Newbie from TX

Installed the motor. Had two guys tell me the exhaust wasn't going to fit. Said it was going to hit the inside. Well it Fits nice, i like it. one deck lid hinge is hitting the fan shroud and the bottom of the deck lid is also hitting the fan shroud. So that needs a little more work.  

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TJ Ward posted:

Installed the motor. Had two guys tell me the exhaust wasn't going to fit. Said it was going to hit the inside. Well it Fits nice, i like it. one deck lid hinge is hitting the fan shroud and the bottom of the deck lid is also hitting the fan shroud. So that needs a little more work.  

I didn't look at my hinges but if you swap the left and right it should push the hinge arm out further so you get more clearance.

James posted:

I don't have a picture available, but I cut the material in the bottom, center of the rounded groove that fits over the windshield.  Then I used a "D" shaped weather stripping (same that I used around the doors) to cover the same area in the groove.  

Hope this makes sense.

where did you buy the "D" shaped rubber? 

my light switch came in today so just waiting for the blinker. Hooked up a battery and nothing, just the starter turning.  I check all my grounds and there it is, lol no fuses. Anyone know the fuses i need from let to right? Its a vintage wiring kit.

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You should be OK with 15 or 20 amp all the way across.

Judging by the colors, the blue and white on the far right are the High and Low beam headlights. I believe the wiper is green and the coil/ignition is black. The red ones are the headlight switch and brake light power, and key switch power. I think the first 2 or 3 are always on.

Rule of thumb: 15 amp for 14 gauge wire, 20 amp for 12, and 30 amp for 10 gauge. This ensures that the fuse blows WELL before the wire.

The Chinese repop headlight switches are JUNK. I went through 3, they kept burning out internally.

Then I bought one, yes, one, early 6 volt Bug headlight switch at a swap meet. It works and works VERY well. Old, durable, heavy brass inside. And the best thing is with a 12 volt system, you are are running HALF the designed current through it. So it should last twice as long, maybe?

If you have flash to pass, that won't work anymore without some extra relay gymnastics. That is the only caveat to using this switch.

I have no idea if this new one is any good, but mine looks like this one:

https://www.mooreparts.com/das...0EAQYAyABEgI71fD_BwE

Do not cut any hole there !  You will have water intrusion. I did open the center on this one because of the center Weber air cleaner .. not shown is the cover I made to go over the top of the air cleaner. On the underside of the lid there should be elongated openings on the L & R sides like this  ( I added the round vent holes) Candy 3 

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Regarding the "rain shield". I've driven through some pretty biblical thunderstorms. If it REALLY rains, that little bitty rain shield accomplishes nothing but keeping a bit of water off the alternator. The water still pours into the engine compartment.

If I were doing it again: I'd take it out, put in some stainless mesh, and never look back.

I agree. Rain shields on the carbs are great. That's really the only place I'd worry about water. If, and I say if, you ever have a spark/water/distributor problem, a little WD-40 and you're good to go. In fact, it's the only thing I'd ever use WD for....

Michael McKelvey posted:

I believe that is what WD-40 was created for.  I think WD stands for Water Displacement.

The first work van I was ever issued was a 1978 Ford E250. The van was about 8 yrs old with 150k mi. when I got it.

It had a distributor. Every time it rained (or misted, or the relative humidity was above 80%) - the thing did not want to start.

Part of the morning ritual was popping the distributor cap, wiping it out with a rag, and spraying everything in sight with WD-40. A shot of ether down the carb throat, a quick jump into the driver seat, and with luck it would catch and light. It took about 15 minutes every morning to get that stupid truck running.

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Cliff Presley - Charlotte, NCjoelabrahamMatGrv
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