IaM-Ray posted:

I think he means where the hinges would have to attach at the front to serve as the pivot point for the hood .

... and I mean that's exactly what the latch in a conventional hood attaches to-- nothing. It's no different if it's hinges or a latch.

Stan Galat posted:
Carlos G posted:

I'm surprised no one has tried putting the hinges on the front of the hood like on a  Spyder??? Of course, Spyder owners have the clam shell to worry about......

Hmmmmm. I'm gonna put that one in the file.

You'd need to bond some steel in where the hinges attach, but I'll bet it could be done. I'd have to get a body in primer and then you can fabricate away.....

As Theron pointed out, the engine is not a CB performance build.  The good news is appears to be well built.  It has a balanced crank and connecting rods and spins freely.     My mechanic found a brand new set of CB 044 panchitos that are CNC porting+CNC combustion chamber porting+titanium valve retainers and dual groove valve keepers. The heads are now at the machine shop getting fly cut to match CC volume of the old heads.   

The hood is fully repaired and primed.  I was hopeful that I could get the paint code from Victor, the previous owner, but no luck.  He was kind enough to send an email to see if Henry happens to have the code.  He is a stand up guy!   If I strike out there, I’ll have to have it blended in with front of the car and hope it looks ok.  

I hope to have it back late next week!


Images (2)

Not a paint expert but I really don't like blending when it is a single discrete panel.  The way the hood sits - I would just try to get the best match possible.  The blending, to me, makes damage look worse - maybe not the next day but months down the line.  It fades differently or even the clear coat looks different.

Last edited by WOLFGANG

You're right, Greg. The only way to be sure is to paint the whole thing. But at least he can get back on the road for the driving season now.

I finally got the car back yesterday.  The hood took a bit of work to get fitted correctly.  When the hood flew up, it bent the hinge bolts.  They were too bent to be able to be removed, so they had to be cut out and replaced.  The good news is the paint matches perfectly!  

The engine with the new heads runs well.  It seems to have a little more bottom end with the CB 044 panchitos.  

Thanks all for your help and guidance.  



glad to hear the paint came out good, hopefully they just shot the hood, sometimes upon blending bc/cc the clear is thinner as you fade it out, after wetsanding/buffing to blend it , the endge of the blend doesn't always hold up to uv rays and heat and can lift from the lack of material on the blended edge.

Possibly. Is this how it's been since the new/reconfigured engine was started, or is this a change in behavior from when you first got it back?

If it's been this way, it's possible jetting is wrong. And maybe it needs a synch/tune.

If this is a change, it's probably a plugged idle jet.

Either way, have you dumped the oil and adjusted the valves since the new heads were installed. Re-torqued the heads?

@IaM-Ray posted:

The painter must be very good as that paint colour is hard to match.   Good for you. 

What helps, Ray is if the painter is using the same brand/color system then it's so much easier for him to match the finish. The different paint companies all claim for it to be possible to match any color, but all it takes is a metallic or clear to have a slightly different hue (from the original) and you're banging your head against the wall when close is simply not good enough.

@Csquared posted:

...would the higher velocity of the CB 044 panchitos make the engine run leaner?   I am getting some popping at  lower rpm's.

Not a dumb question at all, Chris. Everyone's head design and intake port volume is slightly different so the way each acts on a particular engine won't be exactly the same. Have you adjusted the idle mixture screws?  If that has no effect you may need to up the idle jet a step.

Last edited by ALB

Colourimeters are funny at times as they are basically spectrophotometers and there is some variability not to mention the sample size is small to say the least. 

I wonder how many different systems are out there  

Last edited by IaM-Ray

Danny and Al, thanks for your comments.

I noticed an occasional popping at lower RPM that was not there prior to the new heads.   My though is the main jets may need to up a size to account for the higher head air volumes.   I only have about 30 miles on the car since the new heads were put on.  I would think I want to wait for a few hundred miles before I re torque the heads and adjust the valves.  

I ran into another issue yesterday where the car had no power was running rough and would backfire if pushed to higher than 3k RPM. It would occasionally clean up a bit and then run horrible again.  I pulled the main jets and cleaned them, took it for a ride and all was well for about 8 miles and then the same thing happened.   I limped it home, pulled off the carbs, tore them down cleaned everything (did’t notice and debis or clogged passages) put all back together and it didn’t change anything.   

It idles fine, so my next step is to replace the coil, and then plug wires.  I am running the compu-fire electronic ignition which looks fine and my guess is it either works or it doesn’t.  

Any other thoughts or ideas on next steps





Csquared:  Don't know if this applies to your situation.  My car has a 2110, 44 Webers had similar symptoms to what you described.  Motor is a about 6 years old, 13K miles.  Revamped fuel system around a Carter rotary fuel pump.  Popping on start up & acceleration & backfiring on deceleration went away.

I had a fuel pump do that and the rotary pump helped and then I had a header gasket leak and it did the same thing. 

I went and picked up coil and spare distributor from a friend and installed the coil.  I then decided to check the plug wires.  And what did I find, a loose plug wire on the #3 cylinder, just sitting in the hole, probably making slight contact.  I pushed it back on the plug, put my old coil back on (as I knew I found by problem) and it runs great (still at little popping when cold).

I did not adhere to the basic law of VW mechanics, start with the basics .  The good news is, I now have really clean carbs that I know are free from any junk and adjusted correctly.    

Thanks for your thoughts and ideas!


Glad you got it figured out, Chris. I thought for some reason you had checked all the obvious so I didn't mention it originally, and as you found out- always start with the basics!

As for the popping when cold- you could try turning the idle mixture screws out ½ or 1 turn, but that should really only affect the mixture at idle so a step bigger set of idle jets are probably what's needed. I would go up as little as you can- Aircooled.net has idle jets in 1/2 sizes (42½, 47½ etc) 'cause you reallly don't need to go up very much.


You'll have to know what size jets are in your carbs now (it's always a good idea to have written down what's in your carbs so you know) and these-


so you can change the idle jets without removing the carbs are a good idea, and they make it easier to pull a jet for cleaning (should 1 get plugged) as well!

Hope this helps. Al

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