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Hello my name is TJ

I will be building a speedster from the ground up. I'm having my friend Rafael in Mexico build me a Speedster body also getting the windshield and complete interior from him.  Hoping to have it done and here in my garage in about three week.  I have some parts but not all, still need a pan and transaxle. and all electrics.  Probably going to be ordering stuff from Beck as i go along. If anyone has stuff please let me know what you have and i will also keep an eye on the classifieds. Hoping to find a pan soon so i don't have to butcher a dune buggy or a bug. Found 2 but no titles. Stay tuned.

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Rafael used to occasionally offer Speedster parts - like a folding top assembly - on ebay.  I think back then (2011) it was $499 complete? Would be interested to see if you are going with that.  Would also like to see his interior kit.

Here's photo of Rafael's top frame (is that him fitting it?):

received_m_mid_1399338412278_e32538175ed2c9a162_0.jpeg

received_m_mid_1393972136195_7f6ac7f361430e9b45_0.jpeg

An inexpensive source of parts is http://vintagespeedsterparts.com/ - they have a great catalog with pictures at their web site.  S&H is a flat $15 on most items.  They have a sale now on rear license plate lights ($83) and head lamps ($22).  

Here's already shortened pan on SAMBA - '64 swing axel.  But NO TITLE for $350. Its not too far - Illinois.  With a bill of sale perhaps you could get TX title.  http://www.thesamba.com/vw/cla...etail.php?id=1941821

Same guy has unfinished Speedster for $8200. 

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/cla...etail.php?id=1930994

 Look forward to following your build!

Last edited by WOLFGANG

"any info on the hole measurements for the front blinkers and grills? "

Light:  Use Manny's specs for location of the light

    bulbholder Main hole = 3/4"

    Mounting screw holes = 5/32

    

Horn Grill:  Use Manny's specs for location of the grill (different years, different heights).

    The big hole follows a scribe mark in the fiberglass on CMC/FF bodies.

    The mounting screws are metric, but a 4-40 seems to fit, too, and will require a 1/8"  hole for the screw.

And yes, all this stuff is in the Fiberfab 1985 assembly manual (but Manny's specs are better).

Where would you use it?  For the screw holding the trim ring down to the body just below the headlight or elsewhere?  It might be a good idea just below the headlight - you could remove the trim ring without reaching under the car to hold the nut!

My only concern would be to get it tightly pressed into the fiberglass with enough “bite” to stay put while tightening/loosening the trim screw but without causing any cracks in the paint around the hole.  They can be installed with a hand wrench, but my experience with them is only with a pneumatic riv-tool.  THOSE are like welded in once installed, but we always used them in metal.

TJ, Your car is looking great.  I went down to CMC back in the 80s when they were building mine.  I should have taken pics.  It was quite a production operation there in Miami.  I think I still taste the fiberglass dust! 

   Good luck with your build. You certainly have some great advisers in this group.  I wish I had this resource back when I built mine. I have the CMC build book if you need anything copied.  Have some fun every day! 

 

Donating member of SOC can pull down 2 FF and 2 CMC  build manuals (covering different years) from the RESOURCES/LIBRARY tab here on SOC.  For some reason I'm not see those tabs today?  It worth while printing the manuals off even if you don't have a CMC or FF - they are useful with early IM/VS/JPS - any VW pan based Speedster.

Building was 160,000 sq feet with a 45 foot tall rotating display tower! (Torn down and now a shopping center)

Now that you have the Nut Certs in , they're  fine but when you install the headlight ring bolt , try dabbing some caulk on the threads , this will keep the bolt from vibrating loose . I would not use Loc Tite blue because you may end up spinning the nut cert  when removing the bolt.   I use stainless Allen1/4 -20 and a NyLoc nut

 

Last edited by Alan Merklin
Alan Merklin posted:

Now that you have the Nut Certs in , they're  fine but when you install the headlight ring bolt , try dabbing some caulk on the threads , this will keep the bolt from vibrating loose . I would not use Loc Tite blue because you may end up spinning the nut cert  when removing the bolt.   I use stainless Allen1/4 -20 and a NyLoc nut

 

i was going to add a little adhesive to the back so it wont spin.  

