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Possibly. Is this how it's been since the new/reconfigured engine was started, or is this a change in behavior from when you first got it back?

If it's been this way, it's possible jetting is wrong. And maybe it needs a synch/tune.

If this is a change, it's probably a plugged idle jet.

Either way, have you dumped the oil and adjusted the valves since the new heads were installed. Re-torqued the heads?

@IaM-Ray posted:

The painter must be very good as that paint colour is hard to match.   Good for you. 

What helps, Ray is if the painter is using the same brand/color system then it's so much easier for him to match the finish. The different paint companies all claim for it to be possible to match any color, but all it takes is a metallic or clear to have a slightly different hue (from the original) and you're banging your head against the wall when close is simply not good enough.

@Csquared posted:

...would the higher velocity of the CB 044 panchitos make the engine run leaner?   I am getting some popping at  lower rpm's.

Not a dumb question at all, Chris. Everyone's head design and intake port volume is slightly different so the way each acts on a particular engine won't be exactly the same. Have you adjusted the idle mixture screws?  If that has no effect you may need to up the idle jet a step.

Last edited by ALB

Danny and Al, thanks for your comments.

I noticed an occasional popping at lower RPM that was not there prior to the new heads.   My though is the main jets may need to up a size to account for the higher head air volumes.   I only have about 30 miles on the car since the new heads were put on.  I would think I want to wait for a few hundred miles before I re torque the heads and adjust the valves.  

I ran into another issue yesterday where the car had no power was running rough and would backfire if pushed to higher than 3k RPM. It would occasionally clean up a bit and then run horrible again.  I pulled the main jets and cleaned them, took it for a ride and all was well for about 8 miles and then the same thing happened.   I limped it home, pulled off the carbs, tore them down cleaned everything (did’t notice and debis or clogged passages) put all back together and it didn’t change anything.   

It idles fine, so my next step is to replace the coil, and then plug wires.  I am running the compu-fire electronic ignition which looks fine and my guess is it either works or it doesn’t.  

Any other thoughts or ideas on next steps





I went and picked up coil and spare distributor from a friend and installed the coil.  I then decided to check the plug wires.  And what did I find, a loose plug wire on the #3 cylinder, just sitting in the hole, probably making slight contact.  I pushed it back on the plug, put my old coil back on (as I knew I found by problem) and it runs great (still at little popping when cold).

I did not adhere to the basic law of VW mechanics, start with the basics .  The good news is, I now have really clean carbs that I know are free from any junk and adjusted correctly.    

Thanks for your thoughts and ideas!


Glad you got it figured out, Chris. I thought for some reason you had checked all the obvious so I didn't mention it originally, and as you found out- always start with the basics!

As for the popping when cold- you could try turning the idle mixture screws out ½ or 1 turn, but that should really only affect the mixture at idle so a step bigger set of idle jets are probably what's needed. I would go up as little as you can- has idle jets in 1/2 sizes (42½, 47½ etc) 'cause you reallly don't need to go up very much.

You'll have to know what size jets are in your carbs now (it's always a good idea to have written down what's in your carbs so you know) and these-

so you can change the idle jets without removing the carbs are a good idea, and they make it easier to pull a jet for cleaning (should 1 get plugged) as well!

Hope this helps. Al

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