I've recently been contacted by someone in New Jersey who purchased a CMC Speedster that was once owned by a fellow car club member from Beaufort, SC.

The new owners are looking for a reliable Speedster/Aircooled VW mechanic in the Trenton, Somerville, Bridgewater, New Brunswick, NJ area.

Who do you'se guys know?  There's gotta be someone still working on Beetles down there.

I'll pass along whatever info I get, AND I have invited them to join this forum.  They're gonna need us, as the first thing they want to do is assemble the convertible top and tonneau that was never installed.

Thanks in advance for whatever Info I can pass along.

The Speedstah Guy from Grafton

Original Post

Hello! A big thank you to Gordon for trying to help a new replica owner. This is Lisa and I am the person in need of a mechanic and some assistance.

The blinkers in the car do not currently work and the gas gauge is also not functioning or malfunctioning. If anyone has any suggestions, please let me know. 

Thank you!

 

 

So, about that gas gauge.......    When they're working right they tend to move back and forth with the movement of the gas in the tank.  As it sloshes from side to side the gauge needle follows that movement and wanders around a lot.  I have mine adjusted so that at "Full" (gas to within a couple of inches of the top of the tank) it reads just a shade below "4/4".  When mine gets down close to "R" but the needle is still moving on turns, I know I have about 20 miles left to find a gas station.  Remember that a full tank is only 7-1/2 gallons so you'll be stopping for gas every 200 miles or less.

If it isn't working like that, there are only a couple of places to check:  In the front trunk (the "Frunk") and under the carpet is the gas tank sender.  Check to see if the wire is tight.  If that doesn't fix it, remove the wire from the sender and short it to ground, turn on the key and then check the gauge.  The gauge should go to "4/4" with that wire grounded.  If not, the gauge has an issue, so check to see if there are any fuses blown - that might fix it.  

If the fuses are OK, then check on the back side of the gauge to find the wire coming from the sender to make sure it is connected.  Then find the wire that goes to the ignition +12 volt circuit (I can't remember what kind of gauges you have in that car, so we'll go generic, here for the fix).  That should be providing +12V whenever the key is on.  If not, find the cause and remedy it.  If it does have +12 V and nothing happens when the tank wire is grounded, you'll need a new gauge.  

If you get the gauge to swing to "4/4" when grounding the sender wire then the sender is potentially bad.  

The fuel sender is on top of the gas tank in the trunk and is a stock, VW sender, P/N 113-919-049DT  with the float arm bent 180° in the opposite direction (the gauge works opposite to the original VW, but uses the same resistance sender).  It is normal for the needle to float around as the fuel moves around in the tank, so the gauge needle swings around, too.  It's one of those eccentric characters of the car that we all love.  

This should get you pointed in the right direction.   You might also contact Chris to see if the gauge worked when he owned the car, too (you never know!)

On the blinkers: (You guys call 'em "blinkers, too?")  it could be a bunch of things, so tell us a bit more, like nothing happens at all?  Push the lever and the lights light but don't blink?  What?   First guess is a fuse is out (maybe the same fuse that powers the gas gauge) so check all your fuses.  Sorry, but I can't tell you exactly where the fuse panel is - probably up under the driver's side of the dash so start there.  The next thing to check is the flasher, but I don't know what's in there or where it's at (again, Chris).  It is usually a small can-like thing about the size of a K-Cup tucked up under the dash somewhere.  

Anyway, report back and we'll help you get them going so you can

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The needle does move with the movement of the car, thanks!

We believe the flasher is bad based on the test with the voltage meter. Trying to order the correct part. If you have any suggestions on the exact part and where to order that would be great.

 

On that flasher.........

If you take the old one to a NAPA store and find the oldest guy on the customer counter, he can probably match it if there is a part number on it (telling him what car it came from will not help - he'll just give you one of those raised eyebrow looks).  

They won't be able to look up your Speedster on their computer and, even if they could, they would give you a flasher for a 6V original Porsche - not good - And I don't know what the builder (some auto body guy in Charleston, SC decades ago) used in that car, but suspect he just used a generic, 2-wire or 3-wire flasher, so if you got something at NAPA for, say, a 1970-ish Ford or Chevy it'll probably work....There's isn't a lot of Rocket Science in a flasher.  

The VW flasher for 1969 - 1971 is a small box about the size of a pack of cigarettes and has 6 wires going to it, just as a point of reference (I think I'm the only guy on here running an original VW flasher - go figure) so if yours looks like a coffee K-Cup, then it is a more generic "American" version.

Sounds like you two are making progress.  Keep at it!

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