@TJ Ward when I finally pull the trigger on a full tonneau (I only have the 1/4 tonneau), I’d like to replace the existing snaps with Tenax. I believe they are more expensive, and I haven’t done a deep dive into the research. (I just priced them out on Sierra Madre, Stoddard, etc.)

I’m certain there are a number of folks here (much, much, much more experienced than I) that will be able to shed some light on this subject. I’d love to hear what those in this group think of Tenax fasteners and/or swapping out the “standard” snaps for Tenax. 

I've always had issues with the snap cover canvas fasteners breaking apart from bad riveting (or corrosion) on marine stuff - but they are cheap and easily replaced.  I do plan to use Tenax fasteners though because they look better, there aren't that many needed and they don't come apart.  Be advised there are German and British Tenax fasteners and they are not interchangeable!  They come in nickel, SS, chrome and black chrome - each with increasing price. eBay is not an inexpensive option!

Site above has them but not sure country origin -

https://www.sailrite.com/search?keywords=tenax

I have found this place to be about the least expensive (Made in Germany) -

http://www.boatcanvashardware....cZZgTBCRQaAmE88P8HAQ

This site has good details on Tenax but highest cost -

http://www.eagleday.com/tefage.html

And if you're on the East Coast-ish and want to order from someone closer, Jamestown distributors in Rhode Island has everything from regular snaps to Tenax-like "Taylor Made" pull-up fasteners (better than Tenax and made for regular use on sailboat canvas).  They also have this really handy tool for popping snaps that like to really hold on.  I got one a while back and love it:

https://www.jamestowndistribut...per+Canvas+Snap+Tool

 

WOLFGANG posted:

I've always had issues with the snap cover canvas fasteners breaking apart from bad riveting (or corrosion) on marine stuff - but they are cheap and easily replaced.  I do plan to use Tenax fasteners though because they look better, there aren't that many needed and they don't come apart.  Be advised there are German and British Tenax fasteners and they are not interchangeable!  They come in nickel, SS, chrome and black chrome - each with increasing price. eBay is not an inexpensive option!

Site above has them but not sure country origin -

https://www.sailrite.com/search?keywords=tenax

I have found this place to be about the least expensive (Made in Germany) -

http://www.boatcanvashardware....cZZgTBCRQaAmE88P8HAQ

This site has good details on Tenax but highest cost -

http://www.eagleday.com/tefage.html

What will you be changing them on, you have a boat?

It may be just me, but I would clamp both 2 X 4s together so one end has them even and then cut them BOTH to 60" as the instructions say, then drill the holes through BOTH at the same time to insure that they are the same.  That way, it's easier to insure that they're both in alignment.  Also, make sure you make the diagonal measurements equal before you tighten everything up for welding when you put the pan back together.

Just as an aside, I have found it a LOT easier to carefully cut the welds holding the cable tubes to the chassis at the rear of the pan so they are then free, then cut the section out of your pan and just push the two sections back together, now shorter.  THAT way, you're not messing around trying to get the tubes back together inside of the tunnel.   There should be 6 tubes to deal with:  (2) heater, (2) emergency brake, (1) throttle and (1) clutch

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

Instead of the recommended 2 x 4's I've used the same  1-1/2 x 1-1/2" twin bed angle frame rails for years that  perfectly ( when the local body shop Data Liner table was not available)  be super careful and exact to have both sections of the chassis on a perfect horizontal plane or you'll play hell later on with engine fitment within the engine bay..... I've seen and corrected some real " Doozies "

 

I'm sure that's a Raul car from Mexico transplant to San Antonio... I'll put coins on that bet.    I kinda am thinking about possibly doing a coupe but from the scuttle bug Sylvio in NJ has been waiting a long........... time to get his coupe project from Mexico  If I knew for sure I could order and get a coupe kit for sure within an 8 week time span I would consider it. Just my .02

Last edited by Alan Merklin
Alan Merklin posted:

