Alan Merklin posted:Now that you have the Nut Certs in , they're fine but when you install the headlight ring bolt , try dabbing some caulk on the threads , this will keep the bolt from vibrating loose . I would not use Loc Tite blue because you may end up spinning the nut cert when removing the bolt. I use stainless Allen1/4 -20 and a NyLoc nut
i was going to add a little adhesive to the back so it wont spin.
Plane on doing the tonneau cover this weekend. what brand snaps should i get? found these.
They'll work be sure to buy a leather punch and a snap crimping tool. Be careful as you lay out your work to avoid a wrinkle .
@TJ Ward when I finally pull the trigger on a full tonneau (I only have the 1/4 tonneau), I’d like to replace the existing snaps with Tenax. I believe they are more expensive, and I haven’t done a deep dive into the research. (I just priced them out on Sierra Madre, Stoddard, etc.)
I’m certain there are a number of folks here (much, much, much more experienced than I) that will be able to shed some light on this subject. I’d love to hear what those in this group think of Tenax fasteners and/or swapping out the “standard” snaps for Tenax.
Tenax are IMO the best type.
I've always had issues with the snap cover canvas fasteners breaking apart from bad riveting (or corrosion) on marine stuff - but they are cheap and easily replaced. I do plan to use Tenax fasteners though because they look better, there aren't that many needed and they don't come apart. Be advised there are German and British Tenax fasteners and they are not interchangeable! They come in nickel, SS, chrome and black chrome - each with increasing price. eBay is not an inexpensive option!
Site above has them but not sure country origin -
https://www.sailrite.com/search?keywords=tenax
I have found this place to be about the least expensive (Made in Germany) -
http://www.boatcanvashardware....cZZgTBCRQaAmE88P8HAQ
This site has good details on Tenax but highest cost -
And if you're on the East Coast-ish and want to order from someone closer, Jamestown distributors in Rhode Island has everything from regular snaps to Tenax-like "Taylor Made" pull-up fasteners (better than Tenax and made for regular use on sailboat canvas). They also have this really handy tool for popping snaps that like to really hold on. I got one a while back and love it:
https://www.jamestowndistribut...per+Canvas+Snap+Tool
WOLFGANG posted:I've always had issues with the snap cover canvas fasteners breaking apart from bad riveting (or corrosion) on marine stuff - but they are cheap and easily replaced. I do plan to use Tenax fasteners though because they look better, there aren't that many needed and they don't come apart. Be advised there are German and British Tenax fasteners and they are not interchangeable! They come in nickel, SS, chrome and black chrome - each with increasing price. eBay is not an inexpensive option!
Site above has them but not sure country origin -
https://www.sailrite.com/search?keywords=tenax
I have found this place to be about the least expensive (Made in Germany) -
http://www.boatcanvashardware....cZZgTBCRQaAmE88P8HAQ
This site has good details on Tenax but highest cost -
What will you be changing them on, you have a boat?
Bill those links are useful thanks Ray
Finishing up the headlight. They needed a little sanding to round it out a bit. Looks a lot better. Some glazing putty and more sanding tomorrow.
English Tenax are cheaper than German. I got mine from here:
Appears to be a Mexican sourced kit.
WOLFGANG posted:
You think he may be a bit out of line on price?
I love the interior and folding top! It seems to list all the parts needed to complete. Hope all is well with builder - he was gung-ho for awhile there. Maybe shortening the chassis got him stalled?
Thought I would post up some prices and see if it can sell. If so , I will be a US dealer for Customs Fiberglass. If not, I should be shortening the pan soon, needs to be rolled back into the garage.
Panhandle Bob posted:WOLFGANG posted:You think he may be a bit out of line on price?
Yup!
Your not kidding 
I sounds like I bit off more than I can chew but I want all my money back
So, is Customs Fiberglass a new company that we have not learned of?
TJ Ward posted:Measured about 20 times. think I'm ready to cut, might measure some more.
Interesting. All this time I thought the piece was removed from the front of the pan. But that just goes to show I don't know anything about building one from scratch.
Cut the jack points off too (and seat tracks) - they can't be used.
Good luck!
I remember trying to find straight 2x4" at HomeDepot for the chassis measurement jig. Then after cutting using a string to ensure the new pan was square and level. In hindsight having a frame shop reweld together on a precisionsteel frame bed would have been MUCH more accurate.
