Skip to main content

Hi all,  just got a new toy and would like input on mechanics in Los Angeles or San Fernando valley for it. It’s a few years old VS rebuilt 2100cc and rebuilt FF trans. There’s been quite a bit of mods on the car. Want to have it checked out and also see what everything is. Will maybe need to update rear to disk brakes, but don’t feel it’s necessary. Is there anything I should be looking for to make sure all is up and up? Where should I be looking to educate myself?  Thanks in advance, Mike. 

Attachments

Images (1)
  • 64099D0D-DFB8-4E33-BD64-83BD347BC25B: Newer VS 356
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Thank you guys. Gordon’s checklist was helpful, as I tried to look for most of what he wrote except the tightness of the bolts. I have sway bars on the suspension, and the suspension is quite tight and stiff. Might be too still and may need to update to better shocks someday. Al in all seems like a good buy for me at an average price. Cars is getting an oil change and can’t wait. One thing I came across is that the engine bay should be sealed. Mine has gaps and I see daylight. Is that ok?  Do I need to have it addressed?  There are so many cooling features on the car that having the gaps sealed would not hurt. I took it for a drive and the ting was at less than a quarter up on the temp gauge. I assumed there’s an issue with the gauge but was told about the oil hopper and fan. Btw, what engine oil you guys use?  Synthetic ok? How often do you change?

Thanks, Mike

You really do need to seal up the engine compartment. While the oil temp may be OK, the cylinder head temp might not. For a start,If you can see the backside of the tail lights from inside the engine compartment, you need to seal that whole area up. Common sense should tell you that if it isn't sealed up you are sucking up hot air that already went through the engine and is being recycled. Here's a few photos of how I did mine. It's not a difficult job...........Bruce

Attachments

Images (5)
  • DSC_0010
  • DSC_0008
  • DSC_0009
  • DSC_0004
  • DSC_0001

If the gap you need to seal is the gap between the engine tin and the engine compartment you can use an "H" seal for a VW bus. There is a coated side and an uncoated side. the uncoated side goes toward the bottom. I will try to remember to take pics when I get home and will post them for reference unless someone else has some handy. Never mind, I stole some photos off of the internet:

If your gap looks like this:

engine_bay1

Then you need a VW bus seal to do this:

SPEEDSTER 226

Attachments

Images (2)
  • engine_bay1
  • SPEEDSTER 226
Last edited by Robert M
Robert M posted:

If the gap you need to seal is the gap between the engine tin and the engine compartment you can use an "H" seal for a VW bus. There is a coated side and an uncoated side. the uncoated side goes toward the bottom. I will try to remember to take pics when I get home and will post them for reference unless someone else has some handy. Never mind, I stole some photos off of the internet:

If your gap looks like this:

engine_bay1

Then you need a VW bus seal to do this:

SPEEDSTER 226

Is it foam?  Will it get hot and melt?

Mike Naz 356 posted:
Robert M posted:

If the gap you need to seal is the gap between the engine tin and the engine compartment you can use an "H" seal for a VW bus. There is a coated side and an uncoated side. the uncoated side goes toward the bottom. I will try to remember to take pics when I get home and will post them for reference unless someone else has some handy. Never mind, I stole some photos off of the internet:

If your gap looks like this:

engine_bay1

Then you need a VW bus seal to do this:

SPEEDSTER 226

Is it foam?  Will it get hot and melt?

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDe...Code=VWC-411-813-225

It's foam but one side is coated and won't melt.

Add Reply

Post Content
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×