I'm sure that's a Raul car from Mexico transplant to San Antonio... I'll put coins on that bet.    I kinda am thinking about possibly doing a coupe but from the scuttle bug Sylvio in NJ has been waiting a long........... time to get his coupe project from Mexico  If I knew for sure I could order and get a coupe kit for sure within an 8 week time span I would consider it. Just my .02

Customs Fiberglass from Rafael out of Mexico.  Guy in NJ had to wait cause he can only send 3 cars at a time with the shipping company he used. His was shipped with mine. And we had to wait on shipping payment from one guy also.  I'm working with him to find a better way to get one body here to me with in 4-6 weeks.  I might have to go to Mexico myself and pick it up. 

WOLFGANG posted:

There should be 6 tubes to deal with:  (2) heater, (2) emergency brake, (1) throttle and (1) clutch

plus a 1/4" gas line

this pan had 8. its an automatic pan so 2 went under the rear set. I cut the welds on the throttle and fuel so those were easy. the e brake i measured 3" from my rear cut then cut off the rest, put the pan together and they fit perfect in the spot where they go. there just not flared out like the old ends. removed all the other. BUT i have to install clutch cable tube cause it was an automatic pan. 

Nice work, TJ. I hope you realize that you're amazing about 9/10ths of this board by doing this, since most of us never have cut a pan (at least one we planned to actually use) and would be scared to death to try.

Me, I'd try it. Mostly out of ignorance. But I'm pleased to learn that, every once in a while, I guess right: 

First thing I thought of re chassis jig is use an old bed frame and I almost wrote it but then thought "dude you don't know what you're talking about shut up" and then in chimes Da Clocker with the same tip.

I've never felt so validated in my life.

Yeah, the good Doctor uses angle iron bed frames, too.  He just dunnint want anybody stealing his tricks!

But then, he did say he had retired or sumthin....So his tricks are open game.   I think I read that somewhere.

And the cutting apart isn't all that anxiety-creating.  It's the gettin' it back together part, with my "expert" welding experience that worried me!

Last edited by Gordon Nichols
Gordon Nichols posted:

On both of my builds I pulled the steel gas line and replaced it with new.  Just seemed to make sense to eliminate rust and scale.  It's reasonably easy to fish a new one through if you just attach a wire to one end.  I pulled them through from front to rear.

 

i cut out the fuel line, i'll install a new one next to the new brake line along the tunnel. Always hated gas leaks inside the tunnel. 

I honestly can't remember that far back (1990).  I think I used the cut out piece or part of it to weld over an overlapping piece on top of the tunnel to reinforce it.  Covered in Dynamat now.  No way can you heat and bend whats there that much.

Edit - Found photo of my covered "add on" overlap - here's old picture from years ago.

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Last edited by WOLFGANG

Wasn't able to get the body on the pan yet. Its painted, seam sealed and under coating on the bottom. Installed a new accelerator cable, fuel line, shifter rod and shifter. I still need to cut a hole in the side of the tunnel and install a clutch tube, its an automatic pan. Tie rods installed but one, the one with the hole for the damper. Also need a damper, ball joints, shocks and steering column, steering wheel and tires. Then it should be ready. maybe. also need a pan seal.

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WOLFGANG posted:

I honestly can't remember that far back (1990).  I think I used the cut out piece or part of it to weld over an overlapping piece on top of the tunnel to reinforce it.  Covered in Dynamat now.  No way can you heat and bend whats there that much.

Edit - Found photo of my covered "add on" overlap - here's old picture from years ago.

Okay... Seriously, Greg?!  When are we going to put that horse in the barn? Get back to work on that thing already!

I'm in for the wiring.  Should take a couple of days, tops (just get a VS harness and be done with it).  Bring along a "Box o Joe" from Dunkies and a few croissants and I'm golden.  Oh, and lots of Bug Spray (you know how Florida is.....), maybe a snake-bite kit, too, I dunno.

How far out in the swamp is Greg's garage, anyway?  Is there a cell phone signal?  A/C? A Local Waffle House?  Mechanically Inquisitive minds want to know.....