Yea, I remember the the 2 x 4 jig they recommended. I made mine out of square steel with bolts drilled through. I leveled it with a 6’ construction level then welded it up with the stick welder.
Anyone have a picture of the jig? In action?
There's 3-4 pages on shortening chassis in the FF/CMC build manual - I sent you PM.
It may be just me, but I would clamp both 2 X 4s together so one end has them even and then cut them BOTH to 60" as the instructions say, then drill the holes through BOTH at the same time to insure that they are the same. That way, it's easier to insure that they're both in alignment. Also, make sure you make the diagonal measurements equal before you tighten everything up for welding when you put the pan back together.
Just as an aside, I have found it a LOT easier to carefully cut the welds holding the cable tubes to the chassis at the rear of the pan so they are then free, then cut the section out of your pan and just push the two sections back together, now shorter. THAT way, you're not messing around trying to get the tubes back together inside of the tunnel. There should be 6 tubes to deal with: (2) heater, (2) emergency brake, (1) throttle and (1) clutch
Instead of the recommended 2 x 4's I've used the same 1-1/2 x 1-1/2" twin bed angle frame rails for years that perfectly ( when the local body shop Data Liner table was not available) be super careful and exact to have both sections of the chassis on a perfect horizontal plane or you'll play hell later on with engine fitment within the engine bay..... I've seen and corrected some real " Doozies "
Getting there. 
I'm sure that's a Raul car from Mexico transplant to San Antonio... I'll put coins on that bet. I kinda am thinking about possibly doing a coupe but from the scuttle bug Sylvio in NJ has been waiting a long........... time to get his coupe project from Mexico If I knew for sure I could order and get a coupe kit for sure within an 8 week time span I would consider it. Just my .02
There should be 6 tubes to deal with: (2) heater, (2) emergency brake, (1) throttle and (1) clutch
plus a 1/4" gas line
Alan Merklin posted:I'm sure that's a Raul car from Mexico transplant to San Antonio... I'll put coins on that bet. I kinda am thinking about possibly doing a coupe but from the scuttle bug Sylvio in NJ has been waiting a long........... time to get his coupe project from Mexico If I knew for sure I could order and get a coupe kit for sure within an 8 week time span I would consider it. Just my .02
Customs Fiberglass from Rafael out of Mexico. Guy in NJ had to wait cause he can only send 3 cars at a time with the shipping company he used. His was shipped with mine. And we had to wait on shipping payment from one guy also. I'm working with him to find a better way to get one body here to me with in 4-6 weeks. I might have to go to Mexico myself and pick it up.
WOLFGANG posted:There should be 6 tubes to deal with: (2) heater, (2) emergency brake, (1) throttle and (1) clutch
plus a 1/4" gas line
this pan had 8. its an automatic pan so 2 went under the rear set. I cut the welds on the throttle and fuel so those were easy. the e brake i measured 3" from my rear cut then cut off the rest, put the pan together and they fit perfect in the spot where they go. there just not flared out like the old ends. removed all the other. BUT i have to install clutch cable tube cause it was an automatic pan.
On both of my builds I pulled the steel gas line and replaced it with new. Just seemed to make sense to eliminate rust and scale. It's reasonably easy to fish a new one through if you just attach a wire to one end. I pulled them through from front to rear.
Nice work, TJ. I hope you realize that you're amazing about 9/10ths of this board by doing this, since most of us never have cut a pan (at least one we planned to actually use) and would be scared to death to try.
Me, I'd try it. Mostly out of ignorance. But I'm pleased to learn that, every once in a while, I guess right:
First thing I thought of re chassis jig is use an old bed frame and I almost wrote it but then thought "dude you don't know what you're talking about shut up" and then in chimes Da Clocker with the same tip.
I've never felt so validated in my life.
Yeah, the good Doctor uses angle iron bed frames, too. He just dunnint want anybody stealing his tricks!
But then, he did say he had retired or sumthin....So his tricks are open game. I think I read that somewhere.
And the cutting apart isn't all that anxiety-creating. It's the gettin' it back together part, with my "expert" welding experience that worried me!
Aww geesh Gordon you just don't want to be seen roadside picking a twin bed frame or going dumpster diving :~)
