lock fittings, and they're good for some (but not all) applications.

As I said 2-1/2 weeks ago:

@Stan Galat posted:

The push-lock hose fittings rely on the barbs of the fittings and faith that the hose will never, ever stretch. I've used them on breather lines, but I'd never use them in a pressure application.

... and this is the very reason why.

Parker introduced their push lock fittings and hose in the early 80's.....   The combo worked well for air lines, coolant (water) lines.....  When used for metro chemical or oil systems the hose would eventually age, absorb oil, loosen up and separate from the fitting.....  How do he know????   Said separation occurred when my company CFO was talking to me and hosed the two of us down big time....  12qts @ 125psi, 3ft. unsecured  hose.....      Led to my temporary nick name "Slick"....

I used push-on fittings and hose from Gates back in 2005. I had an oil eruption after a 5 minute warm-up on a 70 degree day. The hose on the in side of the filter went. What a mess. I shut it down in a couple seconds. It happened to be my first startup of the engine, the engine was run in on Jake's dyno. Thankfully no damage.

I won't ever use them again.

JPC: Throw those fittings in the garbage, they are push-on style in your picture and are supposed to work. But they fail miserably.

Get some AN hose and fittings. Buy once and cry once. Don't look back.

Last edited by DannyP

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