Gordon Nichols posted:

I'm in for the wiring.  Should take a couple of days, tops (just get a VS harness and be done with it).  Bring along a "Box o Joe" from Dunkies and a few croissants and I'm golden.  Oh, and lots of Bug Spray (you know how Florida is.....), maybe a snake-bite kit, too, I dunno.

How far out in the swamp is Greg's garage, anyway?  Is there a cell phone signal?  A/C? A Local Waffle House?  Mechanically Inquisitive minds want to know.....

This is the south......there is always a Waffle House close. No swamp in Baker, but we can get you to one pretty quickly.  You don't need cell phone access, we'll be there to work, not talk. No A/C necessary for another month or two, this is Lower Alabama not Miami. No bugs right now and the snakes are dormant. Perfect time to finish " Wolfgang's Folly" before Carlisle.

What do you say there, Wolfie? I'm in!

Last edited by Panhandle Bob
Panhandle Bob posted:
Gordon Nichols posted:

I'm in for the wiring.  Should take a couple of days, tops (just get a VS harness and be done with it).  Bring along a "Box o Joe" from Dunkies and a few croissants and I'm golden.  Oh, and lots of Bug Spray (you know how Florida is.....), maybe a snake-bite kit, too, I dunno.

How far out in the swamp is Greg's garage, anyway?  Is there a cell phone signal?  A/C? A Local Waffle House?  Mechanically Inquisitive minds want to know.....

This is the south......there is always a Waffle House close. No swamp in Baker, but we can get you to one pretty quickly.  You don't need cell phone access, we'll be there to work, not talk. No A/C necessary for another month or two, this is Lower Alabama not Miami. No bugs right now and the snakes are dormant. Perfect time to finish " Wolfgang's Folly" before Carlisle.

What do you say there, Wolfie? I'm in!

The cell phone access is to ask the SOC for their opinions when you guys get stuck on something.

Me too, but I use a re-purposed iPad on Wifi out in the shop so the pictures are bigger.  But my WiFi signal used to suck out there, so Chris made up a long ethernet cable for me (it's good to have a kid still in the Biz) and I set up our old router from the last house as a private WiFi extender for a better signal.

I got a little wild with the SSID on that second router.  If my neighbors see it pop up in a search for a network, it comes up as "FBI Reconnaissance Van #29"   

Gordon Nichols posted:

I got a little wild with the SSID on that second router.  If my neighbors see it pop up in a search for a network, it comes up as "FBI Reconnaissance Van #29"   

I agree with Michael; too funny! I'm going to have to rename our system "CSIS Recon #5". 

Living in such close proximity with so many neighbors (we're in a townhouse), first time they see this as a new choice it's bound to freak someone out...

IaM-Ray posted:

I always wanted a media blaster any suggestions?

I have the bench top blaster from Eastwood. I'm using glass media from Northern tool. 

DannyP posted:

TJ, I'd really recommend installing beam adjusters in there, you WILL want them for ride height adjustment later. Looking good!

i'm going with dropped spindles. 

Dropped spindles give you 2 1/2" drop.  With currently available low profile tires that could be too much.  With old 80/75 series tires it was probably fine but a 65 series tire care is already 1" lower.  Plus you want car to appear level and 2 1/2" may be too much for rear to drop. Be sure to press in new ball joints before repainting as often arms have to be heated to remove/install new ones.

Last edited by WOLFGANG

Looking really good!  I agree with the others, beam adjusters will be useful and now is the time to install them.  Also, you will need to remove some of the leaves from the beam because your Speedster is lighter than a Bug and the suspension will be too stiff.  I think I removed all the narrow leaves. 

One more suggestion, replace the ball joints and beam bushings/bearings.  No matter how well you protect parts when media blasting, they will get grit in them and they may have a lot of miles on them also.  By completely disassembling, replacing and greasing all the components, you will have a reliable and well performing front end. 

Just my opinions and trying to be helpful! 

James

Last edited by James
TJ Ward posted:

... Thinking of just going with the stock drum brakes and not disc, and running wide 5 fuchs. Anyone have them that can post pic?  Also what column  is the best to go with? i like the mid 60's bug.   

