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I'm so glad I posted.    I never imagined it'd flame a thread drift about which line on the dip stick oil should be filled to.

Agreed, oil that is outside the case in the filter, cooler and associated plumbing is not in the sump.  And, if oil level in the sump falls below the tip of the pickup tube; well, bad things can start to happen.

But in MVSPYDER's case, his extended sump solves several problems.  1st, his oil pickup is 1-1/2 quart deeper into the sump reservoir than with a stock case.  (Thus when he fills to 1/2 quart low on the stock dipstick, he still has what amounts to another full quart more than the dipstick indication 'hiding' in the sump.).  So it is unlikely he is going to suck the sump dry, even during very sporty back-road high RPM driving.  2nd, during hard corner driving the oil in the extended sump has a better chance of staying in the sump where the oil pick up is (rather than sploshing out into the valve covers exposing the oil pickup; like with a stock case).  3rd, the extended sump provides more metal surface in open air for some additional oil cooling.

And, about that "extra" oil running around outside the case?  MVSPYDER needs that too.  He has a 'big' engine.  Big engines make more heat than stock.  The more oil he can have running around outside of the hot engine case the better.  The oil is being cooled down 'out there', which cools the engine when it returns to the case.  Plus, there is the benefit of: The-more-oil-the-better.

By the way MV, you have a thermostatically controlled oil bypass to the oil cooler on top of your oil filter, and it looks like you have a thermostatically controlled fan on the cooler.  They work in series like this:  1.  Oil coming from the case to filter below 180* goes through the filter, then directly back to the case.  2.  Oil coming from the case to the filter above 180* goes through the filter, then to the cooler, and then to the case.  3.  The oil cooler fan turns on if oil coming OUT of the cooler is over 180*.

Of course, Al and Danny and Stan know all of this stuff (and a lot more than I know) so I'd never attempt to instruct them.  But MV might not.  So I'm just 'throwing it out there'.

PS:  MV, 1/2 quart low on the dipstick.  You'll be ok.

I wrote the stuff below this morning and  was going to add a little more but Stan's and Mark's responses have pretty well covered it. A lot of this myself, Stan, Danny, Mark and some others of course already know, but for those new to the modified VW world it's always good to discuss it again because if it enlightens 1 more person it's worth it. And don't worry about thread drift, @RS-60 mark- 'cause soon we'll be talkin' 'bout pie!

@Stan Galat wrote- "Let's just agree that the stock Type 1 oiling system is a joke and needs help."

Oh, I think we all agree there, Stan! I've written this before but for anyone who's missed it- you have to remember what the VW Beetle was originally- a low cost, (relatively) low maintenance commuter car for the masses. Oil was expensive, so even the 2 1/2 (instead of 4 that most engines were designed with) quarts it took to fill it was considered a cost saving as well. Yes, the oil system has failings (that especially rear their ugly head when you make the engine rev higher and make substantially more power) but you have to realize that when driven and maintained as intended, these 'low cost commuter cars' regularly clocked 100,000 + miles before the engines needed to be rebuilt, which was not yet routine in the automotive world. The factory found more than acceptable engine life without (among other things) the machining steps we now call the Hoover mods, so you can understand why they were never incorporated. 

Welcome.  Always great to have another Spyder owner.  Since I've got suby power I'll be of little help with mechanical matters.  But I don't have to be...I've got a suby.  Any mechanical questions you have can and will be answered by the knowledgeable guys on this site.

But OMG, I've got serious tire and wheel envy.  My 200hp suby (with LSD) breaks the rear end loose at the drop of a hat.  I could really use that grip.  Beautiful car obviously built with thought and CA$H.  Congratulations.  

Since my Spyder came with the wheels, I really have no idea about cost. Tomorrow it gets new rubber (tires are 2005 manufacture) and I will have the shop put a tape on them for width. After looking closely, it appears that there was a lot of machining done and they are also 3 piece as there are about 40-50 bolts holding the barrel to the center piece. I remember reading someplace that Coddington (or his Son) was making bespoke wheels for Spyders and they were Expen$ive. From the look of things my car was an open checkbook build/maintained. Details are still available on BAT  if you search 550A Spyder.

 

 

Robert M posted:
DannyP posted:

Yeah, I'd like to know wheel make, cost, and width.

I could only make out that the front/rear tires are 225/50R16. I know that won't help with rim information but it might give an idea on the width of the rim.

I don't think the front/rear tires are the same size, Robert. You are right in that the rears are 225/50's, on either 7 or 8" rims (I'm guessing 7's because of the look of the sidewall- it's pulled in a little to meet the rim) but the fronts are (I think) smaller, either 195's or 205's, on 5½'s or 6's?

As for the rims- while I don't think they are Vintage 190's, they look a little like them around the wheel nut area, but I've never heard of them building 16" wheels (which would be sooo cooool!).  It'll be interesting to hear what @MVSpyder has to say after the trip to the tire shop. Al

According to the pictures in that ad, the fronts are 205s.

I believe the 190s are cast. There is a lot more involved with changing the size. Now, if they were CNC'd, all it'd technically take, are a few key strokes to get whatever size and offset one would care to have. Of course, they'd be able to charge whatever the hell they wanted for them too.

The first thing that would help our cause out, would be to get the car manufactures to center the body on the frame, or correct the fender differences in the molds, if that's where the real problem is.          Jus sayin.

 

ALB posted:
Robert M posted:
DannyP posted:

Yeah, I'd like to know wheel make, cost, and width.

I could only make out that the front/rear tires are 225/50R16. I know that won't help with rim information but it might give an idea on the width of the rim.

I don't think the front/rear tires are the same size, Robert. You are right in that the rears are 225/50's, on either 7 or 8" rims (I'm guessing 7's because of the look of the sidewall- it's pulled in a little to meet the rim) but the fronts are (I think) smaller, either 195's or 205's, on 5½'s or 6's?

As for the rims- while I don't think they are Vintage 190's, they look a little like them around the wheel nut area, but I've never heard of them building 16" wheels (which would be sooo cooool!).  It'll be interesting to hear what @MVSpyder has to say after the trip to the tire shop. Al

I see that now. I enlarged two different photos of the rear tire thinking one of them was the front. I did think it was idd that the tires were the same. Can’t fault a guy for trying. Lol

I doubt the tire/wheel combination on MV's spyder will fit many other spyders, or 356 for that matter.  Those who have been around for a while remember that Thunder Ranch made basically two different styles of the 550 body.  One that was the familiar Beck shape, and one that was something of a 'wide body' variant.  MV has the wide body, noticeable by the front fender flares and wide rear clam.

So, unless one's spyder or 356 body is purposefully flared to accommodate 'wider-than-period' wheels and tires, replicating MV's good looking combination might be a tough fit.

As to how TR flared their A model, the front is pretty obvious. The back looks like the whole "fender" was cut off then rolled outward some, then reattached to the clamshell.

I've been drooling with the 550 idea for many years and the TR was on my radar, as was the McRae with the 914 rear suspension that I saw somewhere.

@MVSpyder your going to have fun with this car and do let us know which tires you end up with.           Cuz, we've gots to know.

Last edited by Carlos G
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