May I suggest rethinking going with front drums? These cars are so much fun and it's really easy to start "pushing it" and get past the stock drums' capabilities, and that gets really REALLY scary (as well as downright dangerous)! Discs on the front is an upgrade every one of these cars should have, even for the guy who only ever cruises to the ice cream stand or beach.

I'm sure there will be different opinions, but an early or mid '60's steering column will look good. Al

ALB posted:
TJ Ward posted:

... Thinking of just going with the stock drum brakes and not disc, and running wide 5 fuchs. Anyone have them that can post pic?  Also what column  is the best to go with? i like the mid 60's bug.   

May I suggest rethinking going with front drums? These cars are so much fun and it's really easy to start "pushing it" and get past the stock drums' capabilities, and that gets really REALLY scary (as well as downright dangerous)! Discs on the front is an upgrade every one of these cars should have, even for the guy who only ever cruises to the ice cream stand or beach.

I'm sure there will be different opinions, but an early or mid '60's steering column will look good. Al

Any wide 5 ball joints kits you recommend? 

 

TJ Ward posted:
ALB posted:
TJ Ward posted:

... Thinking of just going with the stock drum brakes and not disc, and running wide 5 fuchs. Anyone have them that can post pic?  Also what column  is the best to go with? i like the mid 60's bug.   

May I suggest rethinking going with front drums? These cars are so much fun and it's really easy to start "pushing it" and get past the stock drums' capabilities, and that gets really REALLY scary (as well as downright dangerous)! Discs on the front is an upgrade every one of these cars should have, even for the guy who only ever cruises to the ice cream stand or beach.

I'm sure there will be different opinions, but an early or mid '60's steering column will look good. Al

Any wide 5 ball joints kits you recommend? 

 

You're on your own there. I was over at a friend's last night and saw a set of Empi 5x205 discs; talking about heavy!

Which is why my first car had CSP wide5 discs(aluminum hub/iron caliper). My new car has Airkewld wide5 discs, which has a two piece billet aluminum hub, both pieces are about 1/2" thick aluminum. The caliper is a Wilwood 4 piston, SUPER light. 

Both kits have iron rotors, but that's expected. 

That EMPI/Socal kit is ALL IRON, all of it. REALLY a boat anchor on each corner.

TJ Ward posted:

Who has wiring kits? Vintage said no. and seals for the back of bee hives and front grilles? 

I have bought at least 20 Vintage Speedster harnesses over the years very easy to install but need to add grounds for gauges, lights etc.                                                  Buggy aftermarket harnesses are el cheapo's in quality.  You can also use a universal street rod 8 -10 circuit harness All you'll need to do is unwrap the harness and move the front engine wires to the back of the harness and rewrap. 

I'm going to move to rural Hawaii and start a company building high-performance (but old-school looking) engines for speedsters. I'm thinking of calling it "VintageSpeed Motors for Your Cars" (VintageSpeed MoFoCars for short).

There should be no confusion whatsoever. After all, my company will be in the Gardens of Hawaii, and the work will be done by two guys named "Scott" and "Dale", not in Hawaiian Gardens or Scottsdale.

who would you have fill this order? 

Wiring Kit
Front turn singles x 2
Front horn grilles x 2
Singles and grille seal x 2
hood handle w/ seals
Headlight bucket to body seals x 2
Rear tail lights BeeHives x 4
Rear Reflectors x 2
Deck Lid grille w/ seal
License plate light shine down
Outside Door handles left & right w/ seals 
Inside door handles
Plastic thing for in between inside door handle and door cards. 
Dash handle 
Dash trim
rear view mirror
Ignition
Side trim
Bumper deco
Side deco

 Think i might go with real 356A gauges

Just remember that the A&B tachometers were mechanical (cable driven) and not electronic so won't work "off the shelf" with a VW engine.  You'll have to go to a '65 356C to get an electronic tachometer (and the faces are different) or have the early one converted to electronic (more $$$).  Plus you may be replacing 6v for 12v bulbs on gauges too.

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